Some (probably) simple questions from a newbie holster maker

[McCrower]

I would like to try making my first leather holster (crossdraw). I have made a template/pattern out of some leftover flooring stuff. The holster is not going to be a work of art, but it has to function well. So I have some simple things I would like to ask you guys out there concerning working with leather:

1. What is the best type of leather for western gun holsters? Thickness and type..
2. When fitting the gun to the holster; do I moisturize the leather and how much? And then letting the gun stay in the holster for how long?
3. Is there a way to make the leather stiffer?
4. When coloring the holster with fiebings oil dye, do I need to treat the holster with something afterwards?

McCrower
Norway

[Camano Ridge]

Ok, you will probably get some different answers to your question. We all have developed our own way of doing things. Here is my way.  If I am doing an unlined holster I use 10 - 12 oz ( 9-10 oz will work if that's what you have)veg tanned leather. If I am doing lined I usually use two pieces of 5-6 glued together and worked as one piece. If your doing unlined draw your pattern on your leather and cut out the holster. If you are doing lined, draw your pattern on the leather (5-6 or 6-7  oz). Cut out the holster. Turn the leather over, lay your cut out holster on the piece of leather  ( in an area you want to take the second piece from) the leather should be fuzzy side to fuzzy side. Draw a line around
the holster on to the leather you are going to cut. now apply your contact cement inside the line covering the entire area also apply glue to the back of the cut holster. When appropriate (follow direction for the glue) align the two pieces and press together.

Once you have the holster cut out and ready here are the steps I do pretty much in the order I do them. Not right way or wrong way just my way.

Cut out slots for Mexican loops.
Dye-  Before dying I recommend you take a scrap of the leather you are using and dye it, let it dry. This way you  can see if the color is                        going  to look the way you want it or if you are going to have to thin it. Once you have it looking the way you want the color dye the holster. Let it dry 12 - 24 hours.

Here is where you will get some variance. After I dye I oil. Some people use Neetsfoot oil some use olive oil, some use a conditioner. I use Pure neetsfoot oil (not compound). Let the oil migrate through the leather 24 hours.

Lay out your stitch line.

Titch the holster. If you are doing lined holster you will want to stitch the entire perimeter of the holster including the skirt. On a lined holster stitch all areas to be stitched except the main seam area.  When ready stitch the main seam ( I Usually glue my main seam first let dry 12 - 24 hours then stitch the main seam.

Now here is another area the process may vary. I run the holster and skirt under the faucet get it wet it should all look pretty much the same color. Take the holster and tuck it through the loops pulling it so that it is seated where  you want it. Now take your gun wrapped in plastic or what ever steps you are taking to protect the gun and push it in. If the holster seems tight and you have to fight a little bit to get the gun in that is a good thing Keep pushing until the gun is fully seated. Shape the holster to what ever extent you want I usually just do a general shaping no detail molding on western holsters. Flatten the skirt and shape as needed. Let it dry a little bit. Now I take the gun out of the holster and put it in the oven at 170 for about 10 - 15 minutes this helps dry the holster and give a bit firmer holster there are some other things that affect the holster I won' go into those right now. Just letting the holster dry naturally will give you a fairly firm holster as well. Some people use a fan to blow air over it. After the oven I put the gun back in the holster for a while to make sure it has taken the shape then I remove the gun and let the holster dry naturally at least 12 - 24 hours. You should have a pretty well completed holster. However now is when I apply the finish. Some people use an acrylic such as resolene some use other products. I like to use Skidmores leather cream. I let dry 24 hours between applications with a little buffing in between each application.

I know this is a little long winded but hopefully I have answered all of your questions. I am not telling you you have to do it this way this is just my way and my answers to your questions. I hope it helps. If you are on face book you can see some of my work and see how my finished products come out. My FB page is Camano Ridge Custom Leather.

[McCrower]

Thank you so much, Camano Ridge, for your informative reply. Even though I am from Norway, I think I understand the most .

Just so I get this right; do you dye and oil the leather before you run it under water? Can't the water make stains on the leather then?

Thanks!
McCrower
Norway

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[McCrower]

And one more thing; do I have to oil the leather? I have heard that leather becomes softer when using oil on it.. By the way, I have a bottle of neatsfoot oil compound already, to bad I can't use that.

[Camano Ridge]

I dye, oil, stitch and then wet mold. remember you are wetting the entire holster so it should look equal color and should dry evenly. If you splashed water on just part of it then yes you may see some difference. After dying leather tends to stiffen especially using oil (solvent based dyes) . The neetsfoot oil puts some of the nutrients back into the leather. You will still end up with a firm holster. I do just a finger tip application of the neetsfoot oil.  I do not saturate the leather with oil. I have not had personal experience with Neetsfoot oil compound, I only use pure Neetsfoot oil. Neetsfoot oil compound has petroleum products in it and may have an adverse effect on leatherr. However many leather supply companies sell Neetsfoot compound.

[1961MJS]

Hi

I use distilled water to wet the holster, but then the water in Norman OK has a bit too much flavor for me.
I did have a sheath discolor when I wet it with our tap water.

Later

[Graveyard Jack]

You need Chuck Burrows' DVD.

[Professor Marvel]

By all means, get Chuck's DVD , it is a wealth of goodness and knowledgement!

but until then, here are many useful links in the CAS leather forum to useful topics, some of which cover your very questions!
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,13207.0.html

our own Will Gormley's tutorial
http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingHOGRig.html

Brazos Jack's tutorial
http://leatherworker.net/SimmonsHolster.pdf

and three of Chuck's tutorials he offers for free
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/mexloop/_mexloop.html
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_stitchpony.html

have fun, and keep your fingers clear of the sharp stuff

yhs
prof marvel

[McCrower]

Thank you guys. I have to study to my eyes hurt I understand 

McCrower
Norway

[McCrower]

Ok, you will probably get some different answers to your question. We all have developed our own way of doing things. Here is my way.  If I am doing an unlined holster I use 10 - 12 oz ( 9-10 oz will work if that's what you have)veg tanned leather. If I am doing lined I usually use two pieces of 5-6 glued together and worked as one piece. If your doing unlined draw your pattern on your leather and cut out the holster. If you are doing lined, draw your pattern on the leather (5-6 or 6-7  oz). Cut out the holster. Turn the leather over, lay your cut out holster on the piece of leather  ( in an area you want to take the second piece from) the leather should be fuzzy side to fuzzy side. Draw a line around
the holster on to the leather you are going to cut. now apply your contact cement inside the line covering the entire area also apply glue to the back of the cut holster. When appropriate (follow direction for the glue) align the two pieces and press together.

Once you have the holster cut out and ready here are the steps I do pretty much in the order I do them. Not right way or wrong way just my way.

Cut out slots for Mexican loops.
Dye-  Before dying I recommend you take a scrap of the leather you are using and dye it, let it dry. This way you  can see if the color is                        going  to look the way you want it or if you are going to have to thin it. Once you have it looking the way you want the color dye the holster. Let it dry 12 - 24 hours.

Here is where you will get some variance. After I dye I oil. Some people use Neetsfoot oil some use olive oil, some use a conditioner. I use Pure neetsfoot oil (not compound). Let the oil migrate through the leather 24 hours.

Lay out your stitch line.

Titch the holster. If you are doing lined holster you will want to stitch the entire perimeter of the holster including the skirt. On a lined holster stitch all areas to be stitched except the main seam area.  When ready stitch the main seam ( I Usually glue my main seam first let dry 12 - 24 hours then stitch the main seam.

Now here is another area the process may vary. I run the holster and skirt under the faucet get it wet it should all look pretty much the same color. Take the holster and tuck it through the loops pulling it so that it is seated where  you want it. Now take your gun wrapped in plastic or what ever steps you are taking to protect the gun and push it in. If the holster seems tight and you have to fight a little bit to get the gun in that is a good thing Keep pushing until the gun is fully seated. Shape the holster to what ever extent you want I usually just do a general shaping no detail molding on western holsters. Flatten the skirt and shape as needed. Let it dry a little bit. Now I take the gun out of the holster and put it in the oven at 170 for about 10 - 15 minutes this helps dry the holster and give a bit firmer holster there are some other things that affect the holster I won' go into those right now. Just letting the holster dry naturally will give you a fairly firm holster as well. Some people use a fan to blow air over it. After the oven I put the gun back in the holster for a while to make sure it has taken the shape then I remove the gun and let the holster dry naturally at least 12 - 24 hours. You should have a pretty well completed holster. However now is when I apply the finish. Some people use an acrylic such as resolene some use other products. I like to use Skidmores leather cream. I let dry 24 hours between applications with a little buffing in between each application.

I know this is a little long winded but hopefully I have answered all of your questions. I am not telling you you have to do it this way this is just my way and my answers to your questions. I hope it helps. If you are on face book you can see some of my work and see how my finished products come out. My FB page is Camano Ridge Custom Leather.

oven at 170 for about 10 - 15 minutes :  fahrenheit or degrees C??

[McCrower]

Moisturize leather before using Fiebings oil dye, or not?

[ChuckBurrows]

FWIW I always dampen my leather before dying since it will help absorption plus evens out the color - the only caveat is it may come out lighter than desired, but a second or even third coat are easy to apply.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

FWIW I always dampen my leather before dying since it will help absorption plus evens out the color - the only caveat is it may come out lighter than desired, but a second or even third coat are easy to apply.

 I agree with Chuck, he talked about this way back and I listened, it does help give you a more even color...


tEN wOLVES

[ChuckBurrows]

I agree with Chuck, he talked about this way back and I listened, it does help give you a more even color...


tEN wOLVES

and I would have to thank Mr. Al Stohlman for the advice. IIRC the Sohlman's also at times pre-oiled their stock before dying. This works good BUT only of you're using a lacquer or acrylic type finish - other wise the oil as it evaporates will push the dye to the surface and cause rub off.

[McCrower]

Almost finished, just have to dry it up.. Crossdraw holster