Wedge

[Holsterguy]

How should the wedge fit in cap n ball revolvers? Mine (3 different ones), the end of the arbor hole is well inside the frame hole. Have to drive the wedge in with a mallet and use a drift to get it out.

[Coffinmaker]

There is a differing of opinions.  To give you a definitive answer, I would need to know the manufacturer.  In any case, you SHOULD NOT have to drive the wedge in with a mallet and punch it out with a drift.

I personally would want to inspect the actual relationship of the Barrel to Arbor fit.  Correct that if necessary and then FIT the wedge to the gun.  My personal preference is to be able to seat the wedge with thumb pressure (It will tighten up with firing) and then a light tap with the plastic screwdriver handle.

Yours ALL need work.

PS:  You really need to avail yourself of Larsen E. Pettifogger's tutorials for correcting the fitment.

[Professor Marvel]

Greetings to our new citizen Holsterguy !

Our good friend Coffinmaker is right!

to amplifiy and assist, here is a link to Monsiuer Pettifogers article, which he kindly made public!

https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=63480.0

yhs
prf marvel

[Holsterguy]

Thanks guy , definitely got some readin and work to do.

[45 Dragoon]

Well, Holsterguy,  being no stranger to controversy, I say one need to look no further than Sam Colts own instructions. They clearly say to drive the wedge in, and drive the wedge out.  That causes sufficient force to impart a tensioned fit for the two joined assemblies wich therefore will allow the two assemblies to react as a single assembly when fired.  Leave it to the inventors /engineers to not know the properties needed for their products to function as designed .  .  .   
   If your arbor fits (lengthwise) correctly, the barrel won't bind the cyl with the wedge driven in and you will be able to fire full loads with no worry. At that point, there's no reason to worry about "fitment" of the wedge.  A loose fitting wedge will cause damage to the wedge and the barrel assy.

Mike

[Coffinmaker]

  Ah, Whom said anything about a "Loose" fitting wedge??   

And . . . . in case no one has noticed, it is now some 170 years on down the road since the introduction of the 1851 series of handguns.  Entirely different metallurgy.  There have been some real improvements since Sam's quoted proclamations.  Unfortunately, Uberti's aren't one of them.  It is also not necessary to "drive" in a well fitted wedge.  Firm thumb pressure will do quite nicely.

[45 Dragoon]

Here again, a little disagreement .  .  .   I just did the  "thumb pressure" vs "driven in" test on one of my own .45 Dragoons. It nominally has a .0015"  barrel cyl clearance (because of runout, it has a max .002"  with a min .0015"  in 6 positions measured). It is a designated cartridge gun. The trigger pull is 2 3/4 lbs (pos. engagement) and the hammer draw is 3.5 lbs (slightly heavy because it IS a possible S.D. weapon. Others are just under 3.lbs).

  With the wedge pushed in (actually pounded in with the heel of my hand) the barrel /cyl clearance was a measured .0045" . I did this procedure twice with the same measurement.  With the wedge driven in,  the stated measurements above were observed (again the procedure was done twice).  The wedge has been modified with the shortened spring mounted on the opposite end. This allows the wedge to be "captured"  by the wedge screw.  In other words, the shortened wedge spring pops up behind the head of the wedge screw so that it cannot work loose and obviously won't push itself in further. It's a modification I cal a "captured wedge".  So, when the spring pops up behind the screw head as it is driven in,  I know it is " home".  Taking a measurement with a feeler gauge verifies the setting.

So, strictly in my opinion,  I don't think you can fully seat a wedge with your thumb (unless you're the Hulk), driving the wedge in is the only way you will  "marry" the two assemblies.

Mike