Tandy belt pattern,

[sfc rick]

So I got the holster and gun belt pattern pack from Tandy Leather. There are 2 types of belts, Buscadero and a 2 1/2" wide curved belt. I'm currently building the curved belt first. I'll use 2 cut pieces of 12oz saddle leather sewn together and add a small section of ridged leather(Black) sewn between the 2 12oz pieces, making 3 layers at the slot area to add stiffness and more strength to the holster slot. Any suggestions before I sew this all up?

[CurlyDrew42]

12oz leather is going to make for a REALLY heavy gun belt.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I might be tempted to make it one layer of 12 oz or line it with some 3-4 oz leather.

[CurlyDrew42]

Personally I like something in the 8 to 9oz area and I back it with a 6 to 7oz milled leather that is super soft and supple and helps to keep your belt from sliding off your hips.  At 10oz I would probably back it with suede or buckskin.  Deer is easier to maintain than suede but it is also more expensive. Tandy's Kodiak hides are great for lining belts too if you go with a 6 to 7oz veg tan as your belt. Just be aware that they are an oily finished hide and you won't have much luck gluing that to veg tan.  Or you can go with a 10 to 12 oz and line it with goat or some mission grain lining.

If you are worried about the loop in a buscadero you can reinforce it with some raw hide between your layers right at the loop.

Just my two cents, leather work is as much art as craft so everyone has different ways of doing things.

[sfc rick]

12oz leather is going to make for a REALLY heavy gun belt.

I never really thought about the weight being any problem. I have built 2 different belts already using double layer 12oz leather glued and double stitched. I like stiff and tough belts that don't give or sag. I'll give this a try and see how it works out.

Thanks for the advice!

[sfc rick]

Well it's off to the saddle and tack shop for stitching. It will be ready for tooling and dyeing in the next day or so. I am still trying to picture in my head what the border stamping will be or which concho's I should use. I'm typically a Texas Star guy, but may opt for using the Morgan Silver Dollar ones for this one. Anyway it's going to be an awesome heavy duty belt that looks nice.

[CurlyDrew42]

Usually you want to tool and stamp before assembly, not after.

[Capt Quirk]

Same with dying, should usually be done before assembly.

[Don Nix]

Ive been building saddles and belts for a few like 40 years and you build em how ever you like. but if it was me, I use 12 to 14oz. saddle skirting and a lightweight 4 0z liner for gun belts and sam brownes.And I generally tool first then assemble and dye. Theres a couple reason for that order but everyone has their own way. What ever works for you but 24 oz. of leather will feel like a steel band around your waist.

[CurlyDrew42]

What ever works for you but 24 oz. of leather will feel like a steel band around your waist.

That is the best way I have heard that described.

[sfc rick]

Thanks for all the advice. I typically just send it out for sewing before spending my labor stamping and have the tack shop possibly bugger up my stamping with machine footprints. But all the same my work is very pleasing to me.

If I ever get a sewing machine, I'll be more than likely to do it your way.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

The solution to machine foot marks is to hand stitch it. I worked in a saddle shop when I was younger and all assembly was done by hand. We did use stitching machines to punch holes on things that a few marks wouldn't hurt. Hand stitching is stronger so we did that so it would last as long as possible.

The advice already given on the order of things is good. I always stamp the designs first. Then, depending on the project, I may dye before or after assembly.

[sfc rick]

Hand stitch a belt? Unfortunately my old hands are unfit for such work nowadays. At least for the amount of time doing a belt, doing holsters are still doable, but not going to try a belt with double stitching on all the pieces.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Yeah, there is that to consider. I remember hand stitching all the way around surcingles. 3/4" thick at the top. It did take a while but they were stout, and had to be because of the abuse they got in circus environments.

[sfc rick]

Well I did it...pick up my first sewing machine in the morning, a used Tippman Boss from my local saddleshop who sews up my belts. Another phase of learning to sew with it one stitch at a time.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That's cool. I haven't used one but I understand they're pretty good machines. Congratulations.

[sfc rick]

Warts and all...completed.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That looks really good. Nice job. That's a perfect match for the holster. It makes a fine rig.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Well done, double stiched and all, nice rich color, just as great looking rig all around...


tEN wOLVES

[Johnny McCrae]

Well done, double stiched and all, nice rich color, just as great looking rig all around

My sentiments exactly