Wet Molding

Started by marine-mp, February 02, 2011, 11:01:10 AM

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marine-mp

In the "How-To" section, I was reading about mixing  "white carpenters glue" into the water that you are going to case with to mold.  I only do "concealed-carry" holsters and people like the "hard, molded" look and feel.  I get great results w/just water and air-drying, but thot this "glue" mixture might be worth a try.  Has anyone have experience with this?  If so, how much "Elmers" do you put in and will it affect a "vinegaroon" finish.  Thanks.  Semper-fi      Mike

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter


   I just use water, I've never had a need to add anything to the water, I get great results with water only.


              tEN wOLVES  :D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

bedbugbilly

I've never used anything other than water as well.  Normally, I use 10 - 12 oz. leather.  I been making quite a few holsters for semi-autos - mainly for carry on the belt.  I like them stiff as well and that weight leather has worked well.  I did make a little holster for a .380 sigsauer recently - kind of cute and it looked like a toy - I used about 8 oz. leather on that and after wet moldinng, it wasn't as stiff as I'd have liked it.  It's for a gal friend of ours and I'm finishing up a belt to go with it and will make a magazine pouch for her as well.  Normally, she'll just be wearing it for shooting at the range, etc. and not to carry concealed unless she does so under a coat.  I figure that when I have time, I'll make her another one only use the heaqvier leather.  For my single actions, I've done the same thing and had good results.  I'd like to hear as well from someone who has used the glue and mixed it in to case.  Offhand, I would think that if you cased with it, it would have a tendency to dry maybe even before you did any big anount of  tooling.  If you were just using the solution for wet molding, I can see where it might work but it also seems like it would really seal the leather and then it wouldn't take oil or such things if you were going to use them?  But, I may be way off base on that way of thinking - been wrong before - lots of times!   ;D  Hopefully somebody will shed some light on this and share their experiences???  :)

marine-mp

Thanks fellas, I normally just use water also, just thot it sounded like a stellar idea.  Hopefully, someone will jump in here that has done it. Again thanks for the answers.  Semper-fi       Mike   

Slowhand Bob

Over the years I tried a product called Neetlaq (sp) a few times.  It was a top coat that supposedly made leather waterproof, an advantage for police gear and outdoor use in extreme conditions.  When used it will render a high shine and hard surface that is water resistant but it would be used after casing to obtain the hard shell.  Though I used it a few times for some specialty items I never liked the stuff at all, its supposed advantages were all disadvantages for western leather and that was always what I enjoyed playing with.  Cowboys didnt wear plastic holsters and thats what this stuff made leather look like.  Though not a lacquer, I am thinking the most glues would tend to leave the same stark look???  I do think what you are looking for will come from allowing the leather to dry well and going light on any type of oil applications to the finished item.  Another thought, where you do not mind having a liner, it will tend to be stiffer than an equivalent weight of single ply leather and I find that thicker liners accentuate this characteristic.  example:  4-5oz under 6-7oz as opposed to 2-3oz under 8-9oz seems stiffer to me, with all else equal.

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