SAA Clone doesn't shoot to point of aim

[TUCO-the-ratt]

SAA doesn't shoot to point of aim? Big surprise.

I know this is a common problem and most shooters learn to compensate. I read somewhere that this can only be remedied by time consuming professional gunsmith work.

My case: Cimarron imported Pietta clone in 45 Colt 4 3/4 barrel. This is a beautiful revolver with a baby smooth factory action but shoots about 5 inches left at 10 yards. I can compensate for it but I have to remember that my other revolver shoots dead on and in the heat of competition/target order remembering etc it's another thing I wish I didn't have to remember.

I was wondering if any of you folks have had success customizing the load to compensate for point of impact problems? Or are there any other tricks a guy can do at home to help deal with this problem?   

[Coffinmaker]

To resolve your problem, you will have to start at the basics.  First, run a range rod (howell) down the barrel and insure the chambers line up correctly with the bore.  The rod should NOT hang up on the chamber mouth on the way into the cylinder.  Then slug your bore and verify that your cylinder throats are correct for your bore.  If the bore is .451, throat should be .4515 to 452.  If the bore is 452, throat should be 4525 to 453.  Buy bullets the correct size.

You can correct for elevation to a certain extent by experimenting with bullet weight and speed.  Lotta Load testing.  Or, just find a load you really like that is accurate out of your guns.  Then, take a leather pad, some blue painters or masking tape, with a nice new sharp fie to the range and start working your front sight down if your gun is shooting low.  Shooting high, front sight needs to be built up.

You can't correct for windage with the load.  You correct for windage by having the barrel turned ever so slightly by a gunsmith.  It isn't real expensive and only takes a few minutes.  HOWEVER.  Insure your gunsmith has a barrel vice and a dedicated frame wrench.  Ask that question first.  If he/she doesn't have a frame wrench and barrel vice, find a different gunsmith.
You said your gun is shooting 6 inches left.  As you look down the sights from the REAR, the barrel needs to be turned to the LEFT.  You'll want to turn the barrel about a 32nd of an inch then shoot it.  Go slowly.  Not more than a 32nd at a time.

Coffinmaker

[TUCO-the-ratt]

Thanks for the advice Coffinmaker! I'll give that a try.

[Fox Creek Kid]

As well, shoot it off a bench as many right handed shooters pull shots left anticipating recoil.

[Major 2]

to add ....  hows the trigger ? and where are you pulling it from ?

a simple thing like cradling the trigger in the Distal joint will tend to roll the the hand to the left as you pull the trigger
try to use the distal pad....Shooting right handed that is   

if you are a lefty the oppose is the effect 

[TUCO-the-ratt]

to add ....  hows the trigger ? and where are you pulling it from ?

a simple thing like cradling the trigger in the Distal joint will tend to roll the the hand to the left as you pull the trigger
try to use the distal pad....Shooting right handed that is   

if you are a lefty the oppose is the effect 

I'll try that just to make sure. I'm aware of finger correct position during trigger pull but sloppiness creeps in sometimes.

[Davem]

One trouble with rotating the barrel is in some cases you can notice the sight is off to the side- which bugs me.  I guess you can just compensate for the difference, "Kentucky Windage". On the elevation, as said changing bullet weights can help. I know it sounds backwards but I think heavier bullets shoot higher.  On the side to side- I don't know if any load change would help.

[Fox Creek Kid]

...On the side to side- I don't know if any load change would help.

No, but before having the barrel turned it's best to check the forcing cone as a rough one will make revolvers shoot off. 

[August]

Just open the sight notch by filing on the right side of it.  It won't take much and you'll be on target, and you'll find it easier to see the front sight during a match.  Brownells offers a file made for this purpose -  Swiss Safe File.

[mehavey]

Before filing the notch, have a gunsmith rotate the barrel to where the sight is actually vertical.
You'd be amazed as how many SAA's hit the streets w/o a factory check.** 
(all you need is the sight coming left by 80 thousandths)

**
Ask me how I know this.... 

[Fox Creek Kid]

Before filing the notch, have a gunsmith rotate the barrel to where the sight is actually vertical.
You'd be amazed as how many SAA's hit the streets w/o a factory check.** 
(all you need is the sight coming left by 80 thousandths)

**
Ask me how I know this.... 

You cannot loosen a barrel to adjust POA, only tighten the barrel.

[mehavey]

Let's say I have a fixed sight SAA that shoots right by 7" at 25 yards.
Doing the sight/range geometry, that requires the barrel to be rotated (clockwise/loosened) ~3°

Now I assume that we do have at least that much leeway when a barrel is initally installed/aligned such that mechanical thread compression/tightness is not adversely affected (??) 

[Fox Creek Kid]

It will only loosen more with time & usage, just like a loose bolt on an engine. The only two solutions for the SAA  type revolver barrels are:

1.  remove the barrel & set it back on a lathe to re-index properly. However, this causes the ejector to not fit properly so most...

2.  new barrel.

So, if you need to loosen the barrel to get proper POA then it is far cheaper to tinker with the fixed sights.

[Davem]

Actually I just decided to compensate and leave things alone.