Cylinder Scratches

[kflach]

I've got scratches on my cylinder. It's the standard blue one on an 1858 Remington NMA. What is the best way to fix them?

[St. George]

They're from the locking bolt.

You 'could' try stoning it 'absolutely' smooth - but don't play with the factory angle - just make certain that it's smooth.

Anything more than that, and you need to get a copy of Dave Chicoine's 'Gunsmithing the Guns of the Old West' - and go slowly, because we're talking about 'timing', now.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[kflach]

Are you referring to stoning the cylinder or the locking bolt?

The gun the cylinder belongs to is my brass-framed 1858 Remington which is being retired (I got a brand new steel-framed one for my birthday this week). Both my new and old guns are Piettas and I've checked and confirmed the old cylinder fits into the new gun so I now have a spare cylinder if I need it. That being the case, I'm just looking at fixing the aesthetics of the old cylinder.

I have the 'ring' scratches around the cylinder that would be from the locking bolt, but I also have a few others on there from just plain using the gun hard.

If I stone the scratches on the cylinder, wouldn't I still have to put something on it to make it blue again?

[St. George]

Stone/polish the locking bolt - that's what's causing the scratches.

If you want to color the bright metal of the cylinder - first clean the cylinder of oil and/or grease - then get one of the 'Cold Blue' products and follow the directions.

Use sparingly and use a Q-Tip - then oil.

It'll color the scratch, but it isn't permanent, so you 'will' be touching it up once in awhile.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[kflach]

Oh, OK.

That's the info I was looking for. Thanks!

[Montana Slim]

It's pretty much normal on a NM Remmington...Base don the firearm design and depending on how you install & remove the cylinder, and if you occasionally load six at the practice range. Search for my posts in the Dark Arts or Remington forums if you care to read on.

Persoanlly, I don't bother touch-up it won't last...why kid myself 

Regards,
Slim

[kflach]

Montana Slim,
The gun that goes with that cylinder is becoming a "wall hanger." This stuff should last under those conditions, right?

[Montana Slim]

Montana Slim,
The gun that goes with that cylinder is becoming a "wall hanger." This stuff should last under those conditions, right?

Possibly....depends on whether it ever gets handled. 

A gun with honest wear is still great for display...maybe more-so for a C&B...no safe-queens need apply 

A cheap silver plate kit could have a use on this piece as well. See the gunsmithing forum.

Regards,
Slim

[St. George]

If you apply the cold blue as instructed and then oil the piece - the color will last.

Handling it and cycling it will cause it to show up again.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[kflach]

Thanks!

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Kevin, there's a difference between Colt revolvers (the 1873 model) and nearly every other brand.  A properly tuned Colt, that has never been MIS-handled is the only gun - that I know of - that doesn't scratch the cylinder and give it a "ring."  This doesn't much apply to Colt C&B guns or their replicas.

A colt, if put to half-cock, then the trigger pulled slightly to allow the hammer to lower WILL give the characteristic scratch.  This happens usually after loading, where the hammer is at half-cock, loaded, then pulling slightly on the trigger to let the hammer down.  The correct procedure - for a colt, and it doesn't hurt OTHER guns, either, is:

Thumb hammer to H-C then open loading gate;
Load one - skip one (if you don't need 6 as the great John Wayne explained) then load four;
Then pull hammer back to full cock;

Only THEN do you carefully squeeze (or crudely pull) the trigger to let the hammer down on the empty chamber.


VOILA!  No scratches on your new Colt cylinder!  (Or USFA, Uberti, AWA, whatever CORRECT and AUTHENTIC copy you may have.)

[Kent Shootwell]

Mister Bailey is spot on as to correct handling of single action revolvers! Another reason to fully cycle the action is lowering the hammer from half cock forces the bolt arm to ride over the cam on the hammer. That will damage both parts and in time one or both will need replaced. When fully cycled the bolt arm slides past the cam's front as intended then as the hammer comes down the bolt arm engages the angle of the cam to smoothly slide over it and snap back in it's place for the next shot. That wear inceases the drag of the bolt on the cylinder and you get scratches. At the loading bench I've seen many folks lower the hammer from half cock then hand turn the cylinder to lock up. The bolt drags.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

  +1  more for what Kent and Steel Horse have pointed out, if you do this practice always, you won't have to worry about rings around the cylinder, on your 1873 SAA.

[kflach]

I'm a Remington shooter...

Thanks though.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

In that case, Kev, learn to live with it.  It shows that your piece has a happy, well-loved and lived-with look.   

[kflach]

;-)