Trouble with Uberti '58 and R&D Cylinder.

[Grapeshot]

Don't take this wrong, My Remington works right well with smokeless, but shoots a might high.  My load has been 6 to 7 grains of Unique and a 200 grain bullet.

I've gone and tried Black Powder and a hollowbased .45/165gr bullet and can not get the cylinder pin to move when I want to reload the cylinder with .45 Colt brass.

I've tried a manner of lubes and it's still stuck after a cylinder full of BP.

Any Sugestions?

[sundance44`s]

well.. easyest fix if ya don`t mind a little lube on yer fingers .. i put a dab of crisco over the top of my first 2 holes .. its enough to keep things lubed up real nice ..and i pull the cylinder out between loads .. so i always wipe the cylinder face too .. if ya have horses or know someone that does .. the worm med dispencer is a great way to keep yer cisco ... just fill`em with the crisco when empty ..and save the little caps to seal `em back up when finished ..you can squirt in the crisco with ease useing these things not near as messy as useing it out of the can .  I use this method with the ball cylinder and my R&D drop in conversion 45 lc . gotta keep the fouling soft on the remmies .

[Oldelm]

Grapeshot........what Sundance says, and with cartridge I like to use big lube bullets. I use the JP-45-200 alot in my'58 Rem  R&D conversion.

http://my.net-link.net/~napfn/jp45-200.html

I cast my own and load them in the .45LC and .45 Schofield case. You do need some kinda lube on the bullets when shootin BP cartridge, and the big lube bullets are designed quite well for that. I take a small plastic squirt visine bottle (contact lens cleaner) out with me and put ballistol/water mix in it. A drop on the cyl. pin just in front of the cyl. really helps keep that pin lubricated so it pulls out easily, and then can wipe it, if necessary, when reloading the R&D. It also helps to polish your cyl. pin to make it smoother operating. I use 400 grit, then 600 grit wet/dry black paper to polish it. Some folks even put grooves in their '58 Rem cyl. pins to help with fouling, but I haven't done that yet.

[sundance44`s]

Another thing i can add to the problems pards have when switching to B/P from the heathen modern powders ... when you clean your guns .. look and see whats in the oil you are useing on the B/P guns .. this is really important too .. if yer gun oil has a petrol product in it .. not good it turns sticky as soon as B/P hits it // shooting the black stuff requires different handleing .. use some type of food grade oil for your finishing gun cleaning work .. i use only wd40 and don`t have the sticky problems with it even though it contains some petro probally because it drys up in a weeks time to just a film . products like rem oil will turn sticky .. try useing some olive oil or other food grade ... it will make a difference . i`ve seen some remmies lock up on the first cylinder fired because of this ..  guess thats why i`m a crisco fan after i shoot the first 5 shots , and pyrodex is worse than real black for getting sticky .

[Williewheelgun]

I keep a tube of Bore Butter handy.  I squeeze some down the cylinder pin hole and they never bind up for an entire match.  Started doing that with C and B and found it worked just fine for the conversion cylinders

JMHO

Willie

[James Hunt]

Concur with Sundance 44. I don't shoot alot of c and b and when I do I shoot an Colt 1860 army, just got an original Rem so maybe I'll be fooling alot more with it. Anyway, I shoot a whole lot of BP cartridge in all calibers, and alot in .45 Colt in pistols. When I clean I just use water, I take the cylinder of the gun out and hose it in the sink and then drop the thing in a small jar of olive oil, let sit a minute while displaces all water. Done. I dry the pistol barrel and frame and smear a 50/50 mix of tallow and beeswax all over and down the bore, drop cylinder in Done. I have never, ever, had any problems shooting any amount of rds out of pistol. I never put any petrolium type oil on anything I own. I have never, ever, seen rust develop on any gun. Oh, you do need to take some -OH and wipe the olive oil out of the cylinder before shooting but that is it.

I think bore butter is a good product, but why pay the price. It is not better than the tallow/wax mix. That can be purchased from Dixie as a product they call Old Zip for two dollars a can. It will last you a couple of years. You can even use it as a lip balm on a sunny day. The olive oil can be reuesed again and again. You can even use type F transmission fluid instead of these two if you want, it is cheap and parrafin based.

Don't fool with the devil's alchemy - smokeless and petroluem products - stay with those food oils like Sundance 44 suggests. It's what great grandpa used before standard oil came along.

[Grapeshot]

I thoroughly cleaned and degreased the contrary weapon and relubed using Borebutter on the clyinder pin and Ballistol everywhere else.  I had my little squirt bottle with a mix of Ballistol and water and that carnsarned pin's still getting stuck.  Have decided to keep a nylon faced hammer with me when I go to shoot this Remington so I can beat it out of the frame to remove the cylinder to reload it.  I'd rather use the R&D Cylinder than go back to the Percussion cylinder, but I just might.  I HAD LESS TROUBLE WITH IT!

I'm using Borebutter because I got a deal on several tubes of it.  I've also made up a batch of my own recipie that seems to work just as well.  It consists of Bees wax, Crisco and Vegtable Oil.

[sundance44`s]

Does your gun ever bind up with the R&D cylinder when just indexing it ...or just after shots fired ? My new R&D drop in took a little fitting ..not a big deal , but it was just a tad bit longer than the cap & ball cylinder .. but i could get it to bind with it just indexing the empty cylinder .

[Grapeshot]

No.  The Revolver does NOT bind up when indexing.  It just refuses to release the cylinder pin after firing.  I may replace the cylinder pin or turn the existing pin in the drill press and remove metal off of the section that fits into the forward part of the frame.  If all that fails, I sell the R&D Conversion Cylinder and scrap the C&B revolver.

[sundance44`s]

I`ve had one with ..lets call it an extra tight cylinder pin .. i thought it would loosen up after a few times out , but it never did .. so i took it out and worked it.. held in a piece of emory cloth , expecially the end where it goes in the hole in the recoil shield , thats where mine was eaither made a little big or else the hole in the shield was made a little small ..but it was a fix , no problems since . sure was getting tired of useing a short piece of wooden dowel to tap it out every time .