Old Model SAA frame and Pre-War frame ??

[Marshal Deadwood]

The SAA's with the barrel pin retaining screw were the first production? How long did this feature last before they went to the spring croos pin?
Is there a 'weak' feature to the barrel pin retaining screw or was it just an advance in enginering?
Cimarron is out of the standard pre-war Model P, but have the old frame with the barrel pin retaining screw. I would be happy with this, unless there is an inherent weakness in having the early 'old frame'.
Whats ya'lls thoughts?

Marshal Deadwood

[St. George]

Until 1896 - after it was found that the retaining screw could back out and become lost and the spring-loaded cross pin held.

Some find that the early style is perfect for them, and prefer that particular aesthetic - others do not - so advice can't be given either way.

Scouts Out!

[Marshal Deadwood]

St. George, thank you sir. Im a bit of a 'authenticy nut', so iv got till tommorrow to ponder this. I think 'right' now, I will go with the Old Frame instead of the Pre-War for 'historic sake.' I appreciate you giving me the dates on the screw vrs the cross-pin.
Im learning all the history yet and such advice is very helpful sir.

Marshal Deadwood

[Frank Dalton]

Marshal Deadwood,

An additional bit of information...

The Old Frame is also known as the Black Powder frame, and usually is accompanied by a "Bullseye" ejector.

Like any other screws on a frequently fired firearm, all need to be checked once-in-a-while to make sure they have not loosened up.

I have revolvers with both frame types, but specifically bought black powder frame USFA SAA's for my persona's late 1870's to early 1880's time period.

[Abilene]

Howdy Marshall,
The Cimmy guns commonly come with a knurled screw installed which can be easily installed or removed with the fingers, but inside the cardboard compartment in the box should be a little plastic bag with a period correct slotted-head screw which is more aesthetic as well as authentic.  In my opinion, the slotted screw, properly installed, is less likely to back out than the knurled screw.  "Properly installed" is the main issue.  With the two-position cylinder pins, the pin must be in preciscely the proper position so the screw is perfecly aligned with the 2nd groove in the cylinder pin, or the screw will get loose from firing.  The easiest fix for this is to grind off the rear 1/8" of the cylinder pin.  This removes the "italian safety feature" and allows the gun to be fired with the cylinder pin pushed all the way in (just like the originals, and looks better as well).  And when the cylinder pin is pushed all the way in, the front groove in the pin is perfectly aligned with the lock-down screw.

[Galloway]

I also find removing a fouled basepin easier with the front screw setup. It frees up a hand to turn the cylinder when pulling on the pin.