How to lube Schofield for blackpowder?

[jphendren]

I took out my new S&W Schofield Model of 2000 yesterday; I fired it with Black Hills 230gr .45 S&W ammo.  I had a great time.  The action is very soft and smooth compared to either a Colt or USFA SAA.  It shoots to POA at 25 yards with the above mentioned ammo.  The trigger pull is crisp, but heavy compared to any of my SAA's, is there a way to lighten that?  From what I understand it has a "rotary hammer block," which increased the trigger pull to 6.5 lbs.  I prefer my trigger pull around 3 lbs.

Anyways, I am planning to try it with black powder.  I know that it has been done before, with varying degrees of success.  I plan on loading Swiss FFFg under a 235gr Goex Black Dawg bullet, and dipping the bullet tips in Crisco (another guy tried it, and claimed to get 140+ shots out of a Uberti Schofield, and the cylinder still spun freely).

I usually shoot blackpowder in my SAA's, they run it fine.  I know that part of the equation is lubing the revolver correctly for blackpowder.  I lube the base pin, and ratchet with Ayer's Pistol Grease, which is designed for cap and ball revolvers, but also works great on SAA's.  I am assuming that use that on the Schofield as well?  What do you guys use?

Jared

[St. George]

Try reading through the 'back pages' on this forum, and in the 'Darksider's Den' and you should be overwhelmed with information on BP and the Schofield.

I've never heard of a 'rotary hammer block' in association with the Smith & Wesson - mine has a standard hammer block, just like all S&Ws do.

If you want to lighten the pull - polish any bearing surfaces free of high spots or burring, and back off the mainspring screw.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[jphendren]

Thanks St. George,

I got the "rotary hammer block" term from an article about the Scofield that I read; the article also stated the 6.5 lbs trigger pull.  If I recall, the article suggested that lawyers requested the heavy trigger pull to make the gun "safer."

What is a "hammer block," what does it do?

Jared

[St. George]

It's a sliding bar that keeps the hammer's firing pin from protruding through the frame.

Look at any S&W Model 10 - they're kinda obvious on those.

Instead of a too-light 3-lb trigger pull - try for a 'crisp' one that's a little heavier, and that way, you'll know that the piece is a little safer in handling, should you loan the weapon to another shooter.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Pettifogger]

Be slightly skeptical when you read articles that mention the internals of a gun.  In most cases the author may have test fired the gun but did not take it apart.  I have seen lots of erroneous information in gun review articles as the author simply rephrases what someone in the manufacturer's PR department told them.  As noted, there are plenty of threads on BP in the repo Schofields.  Basically, both S&W and Uberti eliminated the gas collar on the reproductions.  Take the cylinder out of your Schofield and take one out of your SAA and compare the fronts.  You will see the difference.  You can go through all kinds of gymnastics to fire BP in a Schofield, but they just don't like the stuff.  For example, dipping the bullets in Crisco.  Have you ever shot Crisco when its hot outside?  The stuff will drip all over your pants leg.

[Grapeshot]

I usually shoot blackpowder in my SAA's, they run it fine.  I know that part of the equation is lubing the revolver correctly for blackpowder.  I lube the base pin, and ratchet with Ayer's Pistol Grease, which is designed for cap and ball revolvers, but also works great on SAA's.  I am assuming that use that on the Schofield as well?  What do you guys use?

Jared

Well, you've started out right by greasing up the ratchet and arbor/cylinder interface.  But you will be able to run a goodly ammount of BP rounds if you use a big lube boolit.

Adirondak Jack rells them lubed with a great BP compatable lube that will keep things running smoothly.

The lube will blow around the face of the cylinder and keep the cylinder moving freely.  Have fun.