Schofield Trigger Jobs Made Easy...

[Tall Dark Slim]

Howdy Folks,
Having tired of the heavy trigger pull my new Uberti Schofield had I disassembled it and investigated my options. My chief complaint was the heavy load in the trigger spring. I set to studying the mechanism and quickly discovered that there is a balanced tension between the trigger spring and the cylinder stop spring. Undetered I set about removing the trigger spring and polishing it down with a piece of XX sandpaper backed by a cutoff wheel. I find this gives good support and helps preserve geometry of parts. I reassembled several times tracking my progress. You do not want to take off too much. I got the trigger to where I wanted it and then encountered hurdle number one: the cylinder stop did not want to go down in half cock. The great spring pressure of the trigger spring was causing this to happen originally, but with the grinding that pressure had been reduced. So I set out to ease the cylinder stop tension. I did a little at a time until it just barely yielded to the trigger spring in half cock. I took the opportunity to stone the trigger surface where the spring contacts. I left the hammer and sear alone as the break wasn't disagreeable.  I reassembled the gun and it functions flawlessly and a whole lot smoother than before. If anyone is interested in the step by step feel free to contact me and we'll discuss it at length.
Good Shooting,
Tall Dark Slim

[Short Knife Johnson]

I wouldn't mind looking into this.  Compared to my oringinal New Model Russian, my Navy Arms Schofield and Uberti Russian have fairly atrocious action movement and triggers.

[Coal Creek Griff]

I improved the trigger pull on my Schofield 100% by lightly polishing the trigger and sear (in several sessions).  The pull is much lighter and MUCH more smooth.  I'm quite certain that a gunsmith could do a far better job and if I polished it more, it might even be better, but I'm erring on the side of caution.  As it is, my trigger pull now feels great and I'm satisfied to quit while I'm ahead.

CC Griff

[Tall Dark Slim]

Amen. I wasn't picky about my trigger break, but the ten ton pull to get there was ridiculous. I have done some work on revolvers before so I was in familiar territory. The single action notch is easy to mess up.

Well now you've done it. I went back and took a look at the break and it needs work. Yay! I get to play with it again!  I'll take picture this time for those who wish to follow along. I believe knowledge is a thing to be shared and it's up to the individual to know his limits.

[Coal Creek Griff]

I was actually amazed at the difference.  I'm far from being a gunsmith and, in fact, I'm not particularly mechanically inclined, but I've attended a number of armorer's courses over the years.  They generally teach you how to swap out parts, but the Ruger Mini 14 course was a little more involved.  Some of those parts require a bit of fitting, so we were provided with some minor tools, including some stones.

I've always been too chicken to stone a trigger or sear, although I understand the principle.  I have a Pietta 1860 Army, though, that had the roughest trigger I've ever experienced.  It made it hard to hit the target and accuracy was a lofty dream.  I finally decided that the worst thing that would happen would be if I ruined the gun and it was pretty much worthless as it was.  So I took my stone, swallowed hard, and lightly touched it up, being as careful as I could to keep the angles right.  I was stunned by the improvement.  I had erred on the side of too little, but it made a huge difference.

That experience emboldened me to try it on my Schofield.  Again, I was extremely careful, but the results were amazing.  As I said, I suspect I could make it even better, but I'm not willing to risk it.  I'm happy with what I have.  The pull is so much smoother that it seems lighter.  I think it is just about right.  

I'm still too much of a chicken to try lightening springs, but what I did made me appreciate this gun so much more.  

Thanks again for your report and I look forward to updates with pictures when you get a chance.

CC Griff

[Tall Dark Slim]

Unfortunately you're going to run into the task of re timing the gun if you take too much off the trigger spring due to the balancing act. I ran into this problem, but I've got a light trigger and smooth action now. I'll post pics tomorrow.

[Coal Creek Griff]

Another good reason for me to stay away from the springs.  I'm actually really satisfied with my trigger pull as it stands.

CC Griff

[Tall Dark Slim]

Whoever said that I'd like my Rugers better than my Uberti was right. I dug all my Rugers out today and they are as nice as the Schofield right out of the box.  Don't get me wrong. I think my Uberti is an awesome gun, but it just feels a little more delicate than my other single actions. I currently want another cylinder stop as I find this one too thin to lock up as tight as I desire. I guess I'll have to rebuild it from the ground up. So I'm shopping for a trigger spring and cylinder stop. To be clear the gun runs as it is now, but I'm a picky one and crave the bank vault lock up.

[Tall Dark Slim]

So far two brave souls have embarked on a path to lighter triggers. I wish them well and can't wait to hear about their journeys.

[Wild_Willie]

Thank you for the info - but I cannot embark on that journey until I get some more time!  

 I am refocusing my time on working up some holsters first.

 I just recently bought my 2d Beretta Laramie and am looking forward to seeing if these trigger mods will work with them.

 The changing out of the barrel latch to RUSSIAN style latches (& fixed sight category) was a simple swap-install - BUT requires some modifications to allow the hammer to hit the primers!

 Thanks again for the info!

~Will

[Tall Dark Slim]

 I believe I last sent pictures to Shortknife Johnson and Wild Willie. Maybe they still have them. I cannot place mine and have since sold the gun off.
Best,
TDS

[rdstrain49]

Found a No 3 Russian about a month ago.  Did a trigger and action job on it.  Then about a week ago I found a Schofield.  Trigger on it was only half as bad as the Russian.  Did a trigger and action job on it as well.  I don't like light triggers.  I don't like triggers that have any creep or let off.  The Russian now has a 5 lb trigger (down from about 20 lb) and the Schofield has a 5 1/4 lb trigger (down from about 10) both break like glass.  The Russian took the longest due to atrocious full cock notch. (cut way too deep and rough beyond belief)  Bench time was a little less than 2 hours on the Russian and about an hour on the Schofield.  So far I have spent more time on the rear sight on the Schofield that both trigger jobs combined.

By way of a short explanation, I've been shooting and working on a New Model No. 3 since the mid 60's. (S&W at one time would send repair parts post paid and free of charge, doubt they do that any more)  I am also an FBI trained and certified Armorer (retired).  Point is I'm very familiar with the No.3s and have the skills to work on them and much more complex weapons.  If your trigger is like mine, crack em open and have at it, help is out there.  Legal Disclaimer:  Don't tinker with guns it could be dangerous, in fact to be really safe don't have anything to do with guns or those who do.  (but who wants to live forever)

[matt45]

I can't say as to top breaks, or other obsolete firearms, but Smith still sends the parts for current production models free.

[rdstrain49]

Who'd a thunk it

[Tall Dark Slim]

Please do not send me requests for information on how to do trigger jobs. Sadly I have lost the pictures and the recollection has faded to the point where I cannot be of help any longer. Please accept my apologies.