Has anyone ever... (or what was the original stock finish on a Henry!)

[Tuolumne Lawman]

Has anyone ever stripped a Henry stock, stained it, and given it an oil finish?  Does anyone know what finish Winchester used on their 1860 and 1866 rifles?  I have had a couple original 1873s, and both (an 1881 38WCF rifle, and an 1891 44 WCF carbine) appeared to just have had oil finishes on the stocks.

[Will Ketchum]

I stripped my Henry, my 66 & my 73. If I remember right I just scrapped off the Uberti varnish with pieces of glass and then applied tong oil but it's bee over 10 years and I might have used a stripping agent.  I know I've done it with both methods on modern and reproduction guns.
I checked the Madis book, while it mentions stock finishes in chapters on other models I can find no mention of the Henry stock finish. From the pictures they all appear to be oil.  When writing about the 66 he said that rubbed oil was standard but varnish could be special ordered for and extra cost. I would venture to say the same was true for the Henry.

Will Ketchum

[Tuolumne Lawman]

I have Jasco and Formsby's, but they are really harsh.  I may pick up some Citristrip, as I understand you don't have to wear hazmat gear like the other two.  I was actually thinking about BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil).  US WW2 martial arms like my M1 carbine were just soaked in raw linseed oil.  It stays really sticky a long time.  BLO or Tung might be a better choice.

[Coffinmaker]

This comes up every now and again.  Uberti uses a proprietary filler/stain and varnish.  Really thick stuff.

Winchester historical data does not specify what finishes were shipped on specific rifles.  There were several different finishes used.  There was a reddish stain, not quite as overpowering as Uberti's but still red.  Same with Henry Rifles and '66s.  Some were finished with a base Stain and oil finish.  Again, colours aren't specified anywhere.

Contrary to popular belief, Oils aren't actually protective of wood.  Oils don't really seal wood pores.  Oils can be very pretty.  Varnish actually seals the wood pores.  However, regardless of what you use, you cannot prevent annular movement of wood.  No way.  Wood can and will absorb moisture and move regardless.

There actually isn't much that you could choose that wasn't used a some time.  Kinda like "pays yer money - takes yer chances."  I personally like a Satin Spar Varnish without stain.  I like wood to look like itself.  Go for it.

Coffinmaker

PS:  Be really careful with Tung Oil.  Some if it will NEVER ACTUALLY DRY!!

[Tuolumne Lawman]

Thanks Guys,

I have BLO, and have used it on AK furniture, a sporterized No 4 MkI Enfield, several M1 carbines, and more than a few shotgun stocks.  I have used raw linseed oil, and it takes years to dry, and is not water resistant at all.  I used tung oil ofn a sporter rifle 40 years ago, and I do recall now that it took forever to dry.  I also like Watco oils and satin Minwax polyurethane, though that seems blasphemous for a Henry!

[Abilene]

I use Citristrip to strip the Uberti finish off.  You may find that the European walnut they use is very light colored once stripped.  I use Minwax dark walnut stain before starting the oil rubs.  For oil I've used multiple coats of Formby's low gloss tung oil, Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, and even Ballistol, and had good results with all.

[Tuolumne Lawman]

I love Ballistol.  Maybe some dark walnut and Ballistol

[Coffinmaker]

The thing to remember about Stock Finishes ... and it's the same in the Cabinet Making business, the Gunmakers and Cabinet Makers all used what was readily available, cheap, and dried relatively quickly.  Had those folks had Polyurethane, bet your bippy they would have been using it.  Poly is a "tough" finish as opposed to a hard, fragile finish (Lacquer).  A little more difficult to repair, but quite durable.

Coffinmaker

[mtmarfield]

   Greetings!

   Years ago, the Single Shot Exchange had a Stock Finishing Article written
by a gunsmith, wherein he outlined a relatively long process of repeated
applications of varnish mixed with thinner; each application was allowed to dry,
buffed with bronze wool, and then reapplied. After several applications, the
stock would become resistant to minor dings and be nice looking.
   I did something similar with a Cigar Box; whereas it was porous and almost
as soft as Balsa, it became rather hard and durable.

                M.T.Marfield

[Major 2]

Citrus Strip .....

and I humbly offer Skidmore's as your finish.... http://www.skidmores.com/

Wood and Leather  same stuff

[Niederlander]

I've done it.  I think I used Zip Strip to get the original finish off.  (For being so easily dinged it sure is tough to get off!)  I then used Birchwood Casey's walnut stain and Formby's Tung Oil.  Looks much better that the poly stuff to me.  By the way, our local gun shop has an original Henry and it looks to be an oil finish.  Same with the '66 there.