conversion s in a Real remington

Tubac · October 27, 2006, 09:57:54 PM

Has anyone tried a conversion cylinder in a real remington New model army?
Just curious as I shoot one with a modern percussion cylinder. I have no idea who the maker of the cylinder is, but it just fits my NMA like a glove.

Tubac

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · October 28, 2006, 11:51:43 AM

Tubac; I have a line on a real Remmie. I'm wondering how to get it going if I buy it.

Does anyone have any tips on which cylinder, C & B, or conversion, fits best?

ColonelFlashman · October 28, 2006, 06:20:27 PM

Fit really isn't the problem, as most All Repro '63s are on average an 1/8" smaller over-all in size due to the way they are manufactured, as timing it would be the major question.

My question is why would you wish to fit a New Manufactured Steele Cylinder into an Original Frame that is Only a Few levels above Wrought Iron in Quality?

Especially if you decide to shoot "smoke-less" powder in it as I believe is the reason behind the question in the 1st place.

Because the stress factors involved would completely Abuse that Frame & Bbl. leading to failure of the original parts in short order, as the Modern Powder "least effect" is the errosion of the Softer Metal of the Forcering Cone (as in being eaten away) due to the Intence Heat from stated modern powders.

Tubac · October 28, 2006, 07:39:14 PM

I frequently shoot a New model Army # 42882. It is in fine shape mechanically, but the finish is gone. I use a new repro cylinder, and have had no problems with the timing. I shoot 17 grs. of German FFG with a lubed wad, and would never use smokelesspowder. While i don't shoot this everyday, I've had no problems.
A lght load like this has not harmed the frame or barrel, and I don't see why a lightly loaded black powder cartridge in a conversion cylinder would harm a mechanically sound old revolver.
Tubac

ColonelFlashman · October 28, 2006, 11:48:43 PM

You, like a few others have been lucky, as most of the time when fitting a new cylinder, a timing issue has to be worked out.

You didn't state originally that you were only loading "FF" powder loaded rounds & most that do as you did usually are doing so, so that they may load "smoke-less" powder because they do not like the mess when having to clean their hardware afterwards.

Though if you are using "FF" powder there really shouldn't be a problem, just be cautious when loading "light" B.P. loads, as you do not want air gaps in the case, which brings up another entirely different issue.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · October 29, 2006, 01:32:30 AM

IF I buy the Remmie, It could only be for the black sensation, besides the collectors experience!. I am not a collector, and have fired everythingI own, except the Uberti engraved 1862 Police. The reason for a new cylinder is so fresh tubes could be used. I've heard the originals were threaded differently. I have a Pietta already.

Flashie; How do you get "air-gaps" in a C&B cylinder? I thought the REAL Flashman was a real man, not limp wristed!

ColonelFlashman · October 29, 2006, 01:29:12 AM

I was Writing about the Cartridge Conversion Cylinder for the REMINGTON & loading light for the cartridges and it is possible to accidently get an air gap when light loading a percussion weapon, as well as in FF/FFF loaded cartridges.

If you re-read my message, you'll see that I Used the word "case" in my statement.

By not getting it compressed enough because you are not paying enough attention or not using enough of what-ever you are using as filler.

Shooting w/ a Limp/Weak Wrist & Bent Elbow is the Only exceptable style in which to shoot these firearms, Mountebank.

Tubac · October 29, 2006, 11:37:32 AM

Sir Harry,

Thanks for the reply. I have always felt that it would be "bad form" to shoot smokeless.
The Schuetzen brand powder cleans up were nicely with minimal work.
Here's photo of he Remington in question.
Tubac

Marshal Will Wingam · October 29, 2006, 04:20:24 PM

Fine gun, Tubac. A little antiquing and that cylinder would look like an original.

Tubac · October 29, 2006, 06:41:01 PM

Marshall,
I believe you're right. What would you do? Strip and brown the cylinder?

Tubac

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · October 29, 2006, 09:41:20 PM

Tubac; I think there is a sticky in GUNSMITHING, above, about antiquing.
Flashie; Weak wrists (the shooting style I mean!) are why the Bisley grip was developed. I hate "Air gaps" too. Thats why I mouth off a lot!

Halfway Creek Charlie · November 06, 2006, 04:04:10 PM

YEPPER!
and you might want to look at Kirst Uberti Conversion cylinders or R & D for Uberti's as I think these will fit without much tuning required. Those made for Pietta's might be too long.
Uberti Conversion cylinders work in Euroarms/Armi San Paolo Repro's also.

I cut down a Pietta Kirst Conversion cylinder to fit my Uberti '58 Rem. Revolving Carbine and it works like it was made for it and the Uberti Kirst I have works in the carbine just as well. I had to flat file the length of the Pietta Kirst cylinder to approx 2 in. in length. I flat filed and measured a lot with dial calipers to get it straight and the proper length. Both also work well in my Euroarms/ASP (4 of them) 58 Remingtons.

James Hunt · November 30, 2006, 06:45:08 PM

My original Remington was proabably made in early 1864, very nice gun in outstanding condition. All original as far as I can tell. To the point, I have a RandD cylinder which is made for a Uberti. It does drop into the original gun without difficult. Cycles perfectly and appears to lock up alright. But there are two problems. The chamber does not line up with the bore, stopping a little ahead of it, and the hammer will not contact the firing pin as the hammer face is slightly wider than the cut out in the clylinder. Not that I wanted to use it I just dropped it in to see if it would work. It is a nice piece of work by Kenny Howell but the Uberti I bought for it is a piece of junk (another story).