A QUESTION from a Dummy

[Coffinmaker]

First a CAVEAT:  I am not, never have been, and do not resemble a Leather Crafter.  I'm just a jam and fudge user of leather products.  You know, like Holsters .... Gun Belts .... Shot Shell Belts .... Braces ... those kind of things.  However ....

A new gizmo his been perpetrated on us Henry Shooters called a "Barrel Wrap."  A nifty little leather goodie that wraps the Henry barrel to protect our delicate hands from a HOT barrel.  I'm thinking about making one.  EXCEPT:  Leather in contact with steel has been known to cause RUST depending on how the leather was tanned.  SO:

Is leather available that does NOT cause RUST??  Where can I get some??  I don't need a lot.  Piece of fairly thick stuff, about 13" by 18" would be all I would need/want.  I get a punch so I can lace it on.  Maybe.

A little help here for a dummy please!!!!

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Most leathers will tend to fade or remove bluing if left in contact for a long time. That's why you don't leave your pistol in the holster when not at a match.

I expect the lever on my Model 73 rifle to have some color change when I some day take the wrap off it. There might even be some rust if it has retained moisture. But meanwhile I get to enjoy the thing and will worry about that 'someday.'



Most would consider making match guns work optimally is a good thing and if you're concerned about resale, you may want to not do that and just use your rifle with a glove on.

I don't know what leathers are less corrosive to bluing but maybe someone on this forum will know the answer to that.

[Capt Quirk]

It has been said, that chrome tanned leather causes rusting, use veg tanned. It has also been disputed by some, that the first group is full of hot air and that chrome tanned is fine. I'm not sure which side to go with, but I only buy veg tanned, for tooling and dyeing reasons. Google Tandy Leather.

[Silver Creek Slim]

I agree with Marshal Will Wingam's suggestion of using a glove. I shoot a Henry with BP loads and use a glove on hot summer days.

Slim

[1961MJS]

Hi

I don't shoot a Henry, but I would try Deerskin gloves because you can get a smaller size that fits tightly and you might even be able to pick stuff up with the glove on.

Just my $0.02

[Professor Marvel]

Bearing in mind that I am a fan of the Model 1866, I am sure this will sound heretical but ....

what about a home-made wooden fore-end?

yhs
the heretic marvel

[Coffinmaker]

OK,  OK,  OK, ...... Let us understand, I've only been shooting Henry rifles for CA for .. oh about 20 years.  I have four of em.  Three of them are Transitional.  Side loaders with a replica original King's Patent loading gate.  With those rifles, was also offered a nifty little short "slide on" finished and checkered fore stock.  I also have those.  Using a glove for a CAS match is totally impractical.  Following your Handguns, or Shotgun, one has to come to a complete stop, find the glove, put the glove on, then pick the rifle up, shoot the rifle, then take the glove off if being followed by Handguns.  It's much easier to just grip the Henry at the Magazine Tube and be careful.  Or, if the rifle is a Transitional, the nifty little wood fore stock (I have those of course).

So.  Why you might ask, am I interested in a leather barrel wrap???  Just for fun.  I've often thought it would be nifty to do a barrel wrap, make it look like something done way back when (even if "they" didn't) and include it with my remaining stock, 24 inch barrel rifle with a really long spacer stick inna magazine.  Except in the past, said barrel wrap wasn't SASS legal.  Unapproved external modification.  How come I'm thinking about doing it anyway you might ask.

Said "Barrel Wrap" was recently approved by SASS as a safety consideration.  Protecting our most delicate hands from hot barrels as it twer.  (Shooting BP, the Henry barrel do get some hot) and every so often some well meaning near do well will "assist" you carrying your rifle off the line and immediately drop it (has happened twice).  Anyway, somebody (not me) went to SASS requesting approval for the Barrel wrap as safety device.  Approved it was.

Since my 24 inch Henry shoots C45S cases, I use a really looooooong spacer for the follower.  Stops it WAY out on the barrel.  Would allow a really looooooong barrel wrap.  Much longer than your average fore stock.  Sort of a "Take That" SASS" sort of thing.  Just for FUN ya understand.

Just discovered the good "Major 2" has posted a glossy of my first feeble attempt at "Barrel Wrapping."  Which I practiced on my 16 inch Henry Trapper.

[Capt Quirk]

Veg tanned buckskin might be more authentic. Just be sure to remove it, after playing, and wipe the barrel down.

[Coffinmaker]

Well, I made a Wrap.  It looks .... BRIGHT .... and kind of hokey.  I need to stain it.  Make it dark(er).  After I stain it, what to use to seal it??  Or just lit the stain dry and use "as is??"

[Capt Quirk]

50/50 mop&glow and water.

[greyhawk]

First a CAVEAT:  I am not, never have been, and do not resemble a Leather Crafter.  I'm just a jam and fudge user of leather products.  You know, like Holsters .... Gun Belts .... Shot Shell Belts .... Braces ... those kind of things.  However ....

A new gizmo his been perpetrated on us Henry Shooters called a "Barrel Wrap."  A nifty little leather goodie that wraps the Henry barrel to protect our delicate hands from a HOT barrel.  I'm thinking about making one.  EXCEPT:  Leather in contact with steel has been known to cause RUST depending on how the leather was tanned.  SO:

Is leather available that does NOT cause RUST??  Where can I get some??  I don't need a lot.  Piece of fairly thick stuff, about 13" by 18" would be all I would need/want.  I get a punch so I can lace it on.  Maybe.

Coffin
I made a holster for my navy repro twenty some years ago - that pistol lives in its holster.
big secret here ------ordinary bark tanned carving leather - SOAK it (n I do mean SOAK IT) in plain ole 30 grade engine oil ---never rust -- this will soften and darken the leather (neither of those a bad thing) but --- take it to the bank it will not rust yr shooter!   

[Coffinmaker]

Well .... I took the wrap off the rifle, shortened it an inch and a half (looked sorta "wrong") and stained it.  I used some "Dark Walnut" wood stain I had laying around.  Letting it dry for a couple of days then I'll put it back on.  Will see how it looks.

[1961MJS]

OK,  OK,  OK, ...... Let us understand, I've only been shooting Henry rifles for CA for .. oh about 20 years.  I have four of em.  Three of them are Transitional.  Side loaders with a replica original King's Patent loading gate.  With those rifles, was also offered a nifty little short "slide on" finished and checkered fore stock.  I also have those.  Using a glove for a CAS match is totally impractical.  Following your Handguns, or Shotgun, one has to come to a complete stop, find the glove, put the glove on, then pick the rifle up, shoot the rifle, then take the glove off if being followed by Handguns.  It's much easier to just grip the Henry at the Magazine Tube and be careful.  Or, if the rifle is a Transitional, the nifty little wood fore stock (I have those of course).

Hi Coffinmaker, good to know.  I shoot GAF with one Schofield and a Krag.  I don't use a glove on the right hand (trigger finger), but could on the left hand.  Don't need it on a Krag.  Using a very tight deer skin glove would be the best way (from what I've seen) to use a glove.  Not to be saying its the BEST way.

Later

[greyhawk]

Well .... I took the wrap off the rifle, shortened it an inch and a half (looked sorta "wrong") and stained it.  I used some "Dark Walnut" wood stain I had laying around.  Letting it dry for a couple of days then I'll put it back on.  Will see how it looks.

oil it mate !!! 30 grade engine oil - soak the thing - never rust yr gun