Durable finish

[Davem]

I've had trouble with my finish. It looks okay but if I don't put supersheene or some type of sealer on the leather- it will leech out and stain my clothes. If I put on the sealer- the leather ends up like rawhide. I spoke to some experts. They said use Fiebing oil based leather dye. Let it dry a day. Then rub in Neatsfoot oil. Let it dry a day, then use some sealer on a swab and just give it a smooth wipe- not too much.
  Anyhow, for a holster and belt- how do most of you finish the leather? Thanks.

[Trailrider]

Fiebings' Bag-Kote should do the trick. I use alcohol-based dye and usually don't have any trouble except with black or USMC black. The carbon black will rub off all over everything...UNLESS I apply Bag-Kote over it.  I will also use it with brown-colored dyes if there appears to be any chance of the dye rubbing off. Bag-Kote still allows the leather to breathe. It doesn't seal the leather.  Just be sure the dye is dry (24-48 hours, depending on your climate) before applying the Bag-Kote. Tandy may not carry Bag-Kote, but does carry Fiebing's Tan-Kote, which is the same stuff except for having a slight tan color to it.  Either one will darken the leather slightly.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

All I use is Lexol conditioner and/or a little organic EVOO (extra virgin olive oil). A slight application every year or so is plenty of treatment.

[Graveyard Jack]

I use all water based dyes and finishes. I case the leather and dye with Tandy's professional water stain. Treat with one to three light applications of extra virgin olive oil. Then gum trag, then hand buff. Then Bag-Kote, then buff again. This is what I end up with:

[Camano Ridge]

Dying can dry your leather and make it stiff feeling. I oil after dying to try to get some nutrients. After dying rub the heck out of the leather to get rid of loose dried pigment.  Then oil give the oil 24 hours to migrate into the leather, then apply finish/sealer of your choice.

[rickk]

Resolene.

I dampen a paper towel with a bit of water and then add Resolene to the paper towel. That sort of dilutes it and prevents blotchy application. It will partly to mostly dry in under an hour, although I would recommend a few days without handling to let it cure.  If one coat isn't glossy enough, add more coats until it looks right.

If the leather is really dry, you can rub it with a light coat of Neatsfoot before the Resolene and the Resolene will still cover and dry just fine.   Hell if I know how it can do it, but you can also put Neatsfoot oil on after the Resolene is dry and it seems to somehow get to the leather.   Yet, you wont have any issues with the dye leaching out.

[Davem]

Well, it  looks like there are a few different ways that work, I'll just have to keep experimenting. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.