Jags & Patches

[kflach]

When cleaning my '58 Remmie, I fold a 2 in x 2 in. patch and slide it into a jag (?) similar to the one on top in the attached picture. It sticks out both sides but since it's thin cloth it fits very loosely in my .44 barrel, and the chambers of my cylinder. I end up with the patch stretched out thin and am not able to scrub very hard. Also, the cloth flips around and I end up rubbing the surface of the gun with the metal of the jag.

I've noticed another type of cleaning jag that's available. It's the one on the bottom of the picture. I have no idea how it works but I don't think you'd just stuff it down a barrel and rub metal against metal.

Is the second jag some kind of specialized thing meant for only certain types of guns or is it something I should be using on my revolver? How does it work?

If the one I'm using is the correct one, Is there a specific way to fold my patches 'thicker' or something so it fills the barrel (and chambers) more tightly so it'll scrub the insides better?

[Jefro]

The other kind looks like a quick connect end to Gunslicks cable. They sorta copyed the Otis System. I've been using the Otis 'breech to bore' cleaning system for years. Instead of pushing a rod from the bore to the action, the plastic coated cables are pulled from 'breech to bore', never pushing debris into the action. The all caliber patches create a 360 degree cone cleaning the entire bore, not flopping and stretching like a regular jag. Bore snakes can also be used breach to bore, but I only use them after I've cleaned the gunk out with the Otis system. I can throw away a nasty patch, but I have to clean a bore snake. They make a great cleaning combination. Check out the "How To's" video clips from Otis. Good Luck.
http://www.otisgun.com/

Jefro

[john boy]

I've noticed another type of cleaning jag that's available. It's the one on the bottom of the picture. I have no idea how it works but I don't think you'd just stuff it down a barrel and rub metal against metal.

Kflach, the 'other jag' is a brass ribbed jag with a half moon cut out at the end.  They are usually 8-32 thread and screw into the end of a rod after any other type of brush or jag has been removed.

They are the only jags I use.  As for patches - forget them.  Just buy a bag of cotton balls for 2 bucks.  Cotton has the fibers that go every which way and get into the grooves better than patches.  Plus they are absorbent and patches are not

Harry Pope mentioned using them in one of his historical articles and that was enough for me to try and start using them

[Deadeye Dick]

The round jag is for putting the patch over the jag and pushed down the barrel. It falls off at the other end. It gives better patch to barrel contact. I use the slotted jag to wet down the bore and the round jag to do the final cleaning.
Deadeye Dick

[44caliberkid]

Yep, buy a 45 caliber one, put a wet patch over the end and stuff it down the barrel.   Works great.  I usually pre-scrub the bore with a 45 cal. copper or nylon brush with soap and water.  Never need more than two patches to finish.

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Don't use a patch if you have caked on powder fouling. Use a bronze bristle brush. Patches are not meant to be used to remove hard fouling. Patches are for carrying liquid through the bore, not for scrubbing. If you have hard fouling that requires aggressive scrubbing, loosen it first with a bronze bristle brush soaked in your favorite water based BP cleaning solution, then follow up with a wet patch to remove the loosened fouling, then a dry patch to soak up the cleaning solution. Repeat as necessary.

Frankly, if you need to do that much scrubbing, you are probably doing something wrong. I seldom use a bristle brush when I clean my rifle, although I do use them in my revolvers. Just a couple of quick, twirling strokes is usually all that is needed. Be sure you are using enough soft bullet lube to prevent hard fouling from forming in the first place.

In your photos, I call the thing at the top the Slotted End of the cleaning rod. I stick a patch through it, and then dip the patch in my favorite water based BP cleaning solution to soak it down. The lower photo is a jag. No, it is not meant for metal to metal contact. Jags are sized so that when wrapped with a cloth patch of the correct thickness, the patch will make contact with the bore. There should be no metal to metal contact.

[Dick Dastardly]

Start with the bullets.  Shoot bullets that carry lots of lube.  Then, come cleanup time, a spritz of moosemilk and a tug of the boresnake and yer good to go.  I just finished cleaning my guns after the last match.  Under Fifteen minutes and my guns are sparkling clean.

So, enjoy the black powder, the white smoke and the lovely hot flames.  Then, when the match is done, clean up quick and easy.  If I can do it, so can you.  It's not about jags, patches, brushes or scrubbing.  It's about engineering out the problem before it exists.

Remember, LOTS OF LUBE = EASY CLEANING & NO HARD FOULING. . . . EVER.

DD-DLoS

[Sgt.Jake]

   I use Big Lube tm bullets and what Dick said is rite on the money. I tend to be a slow cleaner,kind of enjoy cleaning the guns. I know Im sick,every so often get talked into cleaning other pards guns. Takes me no more than 30 minutes to clean two pistols,rifle and the shotgun. Shoot all day long, not foul the guns out and clean up is a snap,whats not to like.           Adios  Sgt. Jake

[kflach]

Thanks for all the info! I'd ordered a boresnake, but I shot my gun before it arrived. After seeing all the black fouling, when the boresnake finally came I was hesitant to use it because I figured it would also be a real mess to clean.

I bought a jag yesterday at the range and used it last night. It was much easier to work with than just the Slotted End.

I haven't had problems with hard fouling, but I wipe down certain parts of the gun every few cylinders both at the range and during matches. It's easy and gives my brass frame a little time to cool so I figure it doesn't hurt anything. I spritz the cylinder pin and the hammer channel (I think that's what it's called) and then wipe them both off with a patch. When I'm finished shooting for the day I've also been spritzing and running patches through the bore before I pack up and go home.

I really appreciate the info ya'll are sharing. I grew up learning a lot of great stuff from my folks and other people, but how to take good care of a revolver wasn't part of it.

[Sgt.Jake]

Dont be afraid to get your bore snake dirty,they clean up quick and easy. I just use an old cottage cheese container,full of hot water and a squirt of dish soap,let soak for 15 minutes or so, swish around or cover and shake container. Rinse under hot running water, hang dry over night,good as new. I shoot often and usually get a couple of years out of my snakes before they need replacing. I prefer the Uncle Mikes bore snakes over the Hoppes brand,two years ago me and a couple of pards could only find the Uncle Mikes brand and found them better,more and stiffer bristles and thicker body of floss= better job of cleaning, JMO     Sgt. Jake

[Fox Creek Kid]

Bore Snakes are better for BP than smokeless IMO as you don't have to use harsh chemicals and BP washes right out. I'm with Driftwood on this, that is if you have hard caked fouling then you're merely wasting patches until you loosen the fouling up with some sort of liquid & a bronze brush. I will add that several BPCR shooters put a wet patch OVER a bronze brush to run down the bore.

[Dick Dastardly]

Howdy Kid,

That bronze brush may poke thru the patch material.  If it does that, it's going to work as floss while your brush does it's thing.  Only problem I've ever had with that solution is that it takes a while to get all the patch stuff out of the brush. . .

The Hoppe's Bore Snake has a similar situation in that it's brushes poke thru the snake body.  I like to use a lot of moosemilk before I pull the Bore Snake thru.  The Bore Snake is mostly floss to my cleaning.  The copious quantity of lube from my bullets have prevented any hard fouling and what little there is washes out easily.  The Bore Snake merely makes the bore pretty, shiny and very clean.  The microscopic residue of Moosemilk looses it's water and the Ballistol remains behind.  Thus, my bore is both clean and protected.  I have happy bores. . .

DD-DLoS

[Pulp]

One thing I learned the hard way: If you use Sweetshooter cleaning and preserving products, do not use a bronze brush.  Use a stainless brush.  Sweetshooter is designed to remove copper fouling, and a brass or bronze brush contains, yup, you guessed it, copper.

I was treating the barrel on my '92 with Sweetshooter, fire one round, clean, repeat.  I kept getting black crud on the final patches.  I called the company and they told me I was dissoving my bronze brush.  I did notice it stayed shiny the whole time.

I don't see Sweetshooter mentioned here much, so I reckon I'm the only one using it, but I do recommend it.  No, I do not sell it, nor own stock in the company.