If you look at the bolt, you will notice that it is 'L' shaped with two spring legs. The leg on the inside toward the hammer, rides up and over the "D" cam on the hammer, which causes the bolt to drop and unlatch the cylinder. If it drops too soon, the bolt will wear a line between the bolt slots on the cylinder. If it drops too late, an overly long hand or even one the right length, applied with vigor (in cocking) can cause the cylinder to over rotate and not lock up properly. The tension between the legs and the frame and hammer is critical. Too snug can cause excessive wear on the bolt and the hammer cam. Too little allows the bolt to slip the cam. If the hand is too long, it can prevent the hammer from being fully cocked, can prevent the cylinder from locking properly, and if too short can also fail to rotate the cylinder enough to allow it to index and be locked up properly.
The thing is, you have three things that are inter related and can cause timing problems, and to some extent affect the operation of each other. The surfaces and edges of each of the legs and the cam also need to allow proper function without excessive wear. Some of the imports have excessively hardened bolts and soft hammer cams, which leads to a chewed up cam in short order. Then the hammer needs to be replaced, usually because the cam is not replaceable.
Don't know if this helps or muddies the water. I suggest that you get one of the many books written on the subject.