reloading the 44-40 in the new Colt FSS

[River Jordan]

I have aquired a new to me 2008 Colt FSS and am beginning to learn how to load for it. I have been loading 38-40 for years but the 44-40 seems to be a diiferent breed despite my expectations that it would be similar to 38WCF.

It seems that Winchester brass and a .428 bullet will chamber OK.
My question is about the shoulder. Is it a gentle taper or an abrupt shoulder?

Also, which dies are best? I have the Lee dies already.

I have some new Winchester brass that I ran through my dies to round out the case mouths and I'll be starting with some .428 SPG lubed RNFP and blackpowder.


For BP, does anyone simply shoot a full load or use a filler?

[Christopher Carson]

I have aquired a new to me 2008 Colt FSS and am beginning to learn how to load for it. I have been loading 38-40 for years but the 44-40 seems to be a diiferent breed despite my expectations that it would be similar to 44WCF.

It seems that Winchester brass and a .428 bullet will chamber OK.
My question is about the shoulder. Is it a gentle taper or an abrupt shoulder?

Also, which dies are best? I have the Lee dies already.

I have some new Winchester brass that I ran through my dies to round out the case mouths and I'll be starting with some .428 SPG lubed RNFP and blackpowder.


For BP, does anyone simply shoot a full load or use a filler?

The .44-40 and the .44 WCF are the same cartridge. (Or perhaps you meant you thought loading the .44.40 would be similar to loading the .38 WCF?)

Slug your chambers and your barrel to determine best bullet diameter.

If you're using new brass, it usually comes with no particular should, just a gentle slope.  The brass will fireform when you shot it the first time.

I use a combination of Lee sizing and powder-thru die, Redding seater die, and Lee "factory crimp die".  The latter uses a collet -- on bottelencked cases -- to press in a crimp as opposed to a roll crimp or taper crimp.  Can't say it's better, but it works.

-Chris

[River Jordan]

Thanks Chris

I did correct the post as I did intend to say 38WCF

I may try the factory crimp die

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Perhaps this photo will help. The cartridge on the left and the one in the center are my 44-40 reloads. The cartridge on the right is a 45 Colt for comparison. At least when I reload 44-40 the taper is barely visible.

The round on the left was loaded with a plain vanilla set of RCBS dies that I have been using for years. The final crimp was done with the Lee Factory Crimp Die. The round in the middle was loaded with an ancient set of Lachmiller dies and the bullet was seated and crimped in one step in the seating/crimp die.

I have been saying for years that you do not need the FCD in order to load 44-40 successfully. You just have to follow the instructions that come with the dies and set the seating/crimp die carefully.



P.S Winchester is an excellent choice for brass. It has the thinnest necks of all I have measured, right around .007. This makes it most forgiving if you need to load 'large' bullets up around .430 in diameter.

[Fox Creek Kid]

R.J., I have two of these same guns I bought in 2008 and I will be frank: they will never shoot up to their potential UNTIL you have the throats opened up. The groove diameter is probably 0.429" or a tad greater and undersized bullets will not shoot worth a damn. I had a gunsmiith who specializes in CAS open mine up to 0.4315" as well as the necks with a special reamer he has and they will now shoot ragged holes and the rounds fall into the chambers. I now use soft 0.430" bullets with real BP.

This is common on almost all 44-40 chambers and fortunately can be solved easily. The inverse, chambers too large, is far more serious. If you want the gunsmith's info send me a PM. He charges approx. $10.00 per hole.

[Christopher Carson]

Thanks Chris

I did correct the post as I did intend to say 38WCF

I may try the factory crimp die

Didn't think to add case and bullet info.  I'm using .430 bullets.  I've found Starline brass to also be thinner at the case mouths, and both Hornady and PMC brass works for me, too.  Remington brass won't work for me with the .430 bullets; rounds won't chamber.

In fact, before I started using the Redding seater die, which has an in-line seating function, slight bullet run-out from a slightly cocked bullet would often preclude chambering with the larger bullets, too, no matter which case brand.

-Chris

[River Jordan]

In fact, before I started using the Redding seater die, which has an in-line seating function, slight bullet run-out from a slightly cocked bullet would often preclude chambering with the larger bullets, too, no matter which case brand.

-

I had this happen with new brass where the bullet would get cocked and the cartridge would end up looking like a bent coke bottle. It was because the cases had never been fired so the shoulder was set back. They chambered OK but I decided to do them over and instead pulled the bullet.   

The few once fired cases that I happen to have (that were given to me) loaded up true and looked symettrical.

 

[Pappy Myles]

My 2 cents.......

I have a pair of 3rd generation colts in 44-40.   So it was a new experience loading for them as I had loaded 45 colt (straight wall)
I use a progressive (well some what) Its an older RCBS piggy back 2 with RCBS cowboy dies, star-line brass, and a lyman cast bullet 427666 sized in a star press @ 427 with SPG lube.  At first, I ended up crushing about every 3 round until I've finally tweeked the setting on the dies just right.  It took a while.  There are pros and cons to the RCBS cowboy dies, yes they are a tab more than others, the only difference i see is the neck expander expands the neck down far enought so lead bullets fit in a tad better and easier when seating.  IT took a while adjusting the crimp on the seater.  Its more of a role crimp.  I guess I went through about 20 to 25 pieces of brass until I got every thing to settle down and work.

I normally use the lube spray on the brass while sitting in the brass rack.  Just a couple of pumps, one on about 120 degree intervals works perfectly.   I use about 5.0 gr titegroup for modern powder and 30 gr of pryodex for powder.