Loading Brass Shells

[Dave T]

God has smiled upon me.  The same day I was notified BAC had brass 12 ga shells in stock, which I immediately ordered, I called Huntington Die Specialties and they had one set of the RCBS 12 ga reloading dies to which I said, "I'll take 'em!"

With all this good fortune I am soon to test fire my Beretta double barrel hammer gun, with black powder of course.  Back in my distant pass I loaded Alcan brass shells for CAS matches by gluing the over shot wad in with a few dabs of Elmer's Glue.  This time around I got to wondering if there is something better to keep the weight of the shot from breaking the glue seal, say if a shell got dropped.  That happened to me a few times back in the day.

Anyone got a better suggestion for keeping the over-shot wad in there during handling, or against recoil when the first barrel is fired?

Dave

[Cap'n Redneck]

With brand new 12ga CBC / MagTech all-brass shells I use a piece of fine sandpaper and give it a twist around the inside case-mouth to rough-up the surface a little.

I then use thick 10ga over-powder cards on top of the shot in place of the thin 11ga over-shot cards You'd normally use.
The 10ga cards are best entered into the case-mouth standing on end, and then spun flat by a dowel.

Thick over-shot cards work very well without any glue for CAS-shooting.

For clay-shooting or bird-hunting it is recommended to use as thin an over-shot card as possible, as it will disrupt the shot-pattern the least.

[Abilene]

The only time I've ever had an overshot card let go was when I was using sodium silicate (waterglass) and it would get brittle over time if the shells sat unfired for some months.  Since using Elmers Wood glue, all around the circumference, I've never had one fail.

[Lucky R. K.]

I have had good luck using a 10 Ga. overshot wad glued in place with hot glue.
Lucky 

[Coffinmaker]

DaveT 

Simple, actually.  Don't drop yer Shot Shells  (Snicker Snicker Chortle giggle)

Play Safe Out There

[Dave T]

Builder of Human Shaped Wood Boxes,

Now why didn't I think of that!

But then, when you reach a certain age you find you drop a lot of things.  Can't tell you how many screws I've dropped on the floor of my shop when taking apart guns or putting them back together.  Yea, yea, I know.  Don't take the guns apart.  (smile)

The 10ga wad idea is a good one. Thanks for the suggestion.  Too bad I just bought 1000 11ga over shot wads.  Inflation being what it is I hate to waste them.  And, I've always used regular Elmer's.  Maybe Elmer's Wood glue all around the edge would be more secure.  Have to try that.

Dave

[Professor Marvel]

Builder of Human Shaped Wood Boxes,

Now why didn't I think of that!

But then, when you reach a certain age you find you drop a lot of things.  Can't tell you how many screws I've dropped on the floor of my shop when taking apart guns or putting them back together.  Yea, yea, I know.  Don't take the guns apart.  (smile)

The 10ga wad idea is a good one. Thanks for the suggestion.  Too bad I just bought 1000 11ga over shot wads.  Inflation being what it is I hate to waste them.  And, I've always used regular Elmer's.  Maybe Elmer's Wood glue all around the edge would be more secure.  Have to try that.

Dave

The usual methods of sealing include waterclass ( historically used) , paraffin (also used in the day),
Duco cement, any white glue, woodworkers glue, silicon or latex house caulk, epoxy, hot glue....

I have only used paraffin so far.

I have not tried hot glue yet and I have not stayed at a holliday inn...
But a "ring" of hot glue seems to work for a lot of folks. A few report "I hate hot glue it leaves a stringy mess" ... but I suspect and surmise that they are filling the whole space to the rim of the shell with hot glue.
I cannot fathom that a small ring would leave a mess...

[Dave T]

Prof,

I don't have a hot glue gun (I know, shame on me) but that sounds like probably one of the best suggestions. On the other hand, given the lack of coordination Coffinmaker was giving me a hard time about (LOL) I might well burn myself on the hot glue gun. Getting old isn't the fun I was told about years ago. They lied.  (smile)

Dave

[Coffinmaker]

Well Schucks Dave 

While we're at it.  Some more tidy bites of trivia.  For 12Ga Brass hulls, the Ballistic Products 1044 Plastic Wad fits a 12 Ga Hull like a glove.  I do/did/would cut the petals down for a 1 Ounce Pay Load though.  Worked a treat.  I load 40Gr 2F APP with the Wad fight down on the powder (no compression), dump in the shot and then place TWO overshot cards on top and seat tightly to the shot column.  Works just fine.  AS LONG AS YOU DON'T DROP THE ROUND ON CONCRETE.  If dropped on concrete, the wads will dislodge and the shot goes everywhere.  DO NOT ASK how I just happen to know this fact!!!!

Next tidbit:  When you get sick of sitting the petals down on the 1044 wads, switch to Ballistic Products Spitfire Wad for 1 Ounce pay load.  Also sets right down on the powder.

Neither of my load fill the Hull to the tippy top.  Who Cares.  Doesn't matter at all.  I don't use glue.  The hulls only have to stay together in the box and in my shotgun belt.  Work just fine in a Double gun.  I DO NOT and WILL NOT put a tiny little crimp on the hull mouth.  Just makes em hard to load.

Play Safe Out There 

[Dave T]

Coffin,

Thanks for the suggestions. Knowledge is power...or some such expression

Dave

[Mogorilla]

I have RMC 12 gauge hulls.   I use white clue to finish them off.   You can write the Shot size on the top card in a sharpie, then cover in white glue, when dry you can still read it.   I do this, as 2 shells are home defense shells and would not want to shoot them at targets.  Easy to spot.   I can really recommend RMS shells.  They are stout.   My fancy loading tools are a rawhide mallet, a dowel with a cupped end, a board with a big hole and an ice pick.   Can do 10 in short order.

[Bart Slade]

I just started using brass shells, I have some RMC and some Magtech.   Have already discovered that the RMC's are superior with identical loads.   

I attribute this to (a) the tighter tolerance, which means the components fit very tightly in the RMC's, which means less blowby, and (b) the RMC's use a 212 primer whereas the Magtechs use a large pistol primer. 

I've been using a light blackpowder load - 25gn 2f and .8 oz shot.   Worked fine in the RMC's (and plastic hulls) but doesn't get the job done with the Magtechs.

[Ketchums Clayton]

This is a great thread!