Let's talk about glue!

[amin ledbetter]

I have been looking at the different adhesives for bonding leather. Seems in my research though one name keeps turning up. Barge! What makes it any differant than any other contact cement though? I mean, I don't know to much about contact cement other than when you put the glue on two pieces of material, then stick em together, they stick! Is there any more to it than that?? Is Barge the brand of choice by the pros?

I guess my real question is will any contact cement work?

If not what kind, or type do I need to bond leather?

( note: Most every can of contact cement I have looked at states that it will bond leather!  )

Help me out here pards!

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

 amin, I like and use Tandy's Tanners Bond contact cement, in California, Barge is only allowed to be sold in small amounts like  a small tube of tooth past, the reason they say it's  unhealthy to be around or breath, not quite sure about all that, but if I do a lot of cementing I use a respirator, while doing it, and that goes for the Tanners Bond too, otherwise it gives me a baaaad headache. I guess I'm use to what I use, and have had nothing but good results with it, Johnny McCrae uses Barge and likes it too, so you might like to try small amounts of what's available to see what works for you, When using TB, I give both sides that are being glued about 15 minutes to set up, you have up to 30 minutes usually, but where I live, it is dryer than most and sets up pretty quick, once you put the pieces together, it's a good idea to go over your leather piece and tap it down all over to get any air bubbles out and make a better bond, use a smooth headed hammer for this, one that doesn't have any dings or dents, you don't want to mare your leather, once the pieces are put together it's real hard to break them loose, so make sure you have them lined up real good beforehand.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I glued a wallet for a friend one time using Barge. The main seam came apart at the fold. I hammered the glue line after assembly. It lasted another 10 years before the leather deteriorated around the glued seam. I seldom use anything else.

[Skeeter Lewis]

PVA glue is worth a try. Being water-soluble, it can be removed fairly easily if it comes out along a seam. It won't give the very strong bond of TB, but it holds well enough during sewing.

[cowboywc]

Howdy
I've been using Barge for almost 30 years. Even though I'm in Ca. I can still get in by the gallon so I use it. Tandy's works ok, my students use it but I have to leave the room. I can't stand the smell of the new stuff, it is made by Barge for Tandy.
3M makes a real good water based contact cement with no odor but when I tried to become a dealer I had to carry everything they had. Didn't need that.
I know other people that just by whatever their local hardware store had and it worked fine and most times was much cheaper than buying any other from a leather store.
WC

[amin ledbetter]

I know other people that just by whatever their local hardware store had and it worked fine and most times was much cheaper than buying any other from a leather store.
WC

That's what I was really wanting to know WC! I know I can buy Barge in quarts for around $30.00 retail, but I can get most other brands at my local hardware store for around $15.00 a quart. I was wandering if the extra $15.00 was worth it or not.

[ChuckBurrows]

Dap 00272 Weldwood The Original Contact Cement - $7.95 a quart at my local Wal-mart

I've tried them all, including Barge, Tanner's Bond, and other contact cements made specifically for leather and after several side by side tests I've yet to find any that work better than the DAP and for the price - in my experience it can't be beat..............

[Slowhand Bob]

I have tried Barge a couple of times through the years and thought it was great in some respects but 'not so' in others.  Places like sewing seams and other small spots I do ok with it but always feel rushed when doing larger areas such as linings on medium to large glue projects.  Its like it does not want to spread as well/quickly as does the white glues and needs to much thinning to work with quickly?

[Johnny McCrae]

Howdy Amin,
I have had good results with Barge. As Marshall Will and TW have mentioned, you need to tap the two pieces with a hammer after assembly.

You may want to experiment (test) small quantities of different manufacturer's cements to find what works best for you.

[Springfield Slim]

I don't line anything so I have never needed a permenent bond cement, just something to hold well while I sew it. So I go with the DAP contact cement also. Didn't like the Tandy glue for this purpose, took too long to dry enough to use. The Dap is ready within a couple of minutes, but you can still remove it if you really have to. Less messy than the Barge's also. And I can buy the little 3 oz jars at most Hardware stores. 

[Irish Dave]

I've been using Master All-Purpose Cement for several years and find it to be an outstanding product. It's very common in the shoe repair/cobbler trades and sets medium fast, is very stong and yet remains flexible.

My only criticism is that it tends to thicken in the can and needs to be thinned periodically. Otherwise great stuff.