A "quickie jig" for punching cartridge loop slots

Started by bedbugbilly, March 14, 2011, 08:50:53 PM

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bedbugbilly

I'm not a big fan of cartridge belts – would rather use a pouch – but decided I'd put a cartridge belt together and give 'er a try.  Who knows, old dogs can learn new tricks.   ;D  I read over the FAQ on cartridge loops – lots of good advice.  I decided to use a "woven loop".  The belt is going to be 2 ¼" wide and I cut a nice piece of 12 oz. leather for it.  I had a nice "side" of 4 ounce and I cut a long strip of it 7/8" wide for the loops.  I wanted to do a fairly "plain" belt with not a lot of embossing or decoration – strictly a "utilitarian piece" as might have been constructed in a small town harness shop on the frontier.  I chose a nickel plated clipped corner buckle for it and it will be finished in a "distressed" antique saddle tan. 

In reading the posts on cartridge loops, some were talking about utilizing a t-square to keep the slots at a right angle to the belt edge, layout lines, etc.  My eyesight isn't the best so sometimes layout lines can be a problem in the wrong light.  I devised a quick "jig" to space the holes equidistant from the top edge of the belt and each other to use with my ¾ bag punch.  I made it in a hurry and will probably eventually make several for various width belts . . . yea . . . it's sounding like I'm beginning to like the idea of cartridge belts.   :)  I tried a number of "slot spacings" and settled on 9/16".  The loops will be for 38 spl. so I determined I wanted the top of the loop ½" from the top edge of the belt.  Those things known, I sorted through my leather scraps and picked a couple of pieces of heavy, stiff leather.  I've posted some photos of the jig with this post.  The "edge" guide was glued to the top piece with contact cement and then riveted on with three rivets.  After this was attached, I laid out the larger flat piece and cut it so that the edge for the bag punch to rest against would be ½" down from the edge guide.  I then laid out the piece so that there would be a 9/16" wide "tail" running down from the edge guide area at a right angle.  You can see what I'm talking about in the photos.

I determined the "center" of the belt (where it will center over my spine) and made my first slot on that mark.  The nice thing about this guide is that it can be used to work to both the left and the right of the center line.  You just line up the edge of the 9/16" "tail" along the edge of the previous hole and then position your punch for the next slot.  I had intended to punch 24 holes for 24 loops but I stopped at 20 as I wanted to leave room for a knife sheath on the left and a loop holster on the right.   

Some of you may use a similar "jig" – everyone has their own methods.  I just wanted to post this as it's a fast, simple jig to make and it makes the slot punching go quicker without having to use a lot of layout lines.  At some  point, I'm going to make a set of these out of wood.

When I get done with the belt, I'll post some photos of it on this thread.  I am also going to post a couple of replies to this post with additional photos.  Thanks!

bedbugbilly

These two photos are as follows:

1.  The jig is positioned with the edge guide tight against the top edge of the belt.  The right side of the 9/16" wide "tail" that is at a right angle to the top edge of the belt is positioned on the "center point" of the back of the belt (which will be lined up with the spine when the belt is put on.

2.  The punch is positioned against the tail and the top edge of the punch against the edge which, in this case, is 1/2" down from the top edge of the belt.  Punch your slot and move your jig over, either left or right depending on which direction you are heading, align the edge of the "tail" against the edge of the previously punched hole and position your punch.  Punch your next hole.

Note:  Using this also included some "learning on my part".  My suggestion would be to lighty tap the chisel to make an indentation of the slot on the belt.  Remove the jig and eye it up to make sure that the slot is at a right angle to the top edge.  As wwe all know, punches sometimes "move" all on their own!   ;D :o  If the slot is at a right angle, replace the punch in the indentation and punch the hole.  If for some reason the punch "moved", put the jig back on and line the punch up again in the proper place, light tap to make an indentation and then remove the jig and punch your hole.

bedbugbilly

In these photos, the jig is shown position between two punched holes.  The tail is 9/16" wide and as you can see, the holes have 9/16" between them. It also illustrates how the jig can be used to punch slots both to the left and to the right.

The second hole shows some of the cartridge loop slots punched.  As with anything, take your time.  I (very foolishly) got in a bit of a hurry and I have a couple of slots slightly "canted" instead of being perfectly 90 degrees to the top edge.  Not enough to notice though and they will work fine.  And what the heck . . . the belt IS handmade!   ;D

A jig like this can save a lot of time when you are doing a belt with slots for the loops.  I punched the 20 slots I needed in less than five minutes using this simple jig with nothing more than the initial "center line" being marked.  A jig like this can quickly and cheaply be made from "scraps" that most of us have lalying around that we don't want to get rid of because "we might need them someday". 

Just my way of doing it.  Hope it helps someone else or gives them an idea they can improve upon.  Thanks!   :)


GunClick Rick

Bunch a ole scudders!

Slowhand Bob

Good injuneering mind Billy and I really like the idea.  Like you I am not to big into bullet loops on my gun belts but try to  add a couple or three to most shot shell belts.  (a competition thing)  I mostly prefer sewing the loops by machine but your jig would even have some application there also.  Another source for some related information is WGs belt making pattern pack which also has cartridge loop layouts for the popular calibers.  Thanks again for the ideas.

Wolf Tracker

Billy thanks for showing the jig. That is a good idea.
A man, a horse, and a dog never get weary of each other's company.

rickk

I am going to be starting a belt this weekend, and I am going to use your idea.

A though... when the "T" inside corner gets cut, maybe start the cut using the bag punch to round the inside corners and help position the punch even better.

I'll let ya know if that works or not in a week or so.

Cholla Bob

Genius ;D   and follows my favorite philosophy KISS
"I'm looking for the owner of that horse. He's tall, blonde, he smokes a cigar, and he's a pig! "

TwoWalks Baldridge

Filing this one for when I decide to make a cartridge loop belt.  Thanks for a really great idea.
When guns are banned, fear the man with a hammer

JD Alan

It looks like a slick idea to me; making all those lines is a challenge for me too. Are you weaving the strip in and out of the same hole to make your loops? I'm assuming so but thought I would ask anyway.

Thanks, JD
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Slowhand Bob

JD, due to the space being uniformly the same I would guess that the loops are pulled through at each slot rather than actually woven??   This same concept will work for hand stitching layouts on the belt also but the spacing would need adjustment.  I laminated (fancy word fer glue) copies of WGs patterns on tough paper board and punched through the pattern and leather to make templates.  They only last for a few belts but are quick and easy to make if you keep extra copies available plus I actually use 3/4" slots rather than the inch ones. 

JD Alan

That's a good idea as well Robby, though you're always full of good ideas!

I've noticed slots for loops on Will's Black Canyon rig, but I've not looked for any in his belt patterns, though I have that one, as well as everything of Will's I could find to buy.

This may be nitpicking, but if Billy was pulling the leather in and out of the same slot, then going on to the next one with the same strip of leather, wouldn't that be considered weaving?

I've not done enough loops to know. I've only made bullet slides with 5 or 6 loops, depending on what the request is. I use 3/4 slots also, (for 38) and a strip below to make the cartridge ride high and as quickly accessible as possible.   
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

bedbugbilly

JD - yes, I'm using a sinlge slot to weave the loop up through from the back side and then back down again to the back side - the sample I tried seemed to work better for me using a single slot rather than two slots for the same loop.  You have to remember that this is my first attempt at this.   ;D  I'm almost to the point on the belt of doing the cartrige loops and hopefully will have time to get them done sometime this weekend.  Basically, I'm trying to do the loops this way as it won't be long before I have to go back to MI where I won't have time to do much leatherwork.  When I get out here next winter in AZ, I do want to try one with sewn loops . . . . what I would give to have a leather sewing machine!   :)  I'll post some photos of it when I get the loops done.  Thanks.

bedbugbilly

JD - I re-read you post and maybe I am using an incorrect term when I say "woven".  I'm feeding the strip up from the back and then back down again in the same slot - I'm not using two slots per loop.  I tried that on a sample and personally preferred the method of using just one slot.  I apologize for any confusion in regards to "weaving".  I had some time this afternoon so I went ahead and did the loops and am posting some photos.  I know that this may be "old hat" to a lot of you but I'm going to post it anyway for anyone else getting ready or thinking about doing it this way.  I know there are a lot of thoughts on leaving the ends of the loop strip so it can be tightened down the road - on thise one, I chose to rivet the ends.  My slot is 3/4" and my strip is 3 to 4 oz. leather that is 7/8" wide.  I read a number of posts about using a wider strip than the slot and they were certainly right - the 7/8" worked fine and I think the appearance of the loops is better than if I had used a 3/4" wide strip.  I kept a spray bottle of water handy and would spritz the flesh side of the loop strip to keep it halfway moist.  It was 87 here in AZ today where I am and it dried out quickly.  As I pulled each loop tight, I made sure it lay flat against the back side of the belt and I inserted a 38 spl. cartridge in each loop as I did them.  I know leather swells when wet but I will probably oil the inside of the loops with olive oil when I'm done and from all appearances, the loops will be just right.  I'll post several photos in several replies.  The first ones are of the first few loops as I got started.

bedbugbilly

These photos show the cartridge loops empty.  I ran an Osborn tool along the edges of the 3 0 4 oz. leather cartridge strip loop to put a edge line along the top and bottom of the loops.  T then dyed them.  I did not burnish the edges as after looking at an original belt and some photos of originals, it appears that many of the cartridge loops on original belts were never burnished but instead, left "as cut". 

As with any projuect - as you do it you see things you'd do differently next time.  I think next time I would put the slots a little closer together.  That way, I could have gotten the 24 loops that I wanted in the space I allocated instead of the 20 I ended up with.  No real reason why I had to have 24 . . .  it just sounded like a good number?   ;D

bedbugbilly

This photo is of the finished 20 loops.  Overall, I'm real happy with the results as it's my first belt with cartridge loops.  I'd like to try sewn loops but I wouldn't hesitate to do it this way again either.  When I started this belt, I was originally going to make it a "partial lined belt" - I was just going to line the belt over the cartridge loops with some 3 - 4 oz. leather.  As I look at it now, I think I will extend the lining towards the tongue of the belt so the area where the loop holster will hang is also lined.  I'm going to make a looped holster for this rig for my New Vaquero and with the combined weight of the holster and pistol, I think it would be better it that area of the belt is reinforced a little to support the holster better.  I'll post more phots as I progress with that.

If I got anythng out of this project, it was not to be afraid of forging ahead and trying cartridge loops.  For those that are thinking about doing it for the first time, you'll find that if you plan your work out and take your time, you'll be fine.  If you have an "oh oh" - so what?  Every piece of work we do is a learning experience!   :)

And a big thanks to those of you who sugggested improvements to the jig I made/used.  As one pard pointed out, a jig like this could easily be used for laying out sewn loops as well.  Thanks much!   :)

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter


  Nice job Billy, your belt looks good, and has an antiqued and aged and distressed look to it, looks like your jig worked out just fine for, you'll fine the longer you work with leather, there will lots of little aids you will come up with to make things easier for you. Thanks for sharing your jig with us.


       tEN wOLVES ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

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