Hey Hoof!..???????

Started by rbertalotto, April 12, 2013, 07:31:59 PM

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rbertalotto

I have a pair of 1860 Colts (Pietta) that you sold me a set of Kirst converter cylinders. They work excellent! Thanks!

But I was wondering....would they be more solid if I drilled and taped the frame and bolted the recoil plate to the frame instead of having it kind of flop around?

I saw an original conversion and the recoil plate was attached to the frame....

Your comments???
Roy B
South of Boston
www.rvbprecision.com
SASS #93544

Hoof Hearted

Roy

Not necessary and a bit difficult.........
If you examine the recoil shield area of your pistol there are only two places to drill and both (while it should be within your ability) are problematic.

Give me a call and I'll explain further.

HH
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rbertalotto

Thanks Hoof,

I'll ring ya up tomorrow to discuss.
Roy B
South of Boston
www.rvbprecision.com
SASS #93544

Thomas (Tom) Horn aka James Hicks

Rbertalotto-

HH will probably disagree with me on this... but what I did was use JBWeld on the bottom side of the ring. I kept applying the JB Weld till I had substancial buildup I then took a diamond file and shaped the JBWeld add on so that it fit the bottom curve of the pistol frame. The converter ring is now tight and not sloppy.  In my opinion... I think Kirst should correct the way the converter ring is made for the army 60's. The ring is a "sloppy fit" as ordered. My opinion for what it is worth.
"If I killed that kid, it was the best shot I ever made, and the dirtiest trick I ever did."

Hoof Hearted

Well that is creative :o

The ring has to be a compromise, I can tell you from experience. Since that area of the frame has no real mechanical purpose there is a TON of variation over the years and between the manufacturers. If you ever look at Walt's original patent drawings he had two set screws for positioning that could be adjusted. The "foot" on the ring is made as one size fits all so you do not have to pay for installation but could be welded up, drilled and tapped for set screws and even JB welded but it works pretty well as is.

Regards, HH
Anonymity breeds bravado.......especially over the internet!
http://cartridgeconversion.com
http://heelbasebullet.com
aka: Mayor Maynot KILLYA SASS #8038
aka: F. Alexander Thuer NCOWS #3809
STORM #400

Thomas (Tom) Horn aka James Hicks

I figured that "one size" fits all... when I first installed the Kirst, I noticed that the converter ring was a sloppy fit.  Did not know if that was the way it was suppose to be or not.... LOL so I JB Welded it... it is tight now ...laughing

One size fits all... that all would be the Uberti 60 or the Pietta 60... I have never looked at or owned one of the 60's by Uberti, but would not the curve in the frame housing be the same ??? Don't know.  And it may not make a difference whether the ring fits sloppy or not...
"If I killed that kid, it was the best shot I ever made, and the dirtiest trick I ever did."

Hoof Hearted

I forgot to mention that there is a certain amount of "tolerance" or slop between the ratchet portion's OD and the ID of the ring. I believe Waly specs these at a certain size plus and minus .005" so if both parts are machined to the wide end of that there can be .010" (ten thou) between them. That combined with the variances in the frames can seem "sloppy" without the cases in the chambers. But with cases inserted it should not be an issue.

I have machined factory Navy cylinders to tighter tolerances there and it does make them "feel" good ::)

HH
Anonymity breeds bravado.......especially over the internet!
http://cartridgeconversion.com
http://heelbasebullet.com
aka: Mayor Maynot KILLYA SASS #8038
aka: F. Alexander Thuer NCOWS #3809
STORM #400

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