Thanks guys

[Slowhand Bob]

Well you guys have taught an old dog a new trick and I certainly appreciate it.  I was lurking when you guys were talking about glues a while back and decided to try Weld Wood after seeing several of you brag on it.  WOW, this has been a huge head and shoulders over the common leather glues I had been using.  Though it does tend to set to tacky a little faster, the time required for spreading is so quick that it makes up for it and then some.  Early tests indicate that is as  strong or stronger than Barge or Leather Weld.

I did find that the WW recommended mineral spirits does not clean glue brushes at all but a wood worker friend tells me to try acetone for better results?  A couple of weeks back, with no acetone on hand,  I used one of the cheap foam brushes to spread the glue on a holster project and, Ill bet some of you have guessed it, tiny pieces of foam tended to pull off onto the work piece.  But the trick for this was learned later in the day when I tried to use the same cheap foam brush again and it worked great this time.  The glue from the first use had filled the pores and set up but the brush had remained flexible and worked even better.  I glued three complete holsters/liners with that first brush before it became to tacky, not to bad for  .75 a pop.   Buy them bulk and pretreat them with glue  well before using them, works great and when they fail toss them.

Well thats what I have tried so far and thanks for setting me on the right track. 

[GunClick Rick]

Good to know,i'll use it on my horns wrapping.

[Dalton Masterson]

Its good stuff, SB.

I use the little plastic glue bottle with the brush in the lid myself. I fill it about 1/2 to 2/3 full, and when it starts getting stringy, I let it dry with the lid off. Then I poke a short piece of star shaped brass rod (use whatever you have) and twist it until it turns into a glue ball on the end. Takes about 5 minutes to clean out the jar.

I thought I goofed up last time though. I left my brush out and let it dry for a couple days before I got back to clean it out. The brush was super hard and I figured I needed to order a replacement or two. BUT, I needed glue right then, so I used it, and as expected, it was like spreading glue with a stick.
BUT, when I went back the next day, after leaving the brush in the glue, it was soft like before, and is still working great.

DM (who needs to pick up another can of WW next time at the store)

[Eloy Santa Cruz]

I have had problems with Barge and Tanners Bond getting "snotty" in the can. I have tried the appropriate thinners without much luck. Is this a problem with Weld Wood?

[GunClick Rick]

Can ya get it at the hardware store? Like Orchard Supply?

[Ned Buckshot]

Yes Rick, it can be found at most hardware or home improvement store.

Marketed by DAP, the people that make spackle and that kind of stuff. Comes in a mostly red can. And cheaper than Barge!

[Massive]

I have had problems with Barge and Tanners Bond getting "snotty" in the can. I have tried the appropriate thinners without much luck. Is this a problem with Weld Wood?

I can't say I have tried this with Barge, but I used a ton of different glues and stuff comes up that is the same.  Often a product in your particular environment will have a depletion rate where once you get the can half empty it is virtually impossible to keep the glue going.  The exact amount of open space can vary a lot. 

Three things to do:

- Realize you are buying half cans, and just toss them when they get empty.

- depending on price of supply find something like glass marbles, pebbles that you can throw into the glue to keep the level up.

- explore stuff like bloxygen, a gas that will sit on top of the product and seal out the air.  Bloxygen comes from paint, and woodworking stores.  There is a similar product sold in wine stores.  And I think if you had argon gas around as some of us do, that might work to.  With highly volatile products I wonder if they don't just keep rising out from under the bloxygen, so you might need to do more than just use the bloxygen.  Bloxygens are all hevier than air gasses, and therefore you want to have a method of using them that doesn't involve  just pouring the stuff, out the bottle, since that will toss the bloxygen also.  A brush you dip in is fine for that, as are several other methods.

[Slowhand Bob]

Eloy, I poured about 6 or eight oz in a 16oz plastic jar and it is about empty now and still seems the same thin consistency as when I poured it in.  Try to limit yourself to about what you think will be used in a couple or three weeks and keep it sealed good between sessions and you shouldnt have any trouble.  This stuff is considerably thinner than Barge and I think it is allowing a better penetration into the leather fiibers but you do want to spread it out fairly thin, so it seams to work for me.  I wait an hour or two before putting on a second coat for assembly.  I did not like the three coat idea.  I got my can at Lowes or Home Depot BUT it comes in multiple varietys so be sure and get the kind you want.

[KidTerico]

Hi Bob have you tried the GEL. I quit useing the liquid after they came out with the Gel. For me I lile it a lot better. KT

[Slowhand Bob]

No Kid, just got turned onto the liquid but if gel is better than this, well I just might not be able to stand it!     Tell me more.

[KidTerico]

Not as messy to work with. Gives your more time to work with. Will not run or drip  and spreads very nice. KT

[Slowhand Bob]

I will give it a try when the quart I have is gone.  Thanks for the heads up on it.