Rossi 1892 DVD

[Bugscuffle]

My cheapskate bone is aching me again so I'm looking to beg, borow, steal or at last resort, buy the DVD that illustrates the slick-up procedure for the Rossi 1892 rifle. I already have the spring set and the magazine follower and I don't want to have topay $56 to get the DVD, as it only comes with some of the needed parts. If any of you guys have it I'd be glad to talk to you about buying/renting it from you. P.M. or E-mail me if you have one like this available.

http://store.stevesgunz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=7

Thanks
Bugscuffle

[Pettifogger]

http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Rossitune.htm

[Bugscuffle]

Thanks anyway Pard, but I already had this URL.

[wildman1]

BS, I just put the "Rossi 92 Gunslinger" kit in my wifes 92. I took it out, put the originals back and left only the spring that fits in the lever. I had already cut the original springs ta lighten em and they were noticeably slicker than the kit. WM

[Capt. Augustus]

I just looked on his store`s website and he has the dvd only for about $30.

[Bugscuffle]

Thanks to all for the responses. A special thanks to Joe who has lent me the DVD.

[joec]

There is a bit more involved in the tune up than just springs. I actually didn't use the spring that came with the kit as the stock one worked better for me. I also choose not to use a spring cut option that he left up to your discretion. It really covers what parts and where need to be cleaned up as well as disassembly and reassembly. Mine is very smooth now even with all factory stock springs.

[wildman1]

Ditto, slicked it but my wife wanted it ta run a little easier so I shortened the springs a little. It is very slick and no probs settin off the primers (CCI). WM

[Bugscuffle]

Mine has a few hitches in the giddy-up. It is a bit jerky when operating the lever, not exactly "smooth". What I thought that I would do is change out the spring set, do all the polishing jobs recommended and then see how it works. If nothing has changed, I'll try the spring shortening/stretching method and see what that does to it, but I suspect that the polishingjob willdo the most for the gun. Fortunately, I have this masochistic streak in me and I spend hours bent over the polishing wheel. While I'm here, have any of you tried either the lubricants with silicone or the teflon suspended in it? Apparently the teflon suspension dries leaving behind a white deposit that I assume is teflon. I remember reding somewhere that these lubes do not act well with plain old gunoil, but no specifics were given. I have looked around, but I cannot find information on these lubes.

[wildman1]

In one of the articles on slicking they recommend useing White Lithium spray grease, it works very well. When ya first spray it on it is not as slick. When the grease dries a little it is very slick. Sometimes the mouth of the chamber has sharp edges. If the case mouth shows little nicks in it ya might need ta take the sharp edge off of the chamber at the top. WM

[joec]

I use Tetra Gun grease on all of my guns. A little goes a long way and bonds with the metal. It can be removed with Gun Scrubber or similar product and gets along good with Breakfree CLP  also. These are pretty much to the two things I use to lub my guns from semi auto, revolvers and rifles.

[HolliferADollar]

I disassembled my 92, stoned all the internal parts to smooth them up & put in a Lee Gunslinger spring kit.  it was a lot better, but still not as good as I wanted.

After talking to a friend who has the slickest 92 I have ever seen, I did what he suggested.  I bought a can of mechanic's valve grinding compound (600 grit, oil-based since my gun is blued), disassembled the rifle, coated all the parts with the valve compound, then reassembled the action.  I dumped in a good bit of oil, then worked the action for about 20 minutes with the valve compound in there.  I disassembled it again, cleaned everything out with Gun Scrubber, reassembled with a little white lithium lube & now it is smooth as silk!  This way there is no worry about affecting the headspace by removing too much material, you don't need a dremel & you don't have to thin down any springs.

[joec]

I disassembled my 92, stoned all the internal parts to smooth them up & put in a Lee Gunslinger spring kit.  it was a lot better, but still not as good as I wanted.

After talking to a friend who has the slickest 92 I have ever seen, I did what he suggested.  I bought a can of mechanic's valve grinding compound (600 grit, oil-based since my gun is blued), disassembled the rifle, coated all the parts with the valve compound, then reassembled the action.  I dumped in a good bit of oil, then worked the action for about 20 minutes with the valve compound in there.  I disassembled it again, cleaned everything out with Gun Scrubber, reassembled with a little white lithium lube & now it is smooth as silk!  This way there is no worry about affecting the headspace by removing too much material, you don't need a dremel & you don't have to thin down any springs.

I did the modifications as per the Steve's Gunz DVD including the extractor and trigger springs. I didn't however cut the other springs or use his either. I left the stock springs but the gun sure got smoother. I did use some lapping compound for a bit then removed it also and used the tetra on all surfaces where metal rubs against metal with CLP for the rest. After about 3000 rounds it still feeds, ejects and is even a bit smoother than when done. Either way a lot more than when I got it and as good as any I've tried also.

[Sam Cobra]

What kinda gunsmithing tools do you guys have?  I bought a Rossi 92 in December and would like to try this but I don't have any tools.  Typically all I do is clean my firearms so I would need to pick up some basic tools..or maybe a kit?

[HolliferADollar]

What kinda gunsmithing tools do you guys have?  I bought a Rossi 92 in December and would like to try this but I don't have any tools.  Typically all I do is clean my firearms so I would need to pick up some basic tools..or maybe a kit?

All you need is a gunsmith screwdriver set, a set of drift punches & a small hammer.  I got my screwdriver set (the Wheeler compact set) & brass hammer from Midway USA.  I have 2 sets of drift punches, in steel & brass.  Your local hardware store may have them in steel.  If you have a Harbor Freight store anywhere close, they definitely have them.  I lucked up on a set of brass punches at a flea market.  The steel punches, I bought as needed over the years.

[HolliferADollar]

I did the modifications as per the Steve's Gunz DVD including the extractor and trigger springs. I didn't however cut the other springs or use his either. I left the stock springs but the gun sure got smoother. I did use some lapping compound for a bit then removed it also and used the tetra on all surfaces where metal rubs against metal with CLP for the rest. After about 3000 rounds it still feeds, ejects and is even a bit smoother than when done. Either way a lot more than when I got it and as good as any I've tried also.

Invest in the Lee Gunslinger kit - its worth it.  It made a noticeable difference in my rifle, before I gave it the valve-lapping trick.  One thing though, I couldn't get the ejector spring in to save my life.  That is the only stock spring I left in the action.

[joec]

Invest in the Lee Gunslinger kit - its worth it.  It made a noticeable difference in my rifle, before I gave it the valve-lapping trick.  One thing though, I couldn't get the ejector spring in to save my life.  That is the only stock spring I left in the action.

I got the Lee kit after I did the orginial job and have plans to install them in the future. So far however the rifle is as smooth as I need it since I shoot NCOWS and speed isn't a major part of it at all. I am happy though as I can work the gun all day long without any discomfort to the back of my lever hand. That was my main reason for doing it as after a couple of loads the back of the fingers on my right hand begin to feel it.