What to do with this Colt's revolving army pistol

[Major 2]

Rifle,  I had not thought in terms of DIY

I know you have the skill, saw what you did for a friends Belgian 1860 .... some years ago.



"small size bucket of nitre blue salts" and a clean steel bucket (coffee can even) and a single burner propane gas set up...

I'd sure enjoy a tutorial , on this myself , I have freshly defarbed & polished 51 Navy barrel I like to try myself.

[rifle]

Major, there are directions that come with the salts. Read those and make sure you have a high temp thermometer like a lead casting thermometer.
Naturally the parts need degreased and made perfectly clean.
If there are problems like lil spots or whatever then live with them or do the job again or give Raven a try....he probably doesn't charge a lot to nitre blue and has the "touch" or "experience".
Ifin you want to PM me fer a number to call and talk that's alright.
I did do some ,a couple , of the Belgian Centaure Centennials 1860 Army Colts in the nitre blue. The steel they are made of like the salts as do Uberti's too. If there are some lil blemishes the parts  still look good. The job can always be done over if need be too.
One tip I read some where....if a Pard wants the blue-black with a tinge of brown(like a well cared for antique) a very thin fine rub of oil on the parts to be blued does that color. It would need to be a real thin coat of oil though I'd say.
Another tip from a well known famous gunsmith.....don't need to polish more than to 400 grit to get a good job. My addition to that....make all the lines go length wise and all the same direction. Personally I like a finer sanding/polish like to at least to 1,000 grit.
You see.......one trick to get the finish more durable I've found is to not polish out to 2,000 grit or finer but......leave sand paper grit lines on the piece all in the same direction on one end and off the other end(NO STOP AND REVERSE DIRECTION SINCE THAT LEAVES SWIRLS)and very neat looking since........
The nitre bue stays in the deeper sanding lines(lots and lots of lines) and wears first from the top surface of the lines so......there's always enough color even when it starts to wear.
Nitre blue is a good bit more durable than what Uberti puts on that they call charcoal blue which is merely heat blue in my opinion.
The oxydizers in the nitre blue do something more than just heat blue to the metal.
If things just don't work out then send the parts to a gunsmith and save yer salts fer tempering springs and the like.
If you get the "stuff and all" may as well give it a good enough try though.

[Major 2]

Thanks Rifle... polishing is no problem , it was the right blue concoction I had not tried.

I have 51 Navy Barrel I like to try, Though I may just sent it to HH...

I have two he did and they are flawless. 

[rifle]

That's cool Major.One way or the other as long as an Hombre gets what he wants and stays within the law to get it then it's an 
harmonious outcome.   
There's always the sense of personal satisfaction ,when a job is done well, personally though. Of course ........goin the easier route to the top of the hill has it's perks too.
I wonder why more don't delve into the art of charcoal bluing with the red hot coals like was done with the early Colt percussion guns.
Getting HH to do a flawless job would be satisfying since it's not always easy to get "flawless".
Anywhoooooo.....I like a blue/black finish on a cap&baller since that is more authentic than black.
Just something about the blue/black that is reminesent of the old Winchesters and some of the old shotguns.
Anywhooooo..ifin you change yer mind and want to do the nitre yer self I could give a coupla tips.

[Hoof Hearted]

Thanks Rifle... polishing is no problem , it was the right blue concoction I had not tried.

I have 51 Navy Barrel I like to try, Though I may just sent it to HH...

I have two he did and they are flawless. 

Awwe.....ya thought about me on me birthday!