Need help

[Ned Christy]

I want to make a pair of slim jim style holsters for my 62 Colts and I've noticed that many of the early originals have copper rivets attaching the belt loops. Without lining the holsters how do you prevent scratching the guns?

Ned

[knucklehead]

there a a number of ways to fix this problem.

the best way is to countersink the backside of the hole for the rivet. this will cause the rivet to sit below the surface of the leather and not hit your handgun. Nolan Sackett's video on holster making shows this step in detail.

another way is to cut a very thin patch of leather that you would glue over the backside of the rivet. be sure to use very good glue for this step. you dont want the patch to work loose due to handgun being holstered and drawn.

I would go with the countersinking method. you just use a french edger or something that will work. just cut out the leather similar to what you would do when countersinking a screw in woodworking.

hope this helps.

[Slowhand Bob]

I do know that better and more experienced crafters than I have and do use this method but I have just never felt comfortable with it.  If you are set on using exposed rivets inside your holsters do try to use a couple of extra precautions,  I'll bet the top hands do.  Do keep the leather thick enough to get a good countersink without weakening the affected spot.  A good countersink would be required to prevent the rivet from becoming exposed after the leather fibers compress from possibly heavy usage.  Try every possible design trick at your disposal to position the rivets away from where the gun rubs or rests while developing your patterns.  Last, but not least, use solid copper or brass rivets, not the plated steel ones.  Back in the mid sixties I made a free holster for a friends brand new Ruger Super Blackhawk.  Knowing little about the basics of designing the leather to the gun, I placed a big ole line 24 snap, safety strap, right on the center of where the cylinder would slide to a rest.  Boy was he unhappy after a few uses.  Never forgot that lesson as my price to reckon up was high.

[Nolan Sackett]

all good advice - I use the copper rivets with burr in size 14 as were most of the originals (Hidecrafters leather carries them) - as noted by KH I countersink them slightly - one method I use is take a 3/8" woodworkers spade bit and turn it by hand - as long as you don't go more than 1/2 the depth of the typical 8/9 oz leather you won't weaken it appreciably - the top grain aka smooth side to about a depth of 1/3 is the strongest part of the leather.

Finally placement of the rivet on a Slim Jim Loop like pictured below (a 2 1/2" wide loop) is generally in an area where the rivet won't touch anything other than possibly the barrel while holstering/unholstering and if it's solid copper it won't scrathc although it may leave a rub spot........then again like famed holster smith Thad Rybka  says - if you want to keep the finish on your gun pristine leave it in the box...

[Ned Christy]

Thanks, everyone - I appreciate all the advice. I thing I'll try the spade bit to counter sink for the rivet. Thats probably the easiest for a comparative beginner.

Ned