Best method for removing Ruger 'bible'? PIX ADDED at end

Irish Dave · October 24, 2006, 08:13:36 PM

Have files, sandpaper, grinders, access to a lathe, (even backhoe and jackhammer).

Seriously, suggestions please. Getting ready to cut and recrown stainless barrel. Figure I might as well de-bible it while I'm at it.

Much obliged.

Major 2 · October 24, 2006, 08:22:11 PM

Many a "Black Powder Only" on Remingtons has fallen to my Mill Basterd file,
And a few lawyer BS dribble yarns on Rugers.
Card the file often to reduce build up and polish with 250 , 500 and finish with 600 wet/dry and keep them wet.
Avoid filing flat, follow the couture
You will still need to buff with buffing wheel & Ruse

Irish Dave · October 29, 2006, 08:17:41 PM

Much obliged, Major. I can do that.

Anyone else have a method or is Major's recommendation the universal procedure?
Any suggetions for using the lathe to remove this while I'm cutting and recrowning the barrel?
Thanks to all.

Major 2 · October 30, 2006, 05:33:02 AM

hmmmm ! I suppose you could turn the barrel about .003 should be enough to get to the bottom of the writting.
Then polish right on the lathe.

Delmonico · October 30, 2006, 07:49:08 PM

Either one should work, or ya could rebarrel it with a custom barrel.

Sorry Dave, just felt onery.

Irish Dave · October 30, 2006, 09:31:58 PM

No problem, Del. Some say I can get in them moods myself on occasion.

Seriously, thanks, guys.
I'm getting ready to turn a 5.5" SS .44 mag Vaquero into a 3" traditional ejectorless sheriff's model for .44 Russian ctg. After the conversion, I think I'll add some bone grips and have her envgraved to match a .45 Colt RV I did last year.

When I converted the B/CCH .45, I didn't de-bible the barrel. At the time, I didn't think it would bother me and would actually show what had been done. Big mistake.

Bugs the crap outta me.

Now, I'm getting ready to do this .44 and won't make that error again.

Again, Major and Del, I appreciate the tips.

Montana Slim · October 31, 2006, 11:59:50 AM

Dave,

Agree with suggestion to use the lathe. I'd be tempted to put a slight taper on the barrel at the same time. Finish with fine sandpaper while on the lathe.

Best luck!
(And..post a pic when finished)

Slim

Irish Dave · October 31, 2006, 12:25:39 PM

Thanks, Slim.

Quote(And..post a pic when finished)

I'll be glad to. Although this is kinda a winter project and don't know how soon I'll get her all finished. (But definitely before shooting season starts next spring).

BTW, who makes the best aftermarket spring kit for the RV?

RRio · October 31, 2006, 12:41:20 PM

You definitly want to Check your barrel for taper. Most do have a slight taper that is barely noticeable until you take a pass on the lathe, and then you have trouble.

Irish Dave · October 31, 2006, 02:00:42 PM

RR:

Know what you mean. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on it. Thanks.

Ottawa Creek Bill · November 03, 2006, 05:31:42 PM

Dave,
If your lathe has a taper attachment, just figure the taper and run it towards the tailstock. Take off about .001 the first pass to check the taper and to see that you are getting an even cut. Use a lathe dog to hold the barrel. Like Major 2 says, .003 should to the trick. Polish while in the lathe...much easier to do that way.

Bill

Steel Horse Bailey · November 26, 2006, 11:34:09 PM

Hi, Dave.

I did mine by hand. It was a bit easier 'cause mine is Stainless, so I didn't have to worry 'bout re-bluing. I started with the file and 80 grit paper method and worked on up to finishing it with Crocus cloth, then buffing.

The lathe method w/ slight taper would certainly be more professional, but .003" WOULDN'T have taken all the lettering off, since it was hit (stamped) slightly tilted, so the lettering near the bottom of the barrel was deeper than on top. Probably .005" to .010" or so. The lathe method also assures that a new sight is needed and also disassembly from the frame - as well as re-assembly and the associated sighting challenges ... that WON'T be done by Ruger, since the warranty will be voided.

I did mine in my workroom and it took 6-7 hours work. That time included re-shaping and cutting down my front sight to make it right with my bullets.

Irish Dave · November 27, 2006, 08:56:12 PM

Thanks all. I'll post some pix when it's all finished, but so far here's what's happened.
Remember this project is taking a 5.5" SS RV and converting to a 3" ejectorless sheriff's model.

1) Removed ejector rod and housing.
2) Removed swell on the frame where the ejector rod housing fit, recontoured and polished frame.
3) Shortened cylinder pin.
4) Thinned trigger to more Colt-like style.
5) Removed barrel. Cut to 3" and removed Ruger "bible." Repolished and recrowned.

Yet to go:
1) Removing original front sight from barrel scrap for reuse.
2) Will take barrel, sight and frame to Indy gunsmith Eric Woods who will mill new front slot, solder front sight and boresight revolver.
3) Send all to engraver Phil Montarsi for engraving.

As far as the de-bibling, it went like this (all on the lathe):
1) Chucked barrel on threads in brass collet.
2) Cut to length.
3) Recrowned.
4) Started with large medium-fine cut file working in long, smooth, even passes from rear of barrel to muzzle, maintaining the taper.
5) After removing lettering, (much deeper than .003, FWIW) used finer file, then 150 grit, 220, 400, 600, 00 steel wool and finally polishing compound/rouge.
6) Revoved from lathe and hand polished with Autosol.

Looks darn good if I do say so myself. Much obliged to all for their help and suggestions.

Irish Dave · February 26, 2007, 06:30:48 PM

Promised I'd add a photo when the project was finished, so here it is in a mid-1890s style skeleton rig I made up for it. This shot was also used as the cover photo for the Jan/Feb issue of The Shootist, which is the bi-monthly magazine of NCOWS, along with an article about the transformation.

Here goes:

RRio · February 27, 2007, 01:03:03 PM

That is gorgeous, Irish Dave. Really something to be proud of!

Irish Dave · March 02, 2007, 08:18:32 AM

Thanks, Rawhide. Much obliged.

Marauder · March 09, 2007, 01:28:49 PM

That is a great job!

Did you find out about springs?

I generally use Wolff
http://www.gunsprings.com/

Irish Dave · March 09, 2007, 08:12:12 PM

Thankee kindly, Marauder.

Yep, I ordered the set (17, 18, 19 lb) of mainsprings from Wolff. Ended up using the 17 pounder and I think I even removed about a coil from that. Seems to work very smoothly (not overly light, to my way of thinking) and hasn't failed to pop a cap so far -- CCI's or Winchester's.

Steel Horse Bailey · March 25, 2007, 12:12:46 PM

Really nice Dave!

And the article was great, too. I'm sure you will, but PLEASE bring it to the range so we can ALL drool

on it!

I'm looking forward to the article about you making the holster, too.

Irish Dave · April 06, 2007, 10:33:24 PM

Thanks, Jeff. Much appreciated.

Yep, I'll be bringing her to the next shoot if the world ever stops conspiring against me to keep me off the range this spring.

Oh, BTW, I finally found some bone slabs recently and should be finished maiking her a set of white bone grips tomorrow. I think they're gonna look cool.