Gleaning from answers on holster sequencing. Please add. Thanks, Don

[Tallbald]

I've worked this weekend and today am working to sort of sort thru all of the great information shared with me by you folks. As with learning wood working via books and magazines, I'm trying to internalize the sequence of basic (holster making) leather crafting. So far I've discerned this:

1.Draw my gun outline, oversize it by about 1/2 inch and cut out.
2. Case and tool while flat.
3. Edge glue and allow to dry (can I glue with contact cement before my project is fully dry?)
4.Square edges by sanding and burnishing, edge groove as desired, drill or punch at suture line.
5. Suture.
6.Bone cased leather, with plastic wrapped gun inserted. Let dry completely, gun in place.
7. Stain. Can I use an oil finish like neatsfoot oil, olive oil, or other over an alcohol based stain?
8. If not oiled, use a finish. I have water based finish.

I am sure I'm missing some steps. I'd appreciate any one's help. thanks again so much. Don

[knucklehead]

uhhh.

i oversize my handgun outline by  3/4" not 1/2".
then try pattern on handgun after cutting out then you can trim up the pattern as needed.
kinda hard to add paper to paper if you cut it out too much.

another way of telling out much oversizing the pattern you need is simple and surprised noone has mentioned it yet.
make a strip of leather 1" wide 12" long out of same thickness of leather that you plan on using for the holster.
add lining(same thickness as you plan on using) if you are going to line your holster.

now fold strip in half. put around the handgun sight area into the fold. wrap the strip around the handgun at the widest part, from the top strap around the cylinder to the trigger area. pinch the open ends together tightly and mark it where the straps connect. now lay flat and measure this is the amout of room you need for your pattern using the same leather thickness.
you should be able to shorten the measurement by about 1/8" to 1/4" depending on how tight you want the holster to be and how much form fitting you want to do.
I usually dye my holsters before i glue and stitch. I do the sealing after wet molding has dried.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Try this, I found some (about 1/8" thick) rubber material like a mouse pad is made from.
It bends and is just about the same thickness as 8-9 oz. leather.
The pieces I found were advertising protectors that are used to protect the painted surface on Toro Z-mowers foot deck area.

I think that material is used for counter top protectors in lots of stores and shops.

You can make patterns out of that stuff that will make up very close when made of leather. And you can cut it with a
pair of scissors staple or whatever until you are happy.

On the other questions, I have been dieing the leather in the flat (Fiebings Pro oil die) Let it completely dry and then wet and shape. dry again and then glue using DAP Weldwood contact cement. It works just great and the bond is truly like a weld.
I then drill and saddle stitch. It works very nice for me.

I use EVOO over the dried Fiebings die after sewing and before and finish is applied. Give a couple days from EVOO to finishing to let it all dry. Finish with Tan Kote or Bag Kote or whatever you like.
Have fun
.

[bedbugbilly]

A big +1 to what knucklehead said.  On revolvers, I use the standard 3/4" oversize rule as well.  When I start to make a pattern, I use paper such as copy paper.  I draw a "centerline" in about an inch or so from  the 11 inch side from top to bottom.  I carefully line up the center of the front and rear sight on the line and then gently "roll" the revolver on to it's side, making sure it doesn't move.  Then I do my tracing and make the outline 3/4" wider.  This way, I draw out half of the holster.  Then I cut the half outline out and on another sheet, make another center line.  Lining up the centerline of the cutout on the center line on the second sheet of paper, I then trace out the outline.  I overlap on the centerline so that there is plenty of paper to tape the two pieces together - centerline to centerline.  From there, I can make my outline of the front of the bucket top and go from there, depending upon if it's going to have a sewn on belt loop or is going to be a "loop holster".  Knucklehead's suggestion of the leather strip to get actual measurements is excellent!  These are just general rules of thumb.  On holsters I make for semi-autos - I've found that I use this as a starting point and then have todouble check with a strip like knucklehead suggests.  Some of the new semi-autos are such weird shapes that sometimes you have to adjust your pattern either way to make the bucket the correct dimensions so it will "wet mold" well and be tight.  You'll get the hang of it so don't get deiscouraged.  Good luck!   

[Tallbald]

Thanks so much. I'm getting the sequences straighter as I learn. A couple of questions please:

Am I correct in thinking I can dye the inside of my holster, let it dry well, then still be able to fold and  glue? Or does the dye prevent  adhesion where I will glue and stitch?

What type of oil finish would be right over a dyed holster? I like a soft black holster usually. Do I have to worry (like in some wood finishing) about the compatability of stains with  oils or topcoats?
.
Will oil or dye cause stampings to swell and lose crispness?

Thanks as always, Don

[Johnny McCrae]

As everyone has mentioned, 3/4" oversize is the dimension to use in developing a pattern.

You may want to experiment with different finishing techniques and sequences on scrap leather. This will be good practice and you will be able to develop the appearance you are looking for.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Thanks so much. I'm getting the sequences straighter as I learn. A couple of questions please:

Am I correct in thinking I can dye the inside of my holster, let it dry well, then still be able to fold and  glue? Or does the dye prevent  adhesion where I will glue and stitch?

You can dye the inside of your holster, but you'll want to seal it before sewing it up, after dry, rough up the seam line on both sides if it's a lined holsters, (finished side of leather) otherwise your good to go.
What type of oil finish would be right over a dyed holster? I like a soft black holster usually. Do I have to worry (like in some wood finishing) about the compatability of stains with  oils or topcoats?

 You can use either Neatsfoot oil or EVOO (extra virgin olive oil ) over your dye or stain, as for acrilic dyes I'm not sure, I don't use them, and you can also put a sealer /finish coat over that, pick a finish that will work well over oil, I like Bag Kote and Tan Kote, but there are others thet will work well too.


.
Will oil or dye cause stampings to swell and lose crispness?

 You shouldn't have a problem, I always let my stamping/tooling dry completely before  I dye, for me I get better results, after dry I also have no problem even when submerging my tooled leather in my natural dyes for a few days, the trick for me has been letting my stamping /tooling dry first. ALWAYS LET YOUR DYE DRY FIRST AND BUFF IT WELL BEFORE GOING TO THE NEXT STEP.

              tEN wOLVES
Thanks as always, Don

[JD Alan]

That leather strip Knucklehead spoke of works pretty well. Jim Simmons writes about it in his book on holster making

Chuck Burrows DVD is the best investment I've made so far in this venture.

I like the idea of the rubber material Chuck mentions. I'm going to give that one a try! Thanks Chuck  

[knucklehead]

That leather strip Knucklehead spoke of works pretty well. Jim Simmons writes about it in his book on holster making

Chuck Burrows DVD is the best investment I've made so far in this venture.

I like the idea of the rubber material Chuck mentions. I'm going to give that one a try! Thanks Chuck  

thanks JD, couldnt remember where i read about the strip of leather.

the book that JD is talking about i purchased from hidecrafter. check their website www.hidecrafter.com they may still carry the book. its a great book to read on making holsters. also get the video from chuck burrows, i keep watching it from time to time. great information. another good video is the one that tandy leather factory used to sell(may still sell it not sure) is holster making by dusty johnson. do a google search for dusty he does sell it on his website. course if you go to his website. you will have to check out his holster pages. he does some beautiful work.