Cleaning antique Sharps bore

[DJ]

A few years ago I picked up a M1859 Sharps 3-band rifle with what I thought was a pretty rusted-out bore.  I periodically scrubbed it out with Hoppe's #9 and brass brushes, and left it "wet" a few times, figuring I would eventually be able to get patches to come through clean.  The more I cleaned it, the more stubborn gunk came out (it's kind of blackish with hints of green that probably come from the brass brushes), and eventually some decent rifling began to appear--definitely not rusted out as I had thought.  

My challenge now is how to get the last of the gunk out of the grooves, especially the stubborn stuff that's about midway down the barrel.  I don't want anything so aggressive that it will disturb the exterior patina if I get sloppy, but I would like to get the bore the rest of the way clean.  It may never be shot again (it's somewhat collectible, being only one number off from a reported Berdan Sharpshooter gun), but I would like to get it the rest of the way clean.

So, is there a formula or technique that's safe for this old girl?  Or just lots more brass brushes, elbow grease, and Hoppe's?

--DJ

[Angel_Eyes]

DJ, when us Brits were trusted to be able to keep cartridge revolvers, I purchased a lead removal set.
It consisted of a rod onto which screwed an adjustable rubber cylinder which had a brass mesh mounted on it.
The method was to put the rod through the bore, screw on the mesh bearing cylinder, and adjust until it was a tight fit as you dragged it through the barrel.
The rubber cylinder forced the mesh into the rifling and the holes in the mesh picked up any lead, or in your case, any extraneous effluvia, (crud).
I dont know if such a thing is still available, or made for rifle-length barrels, but it seems to me that would be the easiest way to go.

AE

[Shotgun Franklin]

To make sure you've got all the old black powder out use some hot water and dish soap, be sure and rinse with hot clean water. If it's lead, my guess, get a good lead solvent.

[Blair]

DJ,

I highly recommend this stuff,

http://winchestersutler.com/ShotLoad.html#MOOSEMILK


The Percussion Sharps have two moveable parts in the breech of the barrel and the breech block that help create a gas seal when being fired.
1. is a movable chamber sleeve in the breech end (chamber) of the barrel.
2. is a moveable breech block face plate. This also serves to cut the end of the cartridge off as the block is closed.

I would recommend removing the breach block to see if this face plate can be removed. You may also want to see if the nipple and clean out screw can be removed for proper cleaning.
If you can't... the best approach it to boil the block in hot water. This heat will cause the metal to expand slightly.
Shock the block by placing it in cool tap water (which allows the parts to reduce in size) and then reheat in the boiling water. you may need to do this many times to get the parts free.

Feeing up the chamber sleeve.
Strip the gun down to just the barrel and receiver.
Place the receiver/breech of the barrel into a bucket and fill with hot water (as hot as you can stand to get your hands in). Again the hot water will heat the metal up causing it to expand slightly.
While you have the breech end of the barrel submerged in the hot water, start scrubbing the bore with a good bore brush (20 ga. shotgun brush) Push all the way through and pull all the way out.
You may need the change the hot water several times and you may also want the have a bucket of cool tap water to shock the metal like with the breech block.
You don't need any soap, oil or even the Moosemilk during this operation. All you are trying to do is free up the parts that need to be free and scrub out the bore.
Should you decide to set the project aside for a time, dry all the parts and re oil all the surfaces to prevent them from rusting. It is just going to take time and elbow grease.
Just some ideas on my part,
  Blair

[Ranch 13]

 Beebop on down to the hardware store and get a quart can of pure gum spirits of turpentine.
Then dip your brass brush in the can and give it about a dozen strokes down the tube.
Then follow up with acouple of dry patches on a jag, and a couple wet with the turpentine patches on a jag, and followed up by some dry.
Repeat the entire scrubbing process until the patches come clean.
Then run a couple wet followed by dry from the other end of the barrel, to make sure all the gunk is gone.

[DJ]

Thank you all for your suggestions.  It never occurred to me that the gunk might be soluble in water or mineral spirits.  I just assumed it would take something more caustic.  Glad I asked, as these are better suggestions than what I might have come up with on my own.

--DJ

[rickk]

Lewis Lead Remover...

I've used the handgun version and it worked great.

They make a rifle kit as well.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20823/Product/LEWIS_LEAD_REMOVER_FOR_RIFLES___SHOTGUNS

[Fox Creek Kid]

NEVER use hot water as you can't get oil in the bore fast enough to prevent flash rusting.

The best stuff for lead & carbon fouling is MPRO 7 which is commonly available and is used by the military. I use it for my smokeless guns. It is a non-toxic soap that works fantastic. Throw all that old school crap such as Hoppes in the trash. Hoppes has never been the same since they removed the benzene years ago.

http://www.mpro7.com/