Action Smoothing Good or Not?

[pawneefork]

My NIB 1979 SAA is a little stiff.  Cosmetically flawless, but mechanically New.  It was nice to hear 4 clicks 30 years ago, but now I wonder whether I should be hearing 4 GLASSY clicks : )  That's the sound from TV and movies that started me on this journey anyway.  That, and history.  What say ye?  A gun this new (35 yrs) isn't exactly collectible, and though it's NIB, I may in fact shoot it.  I'm old and there isn't much time for preserving things based on arguable collectibility.  Can I, should I, have it tuned up, and let a good smith do (Bob James?) what the mfg should have done back in the Carter days?  Thanks.

[St. George]

Why not shoot it for 500-1000 rounds and 'then' decide if it actually needs work?

Put your money into range time - it'll pay off.

Scouts Out!

[Crow Choker]

Ditto's, 10-4, etc. to what St. George posted. Whenever I've ever purchased a new 'piece', I always put ALOT of rounds through it before attempting any needed smoothing of the innards. Unless there is a BIG problem then a return would be in the works. Just this working of the action, metal to metal contact will smooth things out many/most of the time. If any glitches are there, they'll still be announcing themselves.

[pawneefork]

That's surprisingly good advice, thanks!

[Coffinmaker]

I might go just a tad further.  Just swap out thr factory springs for a good set of lighter after-market springs.  Unless your into real CAS competition, you may find springs are all you need.  I recommend Lee's Gunsmithing Gunfighter springs.  Available thru Brownells.

Coffinmaker

[yahoody]

As suggested the right springs will make a big difference.  As will a good set of snap caps to shoot the gun to your hearts content...with no ammo going down range.

[Abilene]

Yep on a spring kit.  I have two .44 Spcl SAA's, both made in 1978.  First one was well used and had timing issues, so I got an action job on it by Bob Taylor (a very talented 'smith no longer with us).  Felt great.  Later I bought the second one, and it appeared as though it had never been fired.  I put a spring kit in it (AA Spring kit, no longer available) and that's all.  The gun that had the action job is just a tiny bit smoother than the one with the spring kit.

[Shotgun Franklin]

No real point in an action job or springs until the gun is really broken in.

[Sagebrush Burns]

A lighter main spring is likely all it needs.  I own a dozen Colt SAAs and only one of them actually needed an action job.

[yahoody]

Have a few myself and worked on/shot many, many more.  Always been pretty demanding and want a good trigger on any gun I shoot right from the get go.  I know with one tiny bit of dry firing if the guns warrants a trigger job, or not.  That said, I've never seen a new SAA of any brand that couldn't use a decent trigger job.  Although most USFA guns come as close as anything I have shot to being almost acceptable.

I start with a new mainspring..generally a reduced Wolff with a washer or Brownell's space under it.  Maybe a Gunslinger wire spring on the bolt and trigger.  But I like the Wolff flat springs as well depending on how I'll use the gun.  That usually makes them much more shootable for me.  But by then I check the over travel on the hammer (caused by a short trigger) if there is too much over travel on the hammer I replace the trigger with a hand fitted (much better/crisp/lighter trigger pull the result) factory part.  Over travel (short sear on the trigger)  is generally a sign of a previously, poorly done trigger work anyway or just sloppy work direct from Colt.

Just me maybe, but I like a good trigger.  No willing to put up with a bad trigger long.  Never thought about putting ammo down range on bad/difficult practice using a poor trigger.  SAA can have an amazing trigger with so little effort.  Why not take a moment and make it right before ever snapping on a primer. 

New springs and a washer or buff might run $30.  A new trigger $30 more.  Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual another $40.   Cheap if you are ever going to own more than one SAA...even if it is just one at a time.  YMMV.

[shrapnel]

There isn't a single action out there that wouldn't benefit from a good action job. There is nothing in a good action job that will hurt your revolver. I don't own a single Colt SAA that hasn't had that done. Everything about the gun will be better. If you notice the stiff/glitchy aspect of your revolver, there is no sense in waiting. Besides, for what it would cost to try and smooth it up by shooting it hundreds of rounds, it would still be cheaper to get the action job and start shooting a smooth gun.

Shooting a gun to wear the parts won't do anything like stoning and reworking the mainspring. Timing is also part of the action job, you can't time a gun by shooting it. It is worth it to send it to a reputable gunsmith, don't mess with it yourself. There are 2 kinds of people that work on guns; gunsmiths and fools...

[Graveyard Jack]

Far as I'm concerned the all need tuning, especially Colt's. Dry firing and shooting can only make a minor issue worse. I spent more hours stoning the action of my New Frontier than any of my Italians.