In Desperate Need of pictures of a Hinged Cylinder Pin

Started by Dalion, April 14, 2010, 01:18:15 PM

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Dalion

Howdy Pards.

I need to find good pictures and a description of how a jointed cylinder pin for an 1858 Remington is made.  I have found a gunsmith/machinist who is willing to make one up for me for my 5 ½ inch barreled Pietta pistols.  Also if anyone has an extra Pietta cylinder pin they can sell I would be extremely appreciative.  VTI is out of them and are on back order.  Thanks again.

Shootist Dan

Sir Charles deMouton-Black

NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, "History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."

Cookie

Have you tried Dixie Gun Works for the new cylinder pin? I don't know if it's in stock, but they do carry Pietta replacement parts.

Dalion

Thanks Cookie, I'll give them a call in the morning.  Sir Charles, that is pretty cool, but how I need to keep the loading lever.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black

If you are doing a cartridge conversion, the rammer would be optional.  If you keep it as percussion, then you might need the rammer, but you could use a loading stand.  See Dastardly Dicks product line.

I cut my Pietta to 6 3/4 inches.  This is just ahead of the rammer and no changes are required.  It balances like a 6.5" Blackhawk.  In McDowells book, the only cut down Remmie conversion was to this length.

If you are cutting down to 5.5" or less and want to retain the rammer, then hinging is a solution.  I havn't done it but the photos I recall show;

-Cylinder pin cut at a length where the joint would be hidden inside the frame when assembled.
-Slots cut in both parts, and holes drilled for retaining pins.
-A "link" of flat steel drilled for a pin near each end.  Ends are rounded a bit to keep it neat.
-Assemble, and peen the pins slightly to keep them in place.
-The rammer is cut and the spring retainer is re-set. It might take some figgerin' to get the length.
-The rammer lug is re-set to retain shortened rammer in the assembled firing position.

Sorry, no Piccies, but I know they are about somewhere.

As I recall, Uberti sights and rammer lug are used as they are dovetailed in.
NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, "History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."

Dalion

Sir Charles I appreciate the description of the process. It helps quite a bit.  Allow me to expand on my situation.  I bought a pair of Pietta 1858 New Army Percussion pistols with 5 ½ barrels.  They both shot superb groups but one shot its groups a bit to the left.  After inspection I found that the barrel was off by about 1 ½ degrees.  No problem I had to deal with that issue before on my old Ruger Vaqueros.  So I went down to my local gunsmith and asked him to regulate the sights.

Well the barrel would not turn any more it is solid against the receiver.  So he calls me and tells me that to pull the barrel he has to remove the cylinder pin.  But he can't because the loading lever retaining stud on the barrel is on there to stay.  He would have to cut it off to get the barrel off.  I answered well I'll just call VTI and get an extra cylinder pin and a Uberti dovetailed loading lever retaining stud.  Except that as I mentioned VTI is out of both.  So I have been waiting to hear from VTI now for about 4 weeks.  I went in to drop off my shotgun for some work and the machinist that works with my gunsmith was there and we started to talk about the pistol and I mentioned the hinged cylinder pin idea and he said he would do it.  He has an idea of how to do it but he would like a picture/pictures just to confirm.  If he can do it I will have him do it to both of my pistols.  I am not converting these pistols so I need the loading lever. 

Thanks. 

Shootist Dan

Raven

I have a cylinder pin I can sell you for the same price that VTI sells it for + shipping

The easiest way to deal with your problem is to cut the head off the cylinder pin in the gun. Once you have it out you can use a dremel tool to cut a bevel into the loading lever channel so that the new pin can start in at an angle and then straighten out. It is very easy to do. We do this in the Kirst Custom Shop to install Kirst Ejectors in Piettas with short barrels.
Call if you have questions 254-248-0663

Raven

Sir Charles deMouton-Black

Dalion;  Copy the first four steps I posted above.  Your gunsmith will understand.  If some thought is taken as to exactly where to cut, the cylinder pin can be cut right on the gun and proceed later to re-join with the oval link I tried to describe.


P.S.  Just read RAVEN's post.  He IS a gunsmith so listen to what he says.
NCOWS #1154, SCORRS, STORM, BROW, 1860 Henry, Dirty Rat 502, CHINOOK COUNTRY
THE SUBLYME & HOLY ORDER OF THE SOOT (SHOTS)
Those who are no longer ignorant of History may relive it,
without the Blood, Sweat, and Tears.
With apologies to George Santayana & W. S. Churchill

"As Mark Twain once put it, "History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme."

Montana Slim

I bobbed my own NM Remington to 4" some years ago (before buying them was an option).
There is just enough clearance to remove the cylinder. That is what I was aimin' for.

Anyway, In all these years shooting it, I've found no need to remove the cylinder pin.
A wipe down with a damp rag and a bit of lube is all it needs after shooting. No rust, nor other issues.

Regards,
Slim
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warbucks16

Dalion:

I have a pin left over from a previous project when I cut an 1858 barrel down to 4 1/2 inches to make me a gunslinger.

If still in need, let me know and i will drop it in the mail.

Warbucks16







SASS Member
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Qball

WartHog
SCORRS
SootLord
STORM

warbucks16

Qball

No, sorry that is the only one left, however if Dalion lets me know that he doesn't need it any longer I will be glad to send it to
you?

Regards,

Warbucks16
SASS Member
Storm Member #201
Scorrs Member
Retired Navy Senior Chief Hospital Corpsman
Marine Recon and Jump Qualified
Vietnam Viet 70-71 and proud of it!
Member NRA
45 Cowboy Special User.

Qball

Quote from: warbucks16 on April 25, 2010, 12:16:56 PM
Qball

No, sorry that is the only one left, however if Dalion lets me know that he doesn't need it any longer I will be glad to send it to
you?

Regards,

Warbucks16


Sorry, i'm bad at expressing myself  :-[
What i ment was have you used two cylinder pins for the making of one?
WartHog
SCORRS
SootLord
STORM

warbucks16

 Yes, it took two to make the one, but it was not that difficult after I discovered the easiest way to do it.

It did take several attempts to get it right.

Thanks for asking.

Regards,

Warbucks16
SASS Member
Storm Member #201
Scorrs Member
Retired Navy Senior Chief Hospital Corpsman
Marine Recon and Jump Qualified
Vietnam Viet 70-71 and proud of it!
Member NRA
45 Cowboy Special User.

Qball

Thank you sir.
I have been thinking about reattaching the loading rams on my 5" Remingtons
But .... i don't know :-\
WartHog
SCORRS
SootLord
STORM

warbucks16

Qball:

You might want to look at the Kirst Richards-Mason style shell ejector for the Remmy 1858.  You can see it on the Kirst Web site by VTI at www.Kirstkonverter.com  or on the Buffalo Arms website at www.Buffaloarms.com .

The spring type ejector is attached to the cylinder pin and they work like a charm.

I have two 58"s with them and have been really pleased.

Warbucks16
SASS Member
Storm Member #201
Scorrs Member
Retired Navy Senior Chief Hospital Corpsman
Marine Recon and Jump Qualified
Vietnam Viet 70-71 and proud of it!
Member NRA
45 Cowboy Special User.

Qball

Thank you Warbuck, but i'm a C&B type of guy.
No need for shell ejector on my guns ;D

However, i did find two extra cylinderpins.
Would you like to tell me how you did the cut on your hinged pin?
WartHog
SCORRS
SootLord
STORM

warbucks16

Qball:

Glad to, I did the cutting with my Dremel and assorted cutters and burrs and drilled  the hole on my Craftsman Drill Press after starting the hole with a pointed burr so the drill bit wouldn't wonder.

The most important thing I did was to lock my dremel in a vice to where it wouldn"t move and then move the pin around holding it in my hand with a protective leather glove. It took several pins to get the technique right.

After cutting and drilling I joined the two parts together with a roll pin and had a local auto supply shop blacked them for me.

If you would be interested I still have the one extra and I will send it to you at no charge if you would like to see it close up.

If interested E-Mail me your address and I will put it in the mail.

Warbucks16
SASS Member
Storm Member #201
Scorrs Member
Retired Navy Senior Chief Hospital Corpsman
Marine Recon and Jump Qualified
Vietnam Viet 70-71 and proud of it!
Member NRA
45 Cowboy Special User.

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