Polishing off scratches

[Presidio]

Have a 58 remi Old Army that had some gouges in the steel itself.  Sanded out the gouges  ,but now have "sanding scratches" .  What would you pards recommend I use to finish polishing off the scratches and getting the steel back normal finish.

These guns were originally blued, but, I removed it cause I like shooting 'em in the "White".

Any help would be greatly appreciative !

[St. George]

You've sanded out the 'big stuff' - now try succesively finer grades paper and wet-sand.

Your 'larger' scratches will disappear.

Shift to Crocus Cloth - repeat.

Now - once you've wiped it completely - look at your finish.

Jeweler's Rouge on a piece of towelling can bring it up to a nice gloss and you can complete that with Simichrome or Wenol.
(I know - there are others - I use these...)

Given the 'flat' nature found on a Remington - polishing is easy by using something 'flat' to wrap your paper around.

You 'really' want to maintain all flat surfaces as true as possible.

If you want more of an 'antiqued' finish - or a well-used, 'worn' one - you can Cold Blue your revolver - having first heated it with hot water - and then you can polish off the bulk of it by using Simichrome or 0000 Steel Wool and oil - leaving finish in 'protected' areas.

If you prefer a bright, almost 'nickelled' finish - Simichrome on 0000 Steel Wool can make it shine...

Good Luck.

Scouts Out!

[Presidio]

Thanky kindly fer the info, Pard!  One final question though - where kin I find the Semichrome ya were talkin' about?

[St. George]

In the damndest places - an Antique Shop - and the local Harley Dealership...

Go figure...

Both Simichrome and/or Wenol iis a pink paste - like toothpaste.
As such - you can 'control' it where you can't quite pull that off by using Brasso - and it won't spill.

It comes in either a tube or a tub - and for 'normal' chores - the tube lasts a long time, but if you're doing a 'lot' of polishing - the tub's not a bad idea.

It will also put a 'coating' on the metal tha'll help in keeping tarnish off, so if you're going to try 'aging' it by cold-bluing and further polishing - wash the weapon off before you try it, since you'll want the bluing to hold for a bit as you polish it off.
If that protective coating's there - it won't.

Good Luck.

Scouts Out!

[Presidio]

Hmmm...Harley Shop and gun repair.  The two kinda go together, don't they?

Thanks agin fer the timely reply and info!  Got all my tack together and now just have to find some time to apply some elbow grease to them scratches.  Nowadays, that's a prime commodity around here.

[St. George]

And that's why they invented the idea of 'Winter'...

Good Luck.

While you're at it - you may want to give thought to draw-filing the Italian markings and all from the flats.

Go slow - stop a couple of file strokes after the last vestiges of marks are gone - just to make sure - and your piece will look great.

Scouts Out!

[Sergeant Smokepole]

As a former metal polisher, my advice is to use progressively finer abrasive polishing cloths. Remember to slightly angle each grit across the previous one to ensure that you get out all the rougher polishing lines. If you want a nice durable finish to blue, stop at 800 grit. You can go finer or buff to a high sheen with buffs and compound but the bluing will be less durable, although a lot purtier.

[Presidio]

Thanks fer the advice and help there St. George and Sergeant Smokepole.  Soon as time prevails (winter or not) I'll set forth a workin' them scratches out. 

Teach me from doin' my own smithin' without the proper tools.   Yeah...did a barrell change out with a chain vise and wrench.    Dumb cowboy!  Dumb cowboy!

[Silver Creek Slim]

I might just have to try this on a gun or two, but after I get the boiler installed. 

Slim