Buttstock remove problem

Started by treebeard, September 28, 2014, 11:44:49 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

treebeard

I am working on my M1860 3 band rifle and having trouble removing the buttstock.  I have removed the trigger guard, lock and
buttplate  but the stock does not slide off. I will not be shooting this one due to the low 4124 serial number and would just like to
get the mag tube sliding in and out without the difficulty I am now having. Any Suggestions?

Two Flints

Treebeard,

I think I posted this before -

The following information will help you in removing the Spencer stock.  Did you do #4?

Removing a Spencer buttstock

(1)   remove lock plate & saddle bar plate, if applicable

(2)   remove trigger plate

(3)   remove butplate

(4)   now you will see a round nut that goes around the magazine tube; remove this, and the stock should slide back off the magazine tube;

(5)   if it won't move, the tube is rusted to the stock, lightly tap the stock and you should get movment;

Hope this helps.

Two Flints
 

Una mano lava l'altra
Moderating SSS is a "labor of love"
Viet Vet  '68-69
3/12 - 4th Inf Div
Spencer Shooting Society Moderator
Spencer Shooting Society (SSS) #4;
BOSS #62
NRA; GOAL; SAM; NMLRA
Fur Trade Era - Mountain Man
Traditional Archery

Blair

I have found some Spencer stocks had a pine pitch or tar applied to the Mag tube housing to help secure the stock to the tube.

Strip everything off of the gun, especially the spanner nut that holds the butt stock to the Mag tube housing.
Use a propane torch to heat up the inside of the mag tube housing. It wont take much heat, just enough to soften the pine resin.
The butt stock should slide right off and back on again with no problem.
This info is based on my experience, I hope it helps.
My best,
Blair
A Time for Prayer.
"In times of war and not before,
God and the soldier we adore.
But in times of peace and all things right,
God is forgotten and the soldier slighted"
by Rudyard Kipling.
Blair Taylor
Life-C 21

treebeard

I'm embarrassed--I did not do Two Flints No. 4---If it does not come off easily then I will try Blair's suggestion.

Thanks for the help.

Trailrider

One of the biggest pains is removing the spanner nut around the butt end of the magazine tube. You probably will have to make a spanner (IIRC...it's been a long time now), I cut both ends out of a steel "tin" can, smashed the body of the can flat and cut it to fit the notches in the nut. I then used a vice-grips to twist the nut off. You may need to soak the nut with Break-Free or WD-40 or some other solvent to loosen up the rusty threads. Hope this helps.
Ride to the sound of the guns, but watch out for bushwhackers! Godspeed to all in harm's way in the defense of Freedom! God Bless America!

Your obedient servant,
Trailrider,
Bvt. Lt. Col. Commanding,
Southern District
Dept. of the Platte, GAF

Blair

Again, based on my experience, the spanner nut may also be held in place with some of the pine resin.
I use a pair of needle nose pliers that fit the spanner notch slots, and a Crescent wench at the hinge point of the pliers to help turn it.
Again, a little bit of heat from the propane torch may help loosen the pine resin that maybe helping to hold the spanner nut on.
Remember, never enough heat to cause burning!
My best,
Blair
A Time for Prayer.
"In times of war and not before,
God and the soldier we adore.
But in times of peace and all things right,
God is forgotten and the soldier slighted"
by Rudyard Kipling.
Blair Taylor
Life-C 21

treebeard

Using Blair's needle nose pliers technique I was able to remove the mag tube retaining nut without making or finding a spanner
wrench that would fit. Thanks Blair!  Tried heating the mag tube but it did not release the resin hold on the tube. Since I was
able to get to several areas of rust and debris buildup and clean the beat up mag tube of it's problems it is now
significantly easier to remove and reinsert. I have now reassembled the rifle and will leave it as is since I now view
it as a historical piece and not a shooter. The work I had to do was replace the tumbler with an original , replace two
broken barrell band retaining springs( used repro's), get the mag tube functioning and finally derust and clean up
without sanding or polishing. i left the period rear sight buckhorn replacement.

Two Flints

Treebeard,

At one time your Spencer was a Civil War "shooter", historically important for that reason, so why not get it into condition so it can be "shot" again . . . after much research, my Civil War Spencer Rifle may have been assigned to a Massachusetts Volunteer Cavalry unit and what I wanted to do most was to get her into "shooting" condition which I've done . . . and now when I "shoot" her, I marvel at the idea that someone back in 1864 shot what I'm holding in my hands.

Just my opinion of course, and I know other respected SSS members will disagree.

Two Flints

Una mano lava l'altra
Moderating SSS is a "labor of love"
Viet Vet  '68-69
3/12 - 4th Inf Div
Spencer Shooting Society Moderator
Spencer Shooting Society (SSS) #4;
BOSS #62
NRA; GOAL; SAM; NMLRA
Fur Trade Era - Mountain Man
Traditional Archery

treebeard

Two Flints--You make some good points. Right now as the rifle sits I have done nothing to make decrease it's originalikty. The
only non original replacement parts are two repro barrell band springs and the period post war buckhorn rear sight( which gives
a nice sight picture). To shoot it I would reline the barrell and many collectors would see that as a major modification and
devalue it.  This is a very early 4,000's serial number and must have seen extensive action in the CW perhaps as early as
Gettysburg. If a future owner wanted to acquire original springs and rear sights he could make it all original he could do so
at his option. With two repro Spencers I can get the enjoyment of shooting these great old designs without fear of an accident
doing material damage to it.
If this was a  M1865 or later I would shoot it in a heartbeat.

Blair

treebeard,

The choice of shooting or not is truly up to you. I respect you for whatever that choice maybe.

I have to ask, what makes you think you may have to have the barrel lined or sleeved? Is it in pretty bad condition?

I have seen some ACW breech loading carbines and rifles with some pretty fuzzy looking bore that have shot well, and still are being shot within the N-SSA.

As for the conversion center fire breech blocks are concerned... these can be set up without making any changes to the originality of your firearm, and changed back and forth at your pleasure.

Just some thoughts on my part.
My best,
Blair
A Time for Prayer.
"In times of war and not before,
God and the soldier we adore.
But in times of peace and all things right,
God is forgotten and the soldier slighted"
by Rudyard Kipling.
Blair Taylor
Life-C 21

treebeard

Blair--The bore has lots of rifling but also extensive pitting. What really concerns me is the amount of deep corrosion of the
chamber area---it is very deep and I have safety concerns that the chamber has been significantly weakened. Since the outside
is so much better than the bore I suspect that the last it was fired and put away it was not cleaned.

I do not believe the NSSA will allow me to shoot with that Buckhorn rear sight--which I like very much .

Blair

treebeard,

I would have to say, in this case, I believe you have made a very good choice.
My best,
Blair
A Time for Prayer.
"In times of war and not before,
God and the soldier we adore.
But in times of peace and all things right,
God is forgotten and the soldier slighted"
by Rudyard Kipling.
Blair Taylor
Life-C 21

Fox Creek Kid

I will assume the Armisport butstock comes off the same way(?).

Blair

FCK,

My understanding is Yes they do.
Remove; Lock plate, Sling bar, Trigger plate, Butt plate and Mag. tube Spanner nut.
The butt stock should slide off.
My best,
Blair
A Time for Prayer.
"In times of war and not before,
God and the soldier we adore.
But in times of peace and all things right,
God is forgotten and the soldier slighted"
by Rudyard Kipling.
Blair Taylor
Life-C 21

© 1995 - 2024 CAScity.com