Finding a quality and correct frock coat

Started by Wolf Killer, April 28, 2015, 02:01:00 PM

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Wolf Killer

Hello Lads,
as part of my outfit, I want to add a frock coat. My character lives around 1885.
I see by a number of period photos, that the frock coat is quite prevalent in the western frontier.
The current offerings from some dealers are a cheap cotton blend and unlined

I have noticed a number of wedding rentals selling off period looking frock coats made of wool and fully lined. The price is quite good, but I want to make sure I am getting something that would pass muster. any input on what to look for on one of these ex rentals, like lapels, pocket flaps and buttons?

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks,

DB

River City John

Most common button would be fabric-covered in same fabric as coat. Flaps, if present, should be straight edge and not scalloped. Lapels run the gamut in width, so pick whatever you like the looks.

A nice touch you could do very easily, or have a seamstress do it, is to replace the lapels/collar and pocket flaps with a contrasting fabric color of the same weight as the coat fabric.



RCJ
"I was born by the river in a little tent, and just like the river I've been running ever since." - Sam Cooke
"He who will not look backward with reverence, will not look forward with hope." - Edmund Burke
". . .freedom is not everything or the only thing, perhaps we will put that discovery behind us and comprehend, before it's too late, that without freedom all else is nothing."- G. Warren Nutter
NCOWS #L146
GAF #275

Sir Charles deMouton-Black

I seem to recall that the style for frock coats was unchanged for a couple of centuries. The feature of the style was a fitted shape above the waist and skirts flared from the waist down. There was a seam about where a belt would be.  The so-called frock coats sold surplus by wedding rental shops are straight and without the noticeable waist of a true frock coat.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat


P.S: This is a currently available MORNING COAT, done in 19th Century style. Most of the rentals seem to be in this style. Not incorrect, but way too formal for frontier wear, even for a successful merchant. Perhaps a doctor, lawyer or politician.

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/002611.php

P.P.S: Here is their frock coat, at a bargain price! I just stummbled on this site, so it is NOT a recommendation;

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/vict_mens_44.php

Notice the seam at the waist.
NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, "History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."

Wolf Killer

Hello lads,
Thanks for the input,
One of the sellers I found did indeed have the narrow hour glass shaped coat for sale, I am trying to get better photos showing the lapels and pocket flaps.

I think one would need to buy a size larger to accommodate a gun belt, though, I don't think one would have the need to button it closed.

Thanks DB

Yuma Kid

Wolf Killer,
If the weather is inclement it was common to button up the coat and wear the gun-belt outside the frock.
Yuma
Keep Yer Powder Dry!

NCOWS #L129,  G.A.F. # 767, SASS #31302, NRA Life Endowment, Lancaster County Bounty Collection Agentcy #29

Sir Charles deMouton-Black

NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, "History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."

bear tooth billy

My wife made a frock coat for me a couple years ago. I got the pattern from River Junction, and I had bought a big chunk
of gray wool at a rendezvous for $10, we used black silk for the liner. It ended up be quite an undertaking for her, I
cut out the pieces, I believe there was 57 separate pieces of fabric. So when you look at the price, there is a lot
to making one, I appreciate mine, coat and wife

                                                    BTB

                                                       
Born 110 years too late

OklaTom

Texas Jacks sells a nice Wah Maker wool frock coat that is fully lined.  I have purchased tan, burgundy and black over the years.
"I druther have a pocket full of rocks than an empty gun..."

OklaTom@att.net

Dan Topper

The Wah Maker are not bad, River Junction are more correct though.  For a review of Frock Coat design and differences check out the web site of Denise Nadine Designs. She has a section on historic clothing.  I will try and make a hotlink but not sure I know how if not copy and paste into your browser and review it. http://www.denisenadinedesign.com/Frock%20Coats.htm

Good luck and happy reading.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black

The link works! That is a very good article. 8)
NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, "History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."

Wolf Killer

Hello Lads,
Thanks for all the input on this, as A frock coat will be a part of one of my outfits.
After going through a lot of period photos, I have found that the wearing of Frock coats wasn't left to city folk, or the more wealthy. I have seen photos of all classes of men wearing them, even one during the Oklahoma boom with three men wearing frocks out on the treeles Okie prairie.

So now it is deciding from whom to buy one and how much to invest in a  good lined wool coat.

Thanks again

"I was accidentally shot at an SASS event, and man, did that bullet leave a bruise"

Montana Slim

My wife has made me a number of coats...In fact, I'm running low on closet space to store my important clothes (CAS/WAS).
She's seems to be better with a needle/thread than I am with a shootin' iron....& seems she made me a frock after I rather liked the one she made for my Dad as a Christmas gift quite some time ago.

I suggest careful consideration (as I have) as to what time of year you want to use the coat. Most of your need/desire for the coat may be for warmer late spring, early fall, etc...in which case you'll want lighter weight fabric shell/liner vs. a heavier coat. Of course if your planning on winter use, have at it. Dark colors can warm-up in a hurry, too.

The next general purpose, warm winter coat I plan to have will be a heavy-weight fabric shell & lined sack suit coat. These are just downright cozy & comfortable for everyday use.

Slim
Western Reenacting                 Dark Lord of Soot
Live Action Shooting                 Pistoleer Extrordinaire
Firearms Consultant                  Gun Cleaning Specialist
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Johnny McCrae

Found this on Ebay for $59.95 with shipping included. I'll only wear a few times a year so the price was right.
You need to learn to like all the little everday things like a sip of good whiskey, a soft bed, a glass of buttermilk,  and a feisty old gentleman like myself

Two Bit Charlie

Hey Johnny, with that coat, we might let you sit at our table at the banquets!

Two-bit Charlie


Will Ketchum

Johnny, you can sit at my table no matter what your wearing. ;)

Will Ketchum
Will Ketchum's Rules of W&CAS: 1 Be Safe. 2 Have Fun. 3  Look Good Doin It!
F&AM, NRA Endowment Life, SASS Life 4222, NCOWS Life 133.  USMC for ever.
Madison, WI

Major 2

I would agree with Pete .....Well,   loin cloth excluded
when planets align...do the deal !

Texas Lawdog

I would like to find a Tan or Brown Frock coat in my size(58L). All I seem to find are Black coats.
SASS#47185  RO I   ROII       NCOWS#2244  NCOWS Life #186  BOLD#393 GAF#318 SCORRS#1 SBSS#1485  WASA#666  RATS#111  BOSS#155  Storm#241 Henry 1860#92 W3G#1000  Warthog AZSA #28  American Plainsmen Society #69  Masonic Cowboy Shootist  Hiram's Rangers#18  FOP  Lt. Col  Grand Army of The Frontier, Life Member CAF
   Col.  CAF  NRA  TSRA   BOA  Dooley Gang  BOPP  ROWSS  Scarlet Mask Vigilance Society Great Lakes Freight and Mining Company  Cow Cracker Cavalry   Berger Sharpshooters "I had no Irons in the Fire". "Are you gonna pull those pistols or whistle Dixie"?

Bruce W Sims

FWIW.... I picked-up on a dated brown suede coat (Size XL) and had it taken in just a bit. The idea
was to present a poorly fitted and rumpled image of a Sack coat or "Town coat". I think it came
off pretty well and there will be room underneath for my holster and sheath. Sometimes I think
the folks I see look just a tad too "tidy" and fitted so I'm working to go the other direction.  FWIW.

Best Wishes,

Bruce
Best Wishes,

Bruce

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