Inserting issues

Started by JD Alan, October 15, 2013, 08:18:19 AM

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JD Alan

Hi one and all. I've decided to trying putting an insert of fake croc that  bought from Tandy, into a holster I'm building.  I'm using 8/9 leather, and after cutting out the hole, I'm looking at a gap if you will, between the insert andthe outside of the holster. I haven't sewn andthing yet, 'cause once I took a look at it I decided to get some advice before proceeding.

I had a talk with KT quite some time ago about how to do this but it's been so long I don't remember what he said

And help would be greatly appreciated, JE
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

outrider

JD  I usually don't use such heavy leather around an insert...try to find a nice piece of 3/4 oz.

Man it's good to see you posting again...you have been missed
Outrider  (formerly "Dusty Dick" out of PA.)
SASS #2353
BOLD #895
Custom Leathersmith
Ocoee Rangers

JD Alan

Thanks Outrider, it's good to be back and to hear from you again.

So if I understand you correctly, you would use a lighter weight leather for the outside of the holster, then use a heavier weight for the liner.     
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Camano Ridge

JD here are some info that might help as well as links to a couple of how to videos on inlays. THe video are knife sheaths however the principals are the same. Can you show us a picture of your problem. My mental picture may not be what you are trying to describe.


You will need two layers of leather. Depending on the look you wish to achieve and the intended use of the part will determine the thickness of the two layers. Both layers can be the same, or thick base and thin top, or thin base and thick top. Typically for a sheath say, I will use like 4-5oz for the base and 3-4 oz for the top, and the last shoulder holster I made, I used two layers of 7-8 oz. I also glue both layers back to back so the top grain is always showing. This makes for nice linings in sheaths and holsters.
Design your "window", remembering to allow for the stitch line and any tooling.

Cut out the window and save the cutout. I then finish the edge of the window at this point, dyeing and burnishing. Lay the top piece on the base and mark where the window is located. Determine if you will be padding your inlay. Inlay padding can be your cutout( trimmed down accordingly), foam, suede, etc. I normally use suede or foam. Padding looks good on most of the thinner skins, but really doesn't work well at all on skins like stingray as its just to hard. If you are using padding, go ahead and glue it to the base where marked. I like my skin to be about 3/8"-1/2" larger than the window, then cut and glue to the base. Position and glue your top piece to the base and stitch around your window. This is typically done with a smaller thread and higher TPI count, but you can use the same thread if it's all you have. Then proceed with your normal construction of your project.

Here is a thread on leatherworker.net they may be of help to you as well. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33263&hl=+holster%20+inlay#entry206788



http://dcknivesandleather.blademakers.com/

Hope this helps.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Welcome home JD, great seeing you out here again pal ;D


  tEN wOLVES  ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

KidTerico

JD outriders right. I use 4 to 5 oz on the outside and line it with 8 oz.  Give them heck. Cant wait to see it. KT  ;)
Cheer up things could be worse, sure enough I cheered up and they got worse.

Skeeter Lewis

Welcome back, JD. Sorry to hear of your travails. Artisan work is a wonderful answer to the stresses of life.

outrider

Thanks KT glad you agree with the lighter leather
Outrider  (formerly "Dusty Dick" out of PA.)
SASS #2353
BOLD #895
Custom Leathersmith
Ocoee Rangers

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