Lining technique To Marshal Will & Red Cent

[BobbyF]

I only addressed to both of you because I'm going to refer to your posts on 5/24/13. I love both pics you posted,although I'm going to attempt to make a field holster. I obviously would as always appreciate any comments from the many artisans on this forum. Can I  wet mold my holster leather, a stiff 8-9 that the gents in Tandy recommended. And as a lining I have some softer nicely finished black material that is a little less than an1/8 " I think it is a 4-5. Can I mold the thick material let it dry and then glue the light stuff into dried thick stuff. I was going to hold the body together with many small strong clothes pin type clamps and sew it together afterwards. I have strong shoulders, am I nuts?
     I was afraid if I glue the lining first I would be able to wet mold the double layer
     Thank you all again, I only have 68 more forum pages to read, wow I love it! -BobbyF

[Camano Ridge]

I think you will find it much easier to glue the lining in place then wet mold. However when you say wet mold are you wet molding for general shape and retention or are you intending to detail wet mold to show all the lines etc of the gun? If you are doing a general wet mold to shape the holster to the gun you will be able to do it with the thick leather just get it good and wet. If you are intending to detail mold you will have a difficult time getting real sharp lines with thicker leather. Most of my holsters are two layers of 6 - 7 oz and I wet mold every holster.

[Massive]

There are different degrees of molding, and purposes.  So that makes a difference.  But once you know what you want...

There isn't any problem gluing your two levels together on the flat, and then molding them after the whole thing is sewn.  Just keep in mind that a typical lining for many people is suede, which is not a moldable leather.  As a thin lining it will go along for the ride.  Same thing with chrome leather, it doesn't mold like veg tan.  But two layers of veg tan glued together will mold very nicely.  The more leather you use the harder it is to mold.

I like the LG2 glue from Tandy, it holds up really well for wet molding and is easy to use.

[Red Cent]

I agree with both. I mold the finished piece no matter the weight of leather. I do clamp some created pieces of wood strategically on the wet leather.  The 1911 holster lends itself to this.

With some care, you can get the holster really wet and take your time, either manually or with boning/moulding tools. The really wet leather is mushy so don't be aggrressive. Thumbs works well and continue as the leather dries. I found that I have something that I use for kydex holsters works well with leather holsters. I built this to mould kydex.



I don't over wet so much with this. The press will give you great definition and you can see where you can add definition.

[Red Cent]

I never buy suede lined holsters nor do I use it now. Long ago, I learned that suede traps dust and very fine grit in its fibers. Over time, it will work on the gun surface. This is an arguable stement and I know that many of those who carry really like the feel and look.

Ever think to reverse and put the thin leather on the outside? I do.

[Massive]

I feel the same way, but he didn't specify.

Another thing.  When you double the thickness of a material it's stiffness goes up 8x.  So it doesn't take much  added material to get the results you need, or to require you step up whatever you are using to mold it.

[BobbyF]

Muchas gracias Pards,
     A lot of good advice and ideas. Every time I read a post I learn something and re-design my pattern and alter my method of work. I'll avoid the use of suede, I'm real tempted to put the thinner black material on the outside, I think I would like the two tone effect. Will, I used to use a similar press set to do formica and vernier jobs. I want to mold mostly for retention reasons as it going to be used as a field holster. Thank you all for the great info-- Bobby F

[Red Cent]

Something placed in the trigger guard on the outside of the leather will really create retention. I do not use the thick soft material on leather.

[BobbyF]

An apology to Red Cent, I credited Marshal for the press design by mistake. I think I'm going to go back to the heavy tan outside and the lighter black as the liner and mexican loops and the belt liner. You all make it so difficult every pic I look at I want. I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve. Some type of external trigger guard retention gizmo is a good thought. I also am going to cover the rear sights and mold around them. I also hope to work a strap to slip over the hammer. I retired a couple years ago after 35 yrs as a cop in New York and retention was always on my mind. Thank you all again--BobbyF

[Red Cent]

To clarify, that trigger guard retention object is placed inside the press on top of the leather in the trigger guard. Provides further defenition. Dowel pins placed parallel to the barrel also helps.

[BobbyF]

Thanks Red, I got it. By the way,I force my wife to watch all Westerns on the cable tv channel. When she saw your pic on the forum she said you belong in Hollywood doing cowboy movies-bobbyF

[Red Cent]

Your wife has a good eye.

Tell her Thamk you.