M-1860 Spencer Extractor question

Two Flints · September 15, 2006, 03:29:56 PM

Hello SSS,

I am in the process of refurbishing my recently acquired original Spencer 1860 Model. My receiver has the screw hole for the blade extractor (on the left side). I installed the extractor blade with screw, but is that it? Is there a spring of some type needed and how/where is it installed?

I've been doing this refurbishing process by using photos from the Marcot book. Are there more parts involved than just attaching the extractor blade to the receiver with this one screw?

Two Flints

Tuolumne Lawman · September 15, 2006, 04:16:22 PM

Pard,

Some of the later blade extractors have a spring that returns the extractor blad forward a bit to facilitate single loading. I think this was a post 1865 thing, though one of my two 1860s that I had did have this spring.

Bernie

Trailrider · September 15, 2006, 06:23:38 PM

Howdy, Pard,

The 1860's generally had the blade extractor just loose, no spring. You have to be a bit careful that the rim of the cartridge doesn't slip past the blade. More of a problem when single-loading than when operating from the magazine. This isn't too much of a problem with cartridge rims approaching or equal to the originals. Some modern central fire cartridges made for the .56-50 or .56-56 MIGHT...emphasise...might...be too small in diameter. I made my central fire cartridges fpr use with the S&S breechblock, from .50-70 brass by turning down the rims to .643-.645". The brass was shortened to 0.998"- 1.002". If you can locate a heel type bullet you can avoid inside reaming of the case neck. If not, you may have to obtain an inside neck reamer that is .525" dia. The cases should be full-length resized in a .50-70 die before reaming. I had a reamer made up with a long tapered nose so as to NOT produce a shoulder inside the case where the base of the bullet will go.

It has been my experience that most of the 1860 model Spencers, especially the carbines, have a tapered bore that measures .545" at the breech end, tapering to .535" at the muzzle. Fortunately, the rifling uses 6 lands and grooves, so it isn't so hard to measure the actual diameters. Bullets of .535"- .538" will work.

Hope this is of interest. Of course I always DISCOURAGE the shooting of such antiques, which, after all are more than 145 years old, and the receivers are not really steel, but actually what we today call wrought iron!

Bead Swinger · September 15, 2006, 07:49:44 PM

Trailrider and Tuolumne Lawman are right. The 1860's were VERY simple, with just a blade and a recessed screw. If you look at the S&S catalog, they list all of these parts for the 1860.

I believe this wasn't augmented until the 1865, which added the spring to keep the blade forward for single loading. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the last of the M1860's wound up with some spring prior to the M1865, but these might have been post-war modifications. 'Don't know. If someone actually comes across one of these, then I'd love to hear about it.

But for getting your 1860 up, just get the blade and the screw. For single shooting, remember to keep the barrel down when you eject the spent shell, and if you're single shooting with a loaded magazine, then learn where to stop the lever to keep the round from feeding.

'Love to see pictures of your beauty when you get her back together. What's the SN? 'Would love to hear more about that lovely Spencer Shotgun.

Beadswinger
1860R 23954

Two Flints · September 16, 2006, 07:28:18 AM

Beadswinger,

Can you describe the movement of the extractor when you drop the lever down to chamber a round? Working my lever down I can see the tip of the extractor moving from front to rear, or should it be completely hidden from view. It seems to disappear in a slot at the front of the receiver at some point in its travel when the lever is in the closed/up position.

Have nothing to go by or compare my original to...in terms of its internal parts or action.

Thanks,

Two Flints

Major 2 · September 16, 2006, 08:55:58 AM

On mine, there is no spring... It rises with the block and protrudes above the receiver (..."Working my lever down I can see the tip of the extractor moving from front to rear"...

the curve of the blade guides the rim/shell back ... the tip is about 1/8" above the receiver for an instance or two....
then drops away to follow the upper block on return it rides with the block and go into a slot on the receiver as you describe.

!

Two Flints · September 16, 2006, 09:55:32 AM

Major231,

Thank you, my extractor functions as you described it...received your check today, and your insignia will go out tomorrow or first thing Monday morning!

Two Flints

Arizona Trooper · September 27, 2006, 10:06:20 PM

The extractor spring first appeard in the 1865 model, but M-1860s that were rebuilt and sleeved to 50 caliber at Springfield will have it. Edward Stabler invented the helper spring for single loading with his magazine cutoff. If the M-1860 extractor gets on the wrong side of a cartridge rim, it will jam the action open, and you usually need a cleaning rod to pop the round back out. THe spring makes that a lot more unlikely. If you are going to single load in competition it's a good idea to get an M-1865 lower block and install the spring. S&S has them fairly cheap. I did it with my rifle (carefully saving the original).