Hmmmm, been ponderin................

[Paladin UK]

Hmmmm, been ponderin................

I have always used silver solder ta fix front sights in, however I`ve heard mention of using JB Weld!! Now how would ya get enough of the stuff under the sight to make a decent bed for the stuff ta take??    secondly ordinary electrical solder!!   Have any pards used EITHER of these with any sort of success?? as I personally cant see it working/holding at all.

But l have learned over the years your never to old ta learn a different take on something!!

Paladin (What would like your take in this  ) UK 

[Coffinmaker]

PUK,

It doesn't take a lot of JB Weld.  A little dab will do ya.  It does work quite well.  The slot for the front sight must be CLEAN.  Then cleaned out again with Denatured Alcohol.  CLEAN.  Then add the JB Weld and the front sight blade of your choice.

I personally haven't tried Electrical Solder nor Plumbers Solder.  Dunno.

Coffinmaker

[Montana Slim]

If I had the equipment to silver solder (I had the skill to use it years ago, anyway), this is the way I'd go vs. JB for appropriate situations.  Exception would be sights which are presently peened or pressed in...and that would be my method of repair for those, too. Now, in those cases a drop of Loctite or JB is an acceptable addition (IMO) to the press/peen fit.

Slim

[Professor Marvel]

Ah My Dear PUK

(egads I love that moniker! are you anywhere near pook's hill, perchance?)

I actually was going to suggest that you come to Texas, but instead will relate my experiences relating to your actual questions:

>Have any pards used EITHER of these with any sort of success?


Yes















ok, sorry, yes I use and prefer solder. I used the low-temp Hi-force Silver solder until the local hardware establishment began carrying ordinary low-temp silver solder, now I use that for the most part.

However, I recently wanted to solder a sight and loading lever latch on my chopped Remmy, then a half-dime sight on my chopped (to 3 inch) 1860. I could not find my silver solder so I just used common acid-flux plumbing solder. I figured I could always redo it later when I find the good stuff.

Surprisingly,  It seems to be working just fine, which I attribute to the fact that modern solder in the US is now "lead free", and thus is very much harder than before. If it holds up to a full 6 months of shooting I will deem it "good enough"

Now, the difference betwixt acid and rosin core solders is only in the flux, a material which exists only to keep the surface of the work from oxidizing before the solder flows. Acid was common for plumbing, and mainly cheapest. Rosin was developed for electronics which were horribly eaten up by the acid over time.

In The Ancient Days the differentiation between common solders was "soft solder" (ie low melt high lead content ~ 90% lead) vs "hard solder" (ie higher temp  lower lead, high tin) and "silver solder" (rather high temp  little or no lead varying silver content for hardness) . Jewelers silver solder has no lead at all since the lead contaminates the fine metal and causes a rather terrible metallic condition known technically as "icckiness"

Now that we are "lead free" the predominant alloys are tin and antimony, which are naturally harder than lead, and stronger to boot. As a result some of the common solders now seems to be suitable for use in place of the cheaper low temp silver solders.

In fact, I recently also soldered up a broken brass coathook and the backstrap of my chopped 1860 (birdhead project) using the new lead free plumbing solder and the joint of each is surprisingly strong!

So verily, I say unto you , my dear PUK (gad I love that) get thee some lead free rosin or acid core solder and
come to Texas  have at it!

yhs
prof (puk puk puk puk puk! ) marvel

[Fox Creek Kid]

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

[Paladin UK]

Thanks one `n all ................ 

I am enlightened, and will go forth and have at it!! Bathed in the fresh knowledge ya`ll have bestowed upon this lowly cow poke   


Paladin (Whuts been enlightened  ) UK

[Jamie]

I've been a serious fan of JB weld for years, but recently had an experience that might bear relating.  I bought an H+R 32 H+R mag with nickel finish a few months ago - it was basically new and cheap, and I wanted to play with the 32 mag.  Fixed sights weren't putting the bullets where I wanted them, and so, having shot red dot sights on a hunting .45 Ruger, a target .22 Ruger, and a couple other practical guns, I decided that I'd put one on.  Trying to save money, I found a Weaver style base that was an excellent match for the barrel diameter, and JB welded it in place.  I attached the red dot, couldn't budge it with reasonable pressure and went out to try my new field gun.  One shot and the whole thing just fell off.  I cleaned and degreased, degreased, and degreased before applying the JB, but interestingly enough, it split evenly between the barrel and the mount in that half the mount contained the perfect image of the barrel in the epoxy, and half the barrel contained the perfect image of the mount in the epoxy still attached to it.  It wasn't difficult to clean the rest off the barrel when I had the chance a week later to trade the gun for an adjustable sighted version that was, again, as new.  I have no idea what the problem was, but it's the only time JB weld has failed me to date.
Jamie