Modifications you have made to your Italian Schofield or other Break Top?

[Virginia Gentleman]

Other than new grips, what else have you done to your Uberti Schofield to make it a better shooter?

[COLT_45_SAA]

The only thing I did was to buy a extra barrel block screw
for the lift up of the barrel block when I clean the cylinder.
The Italian gorrillas put those screws in so tight intially that
the first time you clean the cylinder the screwhead gets a
little mar'd....I don't tighten that first screw real hard so
it's much easier for me to pull the cylinder for cleaning.

[Short Knife Johnson]

Both my older Navy Arms Schofield and my new #3 Russian could use some serious trigger work.  Somehow gained ownership of an original New Model Russian... now THAT'S a trigger.

Need tips on where/how to make that happen.

[Long Johns Wolf]

Removed  the lawyer safety from my Uberti Russian & pushed the front side a bit to the left to bring POA and POI closer together.
The removal of this safety significantly improved the ceeping action. Needs no further fine tuning.
In the cosmetic dept I fitted gripmakers "ivory" grips just for the good looks.
Long Johns Wolf

[Silver_Rings]

On my 3 Navy Arm's Schofields I removed the hammer block, backed out the tension screw on the main spring.

I also smoothed out the ridge on recoil shield because high primers would hang up on it and the cylinder would not turn.

SR

[Christopher Carson]

On my 3 Navy Arm's Schofields I removed the hammer block, backed out the tension screw on the main spring.

I also smoothed out the ridge on recoil shield because high primers would hang up on it and the cylinder would not turn.

SR

The Navy Arms version I've been experimenting with -- 4 digit serial number -- had no hammer block.

-Chris

[Bishop Creek]

The Navy Arms version I've been experimenting with -- 4 digit serial number -- had no hammer block.

-Chris

Yes. The four digit serial number Navy Arms Schofield that I had didn't have a hammer block either.

[maldito gringo]

/quote]
yup. kinda puts things in perspective.

[Silver_Rings]

All 3 of my Navy Arms' schofields which have 4 digit serial numbers had the hammer block. 

SR

[Christopher Carson]

All 3 of my Navy Arms' schofields which have 4 digit serial numbers had the hammer block. 

SR

Interesting.  Wonder when they changed.  This one is #95xx.

-Chris

[Silver_Rings]

My three gun are in the serial number ranges of 59xx to 72xx.  As far as I can tell it is hard to see the hammer block unless you take the side plate off.  If my memory serves me right the hammer block is behind the spring for the barrel release latch.

SR

[Christopher Carson]

My three gun are in the serial number ranges of 59xx to 72xx.  As far as I can tell it is hard to see the hammer block unless you take the side plate off.  If my memory serves me right the hammer block is behind the spring for the barrel release latch.

SR

Hmmm....

I'll check again.  I didn't see one on casual inspection, but was mostly going on what the gunsmith told me recently when I had him smoothing it out a bit.

-Chris

[Irish Dave]

The hammer block safties on my Laramies (Uberti made for Beretta) were located behind (underneath) the hammer. The side plate had to be removed and then the hammer itself in order to reach them. In the case of my Laramies, the safties had to be removed because they were preventing the revolver from firing at all under any circumstance.

[Pancho Peacemaker]

Other than new grips, what else have you done to your Uberti Schofield to make it a better shooter?

My gunsmith thinks most of these top breaks need their forcing cones recut. 

[Christopher Carson]

The hammer block safties on my Laramies (Uberti made for Beretta) were located behind (underneath) the hammer. The side plate had to be removed and then the hammer itself in order to reach them. In the case of my Laramies, the safties had to be removed because they were preventing the revolver from firing at all under any circumstance.

Hmmm...   Didn't take the sideplate off, but sure enough, nothing visible that I can recognize from looking down into the hammer raceway.

Don't think I have an exploded parts diagram...

-Chris

[Irish Dave]

CC:

You might try the VTI gunparts website. They often show exploded diagrams for the firearms for which they sell parts.

[Christopher Carson]

CC:

You might try the VTI gunparts website. They often show exploded diagrams for the firearms for which they sell parts.

Thanks, good idea. 

In the meantime, I did stumble across the "owner's manual" -- such as it is -- from Uberti.  It's only a fold-out generic single action revolver thing, with underwhelming illustrations of the two types of safeties they install, one a built-in firing pin block on the top-breaks and the other based on the depth of cylinder pin insertion.  The fact it was included suggests this one I have really does have a hammer block as folks here have described, just not huge and easily visible from the outside in the manner of Ruger revolvers.  And that mates up with the serial number info above.  Suggests my gunsmith guy was perhaps a tad imprecise when he spoke 

-Chris

[Virginia Gentleman]

One thing I did to my older Navy Arms Schofield was have the cylinder arbor polished for easier cylinder rotation and I had the Navy Arms serrated flat thumb ledge hammer replaced with a newer checkered more historically correct hammer.  From a looks standpoint it looks a lot better.