Forcing cone cutter

[Fox Creek Kid]

Actually, it is 79º. 90 - 11 = 79. However, tradition is that people say 11º. Go figure. Supposedly Rugers are cut for 9º which is optimal for jacketed bullets.

I always check out any revolver, new or used, as some are obviously cut better than others.

[PJ Hardtack]

I like that interpretation of 79* as opposed to 11*. Easier for me to grasp the picture.

I wonder if Ruger cuts 9*/81* on their current Vaqueros which will mainly be used with lead bullets. I had a leading problem with my old original .44 magnum Vaqueros.

[rifle]

The lesser degree forcing cone is fer the jacketed bullets as far as I know. The 18 degree fer semiwad cutter type bullets. The 11 degree is a do-all type. The 11 degree works well with cap&ballers shootin round balls because balls are round  and can benefit  from the a longer funnel type forcing cone a bullet doesn't like. Of course a nominal 11 degree works well with the balls and improves accuracy for what I've seen working with it and.......going a lil over board with the 11 degree with shootin the balls makes things better.....specially with an alignment problem or loose sloppy bolt.
Making the 11 degree way over board with a cap&baller that has alignment problems that can't be solved other than a new cylinder(like when the cylinder has some chambers that align and some that are way off) or "barrel" that can actually align or throwing that gun in the parts drawer and buying a better one.......can turn a hopeless piece of inaccurate lead spittin crap into a very accurate revolver...shootin the balls.......not bullets.....but can improve the bullet situation too.
Anywhoooo......I'm just sayin.....there are times doin it wrong and too deep and long makes things right. Take a barrel for instance that iis so out of wack the balls will hit the flat part of the barrel outside the forcing cone and slice some ball off the ball. Hopeless gun and a wall hanger.....unless a smith type knows balls are different than conicals and can benifit from a "funnel" guiding the balls to the center of the barrel and  a funnel wide enough to get the barrel edge out of the way of an ill made gun.
I've taken cap&ballers with barrels way off in the distance from the center line of the bore to the center line of the arbor whereas the balls actually hit the edge of the barrel. An example would be a Belgian Centennial Colt Army or some FIE type old cap&baller where barrels and cylinders aren't gotten readily or a person just wouldn't have the cash fer new hard to find parts anyway. In a situation like that someone with a hopeless gun can be helped out by someone who can widden a forcing cone "too" wide (within safe limits) so the gun can actually fire balls with really good accuracy and not spit lead and all.
The forcing cone kit from Brownells is a really good tool set and if used incorrectly like being unpiloted and canted way off in one direction or the other can save some hopeless guns that are so out of wack it's ridiculous. Cap&ballers that actually can benifit from an oblong shaped forcing cone.
One thing....if the brass pilots in the tool kit have any looseness to them at all fitting in the lands there will be "chatter" around a new cut forcing cone. Pilots have to be a perfect fit. Someone with a lathe to size or make new pilots has it made....no lathe yer in trouble unless  you get innovative. Pilots I've gotten from Brownells are always a lil small fer what they are to fit and need snugged up or remade. That includes the chamfer facing and angle cutters where the pilots fit in the end of the cutter.
I can give a tip....use of o-rings on the forcing cone cutters pilot or shim stock on it can help if you can force the pilot in the bore with o-rings on it or use an assortment of shim stock to cut and wrap the chamfer type pilots. If you want a perfect cut the pilots have to have "no looseness". If there's loose there's chatter cuts.
Making pilots or making pilots fit well is where the problems come in making things a lil less simple and straight forward.