My Attempt at a 6 tube Blakeslee Box

[PvtGreg]

This is what I have so far.  I'm pretty pleased with this first attempt.  I have the top and strap to finish.  Its a bit wider than the original.

I made the pocket a V fold instead of molded like the originals.  I'd also using D rings instead of square rings.  No rivets, its all hand sewn.  I'm not good with rivets.




                                      (Re-posted by Two Flints)
What do you all think?

Thanks Pvt Greg  

[Trailrider]

Great work, Pard! What did you use for the tubes?

[Two Flints]

Pvt Greg,

More details, please   Wood used, how holes were drilled, length of tubes,tube material and source?  C'mon more info!

Two Flints

[ndnchf]

Yes, what Two Flints said - more details please.  What did you sew it with?

[PvtGreg]

Additional info.

For the wood box I got a 6 ft length of 1x4 pine and cut it into 11 4x4x1 inch pieces and then drilled the holes using a template and a 3/4" Forstner bit.  My drill press wasn't long enough to drill a 12 in thick section of wood so I tried sections.  Once drilled I aligned then as best as I could and glued them together.  I then cut then to size on a table saw, ~ 2.5 x 2.8 x 12 in.  Once glued I discovered that despite my efforts the holes were a bit out of align.  I got a 12" long 3/4" spade bit and finished out the holes.  I had a lot of breakout so I ended up adding (gluing) 2 - 1/4 popular boards to either 2.5 in end, which is why the dimensions aren't true to the original.  Much sanding and cursing later the box dimensions ended up being 2.25 x 3 x 10.5 in; again not to the original, but the best I could do.

I got the tubes from Brunner Enterprises and they are aluminium.

Cat# R12.05; 3/4x .050 Round Tube

Stock# : R12.05

3/4" O.D. Tube w/ .050" wall

4 - 4 ft. lengths

$26.56 including shipping

I used a pipe cutter to cut them, initially to 12".  I forget the length they are now, but I sized then by using 7 1.62" length blanks and then cut ~ 3/4" above the top of the last blank.  Interestingly the pipe cutter slight;y crimped the ends where it cut enough for me not to have to plug the ends.  I did have to sand the other end however so the shells can go in and out.

The leather for the sides is 10oz harness leather.  I selected this because I mitered the corners and wanted enough thickness to hold the thread.  The pocket is 6oz for the front and flap.  For the V accordion folds I skeeved down the 6 oz to ~3oz.  I didn't size the leather until I had the block done.  I then stitched the unfinished pieces together and soaked it in 100 degree water and let it form.  I then took it all apart and Dyed it.

The thread is very thick, waxed white thread.  Its not cotton or any other natural fiber, but it's very strong.  Everything is hand sewn.  I used a small punch to to mark the leather where I wanted my thread holes, then I used a 1/16" drill bit in a dremel tool to actually "punch" the holes.  Saves a boat load of time.

I dyed it with midnight black water based die and let it dry for 24 hours, then I started stitching it up for good.  I put the D rings and the pocket on before I stitched the sides and bottom together.

Once everything is done I will seal the leather so the dye will not run.  I've used this same dye for my sass holsters and it works fine after you seal it.  I dyed only the outward facing sides.  Keep in mind the dye will shrink the leather some more.  I had to re-sand my block to get it to fit in the case after I dyed everything.

I have to make the top and the strap.  I 'm using a 3/4" by 6ft 6oz strap I bought from Tandy leather.  Saves a lot of time cutting straps. 

Basically everything was bought from Tandy leather - I originally bought everything for my holsters and belts, so I had the materials already.  I did buy the D rings and the strap.

If I had to guess what it would cost you to get the materials I would guess $300, but you'd have enough for about 5 boxes.

My next effort will be the 10 tube box - I think that will be easier.

Things I would do differently - I would use thicker sections of wood for the block and would NOT miter the edges of the leather, just butt join them.  I did so with the bottom and it worked out well.

I'll follow this with a true list of materials.

Pvt Greg

[ndnchf]

Thanks for the details Greg, that's a lot of work, but well worthwhile.

[PvtGreg]

Well the top's done.  Its different than the original in a few dimensions, mainly the width and the height of the block.  The cap is about 1/2" larger than the original.  BTW I used pictures from here http://www.fortdonelsonrelics.com/cgi-bin/Display_Item.asp?1059 as my visual pattern.

All in all I'm pleased.  The result is very functional.  My next project is the 10 tube box.  I expect that to be a lot easier, given the experience of this one along with the ten tube's simpler covering.