Richards Type II conversion 44 Special

[riflee]

The 44 Colt has the smallest case rim since it was made fer the 1860 Army Colt. I agree that the arbor fit to the bottom of the barrels arbor hole is important. One other thing that goes with that is the size of the arbor hole diameter/size of the arbor diameter. I've put a small weld on some arbors right under the very beginning of the upper part of the barrels arbor hole(if the cylinder still goes on).      That area is a contact point whereas the barrel will cant down there under the force of the wedge and too much space there makes fer a partial fit of the arbor face to the bottom of the arbor hole. Wouldn't think it possible for the base of the barrel hole to pivot on the top of the end of the arbor but it does.   A very small space between the top of the beginning of the barrels hole and the top of the arbor there is alright.    A space too big there at that spot lets the barrel cant down to meet the arbor. That means the barrel cants up at the muzzle more so the gun shoots a little higher.  The less space between the arbor size and the barrels hole size the better. A slight jump in the arbor diameter right where the beginning of the barrels hole is makes fer a good thing. The Belgian 1860 Colts had the taper there very precisely to stop the barrel right when the barrel met the frame. Some had the bottomed arbor also. I respect that kind of machine work.  Wish I remembered how to show paragraphs with this puter. Might not have anyone read this since the post is old.  Anyway I like a nice snug fit of the arbor in the barrel even if it gets difficult a little to pull the barrel off. I use the loading lever to push the barrel off if need be.  With the cartridge guns I would loosen the wedge and shoot a load to help the barrel loosen up. That's when I use a shim put in at the top beginning of the barrels arbor hole. That takes a little trickery and a little cussing sometimes. 

[riflee]

A person could go over my last post and might not get what I'm trying to say. I could make it a lot more understandable if I simply say.......


I think any gun smith worth the salt would do what actually solves that arbor fit problem. Use a lath and turn out a new arbor that is a close tolerance fit in the barrels hole. Make sure the barrels hole is reamed a little for straightness and smoothness. Make sure the arbor is the right length to be bottomed out.
I think the arbor should be about .002" under the diameter of the barrels hole.


I'm getting at saying the arbor length isn't the only thing that needs to fit well. The arbor has to fit the barrels hole well too. You know....like those two things should merge as they are one.


Making a new arbor and fitting it is a bit of a chore but a good smith with a good lathe can do it straight forward. A good machine shop with one of those wire type cutters(don't know the real name) can make a slot in the arbor perfectly. I had a shop do it for me.


I don't have a lathe,only a miling machine, so I had to look fer some help from a machine shop. The new arbor fer my Navy is a real gem.  If I had a lathe I could start a hobby business being an arbor maker for people wanting the best fit fer the open top Colts.


Hope someone reads this since I think itsheds some light on the subject of scientific propblem solving. You know.....just getting an arbor correctly bottomed is not doing the whole complete job. You need the arbor to fit the barrels hole well diameter wise too.