1851 Conversion questions

Started by Flinch Morningwood, September 19, 2013, 10:34:16 PM

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Flinch Morningwood

Recently bought a set of Uberti 1851 conversions.  Something seems off but I don't know if its me...


  • The gun goes to "half cock" with the hammer only about 1/2 inch from the rest position.  You can spin the cylinder here but the holes don't line up with the ejection rod when it clicks into place.  You have to stop the cylinder bEFORE it clicks into place to be able use the ejector

  • The handles are bigger than the Pietta 1851 Navy I did the R&D conversion myself several years ago

Is that just the way these guns are?  I bought this set from Able Ammo for my wife to get into shooting...but if they are going to be finicky like this, we may return them and get something else.

Thanks!
"I'll kill a man in a fair fight. Or if I think he's gonna start a fair fight."

- Jayne Cobb

Bugscuffle

I guess that the real question here is this. Is cylander not stopping in the right place or is the ejection rod located incorrectly? In either case it will be a machineist's job to fix it. If it were me, I'd be looking for a replacement or full refund.
I will no longer respond to the rants of the small minded that want to sling mud rather than discuss in an adult manner.

Major 2

Am I missing your point ?  

"half cock" with the hammer only about 1/2 inch from the rest position ... that's fine
If in free spin it should not ..."click ( as in  stop ? lock ? ) in to place" ... it should not !   you roll through it for each round to eject and you line it up to eject.

Pietta Grips (if it was the Brass Back strap ) is not correct, it will be thinner (and straighter)  as it curves toward the hammer and a bit of extra Tail.
See the attached Pietta Frame ....
The Pietta may feel somewhat thinner further up  in the meatier part of you palm as the hump roll toward the hammer.

The Uberti 51 Navy will be the same shape as the 73 SAA ( and Pietta got it right on their London model (steel Grip frame )

Course without seeing your guns  :-\ you said set,  as in two ? are they both the same ?

and don't compare the converted Pietta action with the Uberti conversions, The Pietta you did, would still have the BP ratchet Pawl.
The Factory Conversion Uberti will have the two step Pawl.

when planets align...do the deal !

Flinch Morningwood

Bigscuffle:  The cylinder seems to stop in the right place...IE - centered on the extraction port.  I think the ejector assembly is about 1/8' high, meaning you have to hold the cylinder in place just before it "clicks" in order to use the rod.

I had this issue when I did the Pietta conversion until I adjusted the set of the ejector assembly.  I had assumed this would be correct on a factory converted weapon.

Major2:  They are both the same.  When I say "click into place," I meant so that you can not backspin the cylinder. 

I am fine with the halfcock being closer than I am used to...just wanted to ensure it wasn't "wrong."

The handles are about 1/2" longer (rearward) than the other 51 Navies I have.  I specifically chose these because they were supposed to have the Navy and not later Army handles.  But if that's how Uberti does it, then that's what I've got.


If I can get the ejection rod lined up, these will be nice pieces...

Any ideas on the best way to do this or is it a gunsmith/machinist challenge?
"I'll kill a man in a fair fight. Or if I think he's gonna start a fair fight."

- Jayne Cobb

Pettifogger

Handles?  You mean grips.  It would be nice if you posted a picture so we can see what you are talking about as Uberti has several models of open tops and conversions.  Sounds like yours has the Army grip on it.  Most of the conversions are harder to load and unload than a Single Action Army because the ejector, loading port, etc. were all add-ons.

Coffinmaker

The half-cock position you mention is normal.  There is no "safety" notch, just the half-cock.  The hammer travel is also shorter on the Uberti "conversion" than on the SAA or SAA reproductions.
The failure of the ejector rod to line up with the cylinder chambers is also normal.  As Pettifogger posted, these guns are based on guns that had an ejector assembly as an "add-on."  The miss-alignment is super noticeable if the guns are .38 as opposed to .44s  The only rea answe is to adjust your unloading technique.  I would suggest you rest the butt of the gun on the table with the barrel pointing up.  Grip the gun with your left and turn the cylinder with you fingers, stopping the cylinder as the ejector rod lines up.  bout half your fired cases are going to just fall out and the rest will just require a gentile "nudge" unless the case is split.  In most cases, you'll also notice the ejection cut in the conversion ring doesn't align perfectly with the cut in the recoil shield.  Just the way it is.  Adapt and overcome.

Coffinmaker

Flinch Morningwood

That makes sense on the 38...Thanks Coffinmaker.

As long as I know its as it is supposed to be, I can work with it.
"I'll kill a man in a fair fight. Or if I think he's gonna start a fair fight."

- Jayne Cobb

Major 2

What they said ...Coffinmaker & Pettifogger .... perhaps I was not as articulate  :)

And If Indeed you do have 60 Army Grip farmes...  they can be swapped for 51 Navy Grips frames.
when planets align...do the deal !

Abilene

I'd be pretty sure your guns have Navy grips (brass gripframe) because that is the only grip Uberti puts on their '51 conversions.  I have four of the '51 Richards-Masons, and 3 of them line up okay for ejection.  Only one does like yours, Flinch.  In a way, it is just like an old model Vaquero.  I have gotten used to turning the cylinder with my left hand while lightly pushing the ejector rod against the cylinder with my left hand, so the rod goes into the cylinder hole to punch out the empty as soon as the cylinder is turned far enough.  Some folks have shaved off part of the ejector rod, similar to the way an SAA rod for a .357 gun is shaved versus the round rod for .44 and .45.  The other way to do it is have a gunsmith adjust the hand and/or half-cock notch on the hammer, I think.  The guy I bought that conversion from suggested loosening the attachment screw for the ejector housing and twisting it downward a bit and then tightening the screw.  This worked somewhat, but didn't want to stay in that position.  You could try that, though, as it is easy enough.

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