Awl Blades and Needles

[mtgelaude]

I am getting ready to purchase an Osborne Peg Awl Shaft and some blades.  But I do not know which awl blade to get?  I have read Mr. Burrows wonderful  tutorial on stitching leather, and it says to use a Diamond shaped awl to punch the holes in the leather, but I am not sure what is what.  I have been breaking needles all over the place.  I broke about 8 needles (all at the eyes) and I think that the an awl will help solve this.
I am looking at the Osborne Saddlers Stitching Awl, and a Saddlers Harness Awl, and there are like 6 different lengths for each.  What is the difference, and what would you recommend.  I do not do saddles or anything  heavy like that, I do knife sheaths, holsters, and that kind of thing.  Also, I prefer 5 cord thread, is there any advantages for different needles, depending on what kind of awl blade you use? 
Thanks for the help
Matt.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Mat

     I switched to Harness needles a while back, and that is all I use now, I had the same problem with needles breaking, I haven't broken a harness needle yet, I use an Osborn awl, , I have two of them,and they work just fine, I also use a 5 strain thread, give the harness needles a try, I use the large eyed one, you can get them at any Tandy store. Also when using your awl, make sure you go far enough in with it to open the hole up, or you will have too small an opening for your needle. Another thing I use is a 2" piece of bicycle inter tube, this works great when you have a hard to pull through needle, or needle nose pliers for the really hard stuff, I also used a small rubber ball that I cut the end off to make a flat surface, hold this to the back of your leather, to keep the Awl from puncturing your fingers or hand, when you sit it down, it won't roll away, because of the flat spot, the flat spot is what I hold up to the leather.


 


             tEN wOLVES

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

I have tried "glover's needles".  They have a larger eye, but I have to dull the tips so I can use the two needle system without getting within the thread strands.

[mtgelaude]

yeah, I still have afew harness needles left.  If I remember right, some of them broke too.  I have read a bit about the blades, but am still not sure what to get.  And it says that the need some prep work,your thoughts?  I think 1 1/2" seems like a good idea.

[Slowhand Bob]

I do not do lots of hand sewing anymore but do find that for small jobs that do not call for a machine I did start using Chuck Burrows needle and awl recommendations pretty close.  My favorite awl blade is the short (small) one and I do frequently stab a wax block with it frequently before punching.  This would probably not work really well with main seams built up substantially with fillers or other equivalent thicknesses.  You might try a slightly longer awl blade for these applications.

Before I stopped hand sewing I was using the diamond stitch punches to lay out and punch holes which leave a much bigger hole than does an awl.  With these you could even get away with using the cheap Tandy large eye kit needles.  These larger holes can be closed pretty well after finishing with some seam tapping/rolling and even close up pretty well on their own.  These needle do have very fragile eyes and I have never had much luck with them for awl punched holes but are ok with the big kit punched holes and the almost as large diamond punched holes mentioned.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

           mtgelaude, how thick is the leather you're trying to sew?

[mtgelaude]

Well, on my sheaths I sometimes use 3 pieces of 7/8 or 8/9 Oz leather.  On my Holsters, I have not done any with a welt yet, but two layers of 8/9 or 9/10 Oz.  I do not do lined holsters yet.  It is not anything really thick.  Also, I do the two needle stitch method, which does not really mean anything as far as punching the holes goes.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Well, on my sheaths I sometimes use 3 pieces of 7/8 or 8/9 Oz leather.  On my Holsters, I have not done any with a welt yet, but two layers of 8/9 or 9/10 Oz.  I do not do lined holsters yet.  It is not anything really thick.  Also, I do the two needle stitch method, which does not really mean anything as far as punching the holes goes.
[/quote

  If you're having trouble getting your awl through all layers, try making your front stitches with a stitch marker, I like the #5 or #6, it just depends on what I'm making, but # 5 on sheaths and holsters, what you can do then is make your holes with your awl or a stitching chisel on the front piece only, then when your seam line is cemented, you will only have one thickness of leather to go through with your awl.

  When I sew real thick leather, the type where I use a welt, I use a Osborn Stitching Chisel, ( same as above), punch my front piece of leather and then when cemented, I will use a 1/16" drill bit in my Dremmel tool, and drill the rest of the hole through this way, you then just need to watch your angle, so you end up in the stitch groove in the back.

                         I hope this will help you, when sewing thick leather we have to use different methods than norm,

                                                    tEN wOLVES 

[Chuck 100 yd]

I am building a set of holsters now that are made of 6-7oz. leather laminated to 3-4 oz leather.
the main seam has a 8-10 oz. welt added. That main seam is over 1/2" thick. I drilled the holes using a #55
drill bit (slightly smaller than 1/16") and enlarged the holes using the small diamond saddle stitch awl.
I use size 0 needles and four strand linen waxed thread. This works out well and looks good. Using nitrex gloves helps to grip the needle and thread so it sews easily by hand and no pliar or thimble is needed.  I have never broken a needle. I have bent a few but they straighten easily . 
Have fun!! 

[mtgelaude]

Actually, I do have a single hole chisel that I bought.  But I swear that the holes are not large enogh or something, because I still have a problem getting needles to go through, and I keep breaking the eyes of needles, while they are in the leather.  I think that the holes are not big enough.  Is it ok to skip using a awl and just use a chisel? 

[Slowhand Bob]

There is a diamond stitching punch and there is a 1/16" stitching chisel, the diamond punch opens a pretty big hole while the chisel does not.  I was using the diamond punch to get through one layer of 8to9 oz leather on top but chasing through that to punch any additional layers with the awl.  The two situations where I would have most trouble with needles breaking in the body were when pressure was not applied straight, thus flexing the needle, or when I tried to prepunch holes in multiple pieces before the glue and stitch (also causing flexing due to slight misalignments).  It almost seems instinctive for me to add a slight twist of the wrist for a tighter needle grip when pulling through tough leather on the reverse side and it will frequently pop the needle.  The eye being the weakest point of the needle would probably make it even more likely to break there with anything less than straight pressure while it passes through.  Try to add a bit of extra wax there to see if it helps.  You may never stop this problem completely but you will eventually get past it being a common occurrence with a bit of practice and grip strength.

[rickk]

An Osborne #54 diamond awl point would be a good choice to start with in your awl shaft. Get a couple, just in case something goes wrong and you break one (ya, it can happen).

Keep it sharp... a few rubs on a fine stone on each side before each use should do it. Some people rub beeswax on it as well. I have tried it both ways and not sure if I can see a difference.

Make sure you understand the pattern you are trying to punch. 

They want to be sort of like this --->   \ \ \ \ \    .

If you make them like this --->>>    - - - - -      They will rip thorough the leather.

I mark my handle on the top with a pen so that I know what direction the awl is facing from the top.

You may need a poundo bord or something similar to back the work up when you pierce the work.... it all depends on your technique. If you have a stitching pony that holds the work tight right near the stitch line you can just push it through.

To each his own, but I use round point needles with the thread. The awl makes the hole, so the needle does not have to be sharp. A rounded point saves lots of wear and tea on one's fingers 

Rick