Finally got up the nerve and did it

Started by Coyote Roper, April 02, 2011, 12:08:27 PM

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Coyote Roper

First off, I've been watching and reading this forum for about a year.  I've been taking all the tips and absorbing all I can from everyone on here.  You all make some amazing leather gear.

I have been acquiring some tools and piddling with leather and have made some really awful prototypes over the last year.

I finally got up the nerve to jump into a project, I wanted to make a complete setup for SASS.  It has taken me a couple weeks to complete it.  If I can get the pictures to load they will acompany this post.

After I get the pictures posted I have several questions I would love some input on how to fix or avoid some problems I ended up having during this project.

(I'm working on the photos so they will fit, they are too big)
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it!

Coyote Roper

The problems I had and would like input from the experts is:

1.  When dying the leather (especially the belt) the first coat turned out streaky and blotchy.  I tried to put the dye on evenly and smoothly.  I used wool aplicators.  I had to put on a second coat each direction and then the color was a lot darker than I wanted.  I used Fiebings oil base dye (Tan).  One area of one holster had a big blotchy, dark area when I applied the first coat of dye.

2.  When I applied the leather finish, it left bubbles on the surface no matter how I applied it.  The bubbles dried into the finish and look terrible.  I used the wool applicators for this too.  I used Fiebings Acrylic Resolene for the final protective finish.

The leather was purchased from Tandy within the last month and is 10/12 thickness.  It did not seem to have any stains or bad areas on it when I purchased it and I didn't spill anything on it.

Any tricks or hints would help me with my next project (wild bunch rig)

Thanks
CR
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it!

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

 Howdy Coyote Roper

       Welcome to our forum pard, you have done some nice pieces here, and for being new at it , you did well, the link below will give you the information you need to post pictures. Thanks for taking the first step in joining in with us, we're happy to have you with us, feel free to ask questions, and if you aren't aware of it , we have a good thread it's called "FAQ/HOW-TO - LINKS TO THREADS THAT EXPLAIN THINGS ", and you will find it at the top portion of our board in the Leather Shop. the picture issue is there also.

  http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,15416.0.html

            Regards

        tEN wOLVES  :D ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

rickk

Blotchy dye can happen (it does happen).

Feibing's dye prep applied to the leather first will make the leather absorb the die more uniformly. There  have been times when I have applied dye, only to find that the piece of leather was a nightmare as far as how it will absorb the dye. At that point in time I pull out the dye prep (while the dye is still wet even) and rub it down with dye prep. The dye prep helps the dye penetrate. You have to do what you have to do when you are working with leather. It isn't synthetic... it "does stuff", and when it does, you have to work around it.

You can dilute the dye a bit (I think acetone works with Fiebings oil base, but try a little bit first to make sure I am remembering correctly). Dilute about 50/50.

This will do two things for you.

It will make the dye penetrate better.

It will thin it out so that two coats won't be as dark as two coats of 100% dye.

Make sure the dye is dry. Don't sweat some blotchyness at this point.

I'm not sure what leather finish you are using. I use Resolene (acrylic). First I dampen a paper towel with water, and then I pour some Resolene into the damp paper towel... not very scientific or precise.... 50/50 maybe? The person who turned me on to it did it that way, and that was how the leather shop owner she worked for showed her. Anyway, I apply the diluted Resolene and let it dry (half hour should do it). Apply a second coat. Let it dry. If you arn't looking for a glossy surface that will do it. If you want gloss, keep building coats of diluted Resolene about 1/2 hour between coats.

Once the Resolene looks like you want it to, let it sit 24 hours or so.

After 24 hours it won't look as splotchy. It might look fine.

At this point I start with Neatsfoot oil. Several coats. Let it soak in and then apply some more. It will penetrate the Resolene. I don't know how or why but it does. It will restore the oils that all the dying process removed and soften the leather. At the same time, it seems like it helps distribute the dye and remove any remaining splotchyness.

Splotchyness... don't freak out about it in the first 24 hours. It tends to fade over the course of a few days.

Boothill Bob

Howdy Coyote Roper

Welcome to the forum. very nice holster, you have done a great work  :)
//Boothill Bob
Shoot fast and aim straight

SASS#83079 SWS#1246

Wolf Tracker

Howdy Coyote Roper  Welcome to the forum. That is some nice work on your rig. It's nice to see your posting. I'm in the same shoes you are. I have been on the forum for about a half year now absorbing all the knowledge that I can. I haven't posted yet but am slowly working on two rigs for me and my wife that I hope to post soon.  As far as diluting dyes I think you can use denatured alcohol or just plain rubbing alcohol for it too. And as Ten Wolves said there is a great how to section that also explains how to use natural dyes.
A man, a horse, and a dog never get weary of each other's company.

rickk

different dyes are soluble in different things. Try a little before you go hog-wild.

Acetone - Denatured Alcohol - Mineral Spirits - Water.

Coyote Roper

Thanks for the replies, very helpful.  I will try to remember on my next rig.

CR
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it!

Dalton Masterson

Welcome to the Leather Shop!! Nice first job on those holsters.
One thing I do for my dye jobs is slightly dampen the leather. I think it opens up the pores a little, and lets the dye penetrate more evenly.
I also dont use the wool daubers. I use a scrap wool piece, about 2 or 3 inches square. They hold plenty of dye, and dont leave the streaks.
Experiment a little bit, and you will do fine.
DM
SASS #51139L
Former Territorial Governor of the Platte Valley Gunslingers (Ret)
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SUDDS 194--Double Duelist and proud of it!
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SCORRS
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44 spoke, and it sent lead and smoke, and 17 inches of flame.
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Marshal Will Wingam

Welcome to the forum, CR. Your rig looks nice. I like the color. Even if the color isn't perfectly even, it'll just add a little character. To get a more even coating, try thinning it as already mentioned above. Good job. Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

SCORRS     SASS     BHR     STORM #446

TwoWalks Baldridge

Coyote Roper, dang nice looking holsters.  Now for my tired old eyes, the pics are a wee might small but the holsters still look great.
When guns are banned, fear the man with a hammer

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