USFA Rodeo Issue

[poopapee]

I want to throw this out and see if anyone knows whether there is a "quick fix" or I need to excercise my lifetime warranty.  I was tightening the screws on the grip frame to the mainframe and was cocking my Rodeo and dry firing a little afterward.  Everything seemed normal.  Then I went to the loading notch once and instead of getting the pleasing "click click" of an SAA I got nothing but completely free spinning silence. I cocked the gun back all the way, and the cylinder had to be manually moved to get it to lock into battery.  I have dry fired this gun some but live round count is probably less than 250 rounds since I got it two years ago.  I don't fan it, and I always cock it all the way before letting the hammer down.  I was shooting with a friend last week who I think let the hammer down from the loading notch once, but there seemed to be no ill effect.  I am really bummed at the prospect of it a) not working b) being sent off to USFA.  Do any of you shadetree gunsmiths have any advice?

[Abilene]

If the cylinder turns when you aim the gun down and cock it, but does not turn when you aim upward and cock it, then the leaf spring on the hand is broken.

[Mako]

I want to throw this out and see if anyone knows whether there is a "quick fix" or I need to excercise my lifetime warranty.  I was tightening the screws on the grip frame to the mainframe and was cocking my Rodeo and dry firing a little afterward.  Everything seemed normal.  Then I went to the loading notch once and instead of getting the pleasing "click click" of an SAA I got nothing but completely free spinning silence. I cocked the gun back all the way, and the cylinder had to be manually moved to get it to lock into battery.  I have dry fired this gun some but live round count is probably less than 250 rounds since I got it two years ago.  I don't fan it, and I always cock it all the way before letting the hammer down.  I was shooting with a friend last week who I think let the hammer down from the loading notch once, but there seemed to be no ill effect.  I am really bummed at the prospect of it a) not working b) being sent off to USFA.  Do any of you shadetree gunsmiths have any advice?

?

poopapee, (I have a hard time typing that)
One of two things happened. You either broke the hand spring (not uncommon) or more likely the hand is bound.  It sounds like you had the gun at least partially apart since you were tightening the screws.  Did you just partially disassemble it, or what?  Tell us what you were doing.

It may be as simple as disassembling it and correctly reassembling it.

Regards,
Mako

[poopapee]

Sorry about the name, it's tough to find original stuff and well, you don't get a lot more original than that.  I have been having a problem with the screws loosening so I took out each of the bottom grip screws and added Loctite.  I just removed one at a time, applied the stuff and put it back in snug. I have never taken it apart and it's very clean.  While we're on this subject, I have always been pretty nervous about taking it apart.  The timing is so clean on this thing I was afraid if I did a detail strip I would mess that up.  Is that possible?

Richard

[Mako]

Sorry about the name, it's tough to find original stuff and well, you don't get a lot more original than that.  I have been having a problem with the screws loosening so I took out each of the bottom grip screws and added Loctite.  I just removed one at a time, applied the stuff and put it back in snug. I have never taken it apart and it's very clean.  While we're on this subject, I have always been pretty nervous about taking it apart.  The timing is so clean on this thing I was afraid if I did a detail strip I would mess that up.  Is that possible?

Richard

Richard,
That won't affect the timing.  BUT, if you've never disassembled one you may not want to do it the first time by yourself.  It's not hard to do but it helps to see it done once.

Do you have a pardner in the area that could walk you through it?  A lot of us strip them all of the time, especially those of us who shoot black powder.  There are simple guides out there, but it's the little things like the sequence to tighten screws, getting the hand and spring back in the slot, etc. that are the "tricks."

Try what Abilene suggested to determine if it is the handspring, or if the hand is actually hung.  The spring just pushes the hand into engagement, the second function is to act as the rotation limiter that you noted.  It keeps the cylinder from spinning free while loading or unloading.

So hold it barrel down and cock it.  If the cylinder rotates, then the spring is probably broken.

Regards,
Mako

[poopapee]

Okay, I grew a pair and took 'er apart.  Not a big deal. The hand spring is definitely broke.  I am thinking instead of sending it to USFA to let them do it and I'm out $35 at a minimum anyway, I think I'll DIY.  This gives me an excuse to buy the Kuhnhausen book and replacing the bolt spring with the Heinie type, and the Wolff reduced power hammer spring.  Any other suggestions while I am messing around with it?

[Coffinmaker]

Just a couple.  Skip the wire Trigger/Bolt spring.  You can go to VTI Gunparts and get a replacement hand spring.  While your at it, get a Pietta Trigger/Bolt spring.  Skip the Wolff main spring and either get a reduced power main spring from VTI as well or go to Brownells and get the "Lee's Gunsmithing Gunfighter" spring kit for SAA and copies.
Throw the wire T/B spring in the kit in your spares box in case you break a spring at a match or something.
I don't personally like wire Trigger/Bolt springs.  They feel mushy and often cause throw-by.

Coffinmaker

[Mako]

Listen to Coffinmaker, he's dead on...

~Mako

[poopapee]

Okay, did my repairs and everything's great.  Here's another question for you guys. On this same gun I took auto polishing compound and hand buffed it to where it looks like the current Gunslinger.  I like it, but not being one to leave well enough alone I am thinking about doing the full on antiquing using BC Plum Brown. Here's my question-BC's directions talk about taking off all bluing.  I can see that for most applications but for what I am wanting I'd like to leave the bluing that's there and do the finish on top.  Does anyone have experience with that? Am I asking for trouble leaving the original finish on there?

[Mako]

It will give it a nice patina like you would find after carrying it for years.  The problem with antiquing is that it makes I look 130 years old instead of a well used pistol in the 19th century.

Try it... There is a difference in the base finish, the  Rodeo is bead blasted.  I think you'll like the results, if you don't then strip it.  You were going to do that anyway, so try Ty browning on the black oxide first.

~Mako