Templates for Belt Ends?

[JD Alan]

Howdy guys. I'm in the process of making some belts for holsters, and shotgun belts. Each time I do this I seem to go through the same process of sweating out cutting the ends properly. I make a template of sorts from a manila folder, but it's still a bugger to make it look nice and even. I realize this is a newbie issue, but I'm still in that category.

The gun belts are 2 ½ inches wide, tapering to 1 ½ to fit the buckle. I'm making the shotgun belts 2 inches wide, with 1 ½ inch buckles. I've yet to make a ranger type belt, but that's coming too real soon.

Is there a "Standard method" most guys use for this sort of thing, or do I just keep hacking away until I get better at it? I would appreciate your expertise, JD     

[FEATHERS]

G'Day Pastor,Take a look at eightbits.home.att.net & see if this helps you out.Feathers

[cowboywc]

Howdy JD
You can buy one of the belt end punches.
WC

[Skeeter Lewis]

If I'm making a round-ended billet, I look for a round flat object of the right diameter I can use as a template and scratch around it with an awl.

[JD Alan]

Once again I've not done a good job of explaining myself. I appreciate the feedback so far. Feathers, Eightbits is a great source of ideas, and I have used the ideas from that site before, but thanks for reminding me, as I went there again and it helped.

WC, I bought a belt end punch, and a bag punch, and they are both a big help.

Skeeter, that's a good idea, using a round object to make smooth lines.

Below is a picture of a belt I made a while ago, which is what I was asking about. Each time I do that it just seems to take forever to get it laid out and cut correctly, and I usually make some mistakes and have to start over. That's why I cut belt blanks so long!

Looking at the belt again, I realize I could use this one to make a pattern for the others, but I wrote the question out before considering what I had made before. I ought to learn not to write things so late (For me)

[cowboy316]

hey there JD belt looks sharp and what id do from there if you like that design id find ya some stiff plastic and then trace your belt end and then cut it out of the plastic and there ya go you got your template that wont get all out of shape like it you did it out of cardboard  ive used cardboard and after awhile it gets worn and then you loose your sharp line so i think a plastic of some kind would work just dandy but just my $.02 worth hope this help bud
Cowboy316

[cowboywc]

Howdy JD
Are you talking about getting your tapered ends right, not the tip?
I use heavy poster board for patterns. Get the pattern to your liking and then you can use it over and over.
WC

[JD Alan]

That's a big part of the issue WC. That and consistently getting the slot and holes placed correctly for the buckle. I've got a shotgun belt promoted by a very well known shooter, and the tapering on the belt is anything but symetrical on either end, so I guess it's not that big of a deal. I guess I was wondering what everyone else does to make these things without a lot of hassle. Thanks again WC. As usual, you always come through.      

[Ned Buckshot]

When I began making a lot of belts (many moons ago ) I made up a couple of standard patterns out of 1/8" plexiglass.

They don't get chewed up like a posterboard template. Takes some time to make but in the long run I think it saves time.


Ned

[JD Alan]

What did you use to cut the plexi that thick Ned? I was thinking along the lines of plastic the thickness of Craftaid material, but come to think of it, we have a plastics place not to far from here, and they might be able to cut some templates out from my drawings or demensions. I'll have to check that out.

I've been in the shop laying out some templates on paper, then transferring them to poster board, ala WC.

Thanks for the idea Ned, that's a good one. JD

[Ned Buckshot]

I used a jewlers saw to rough cut and then files and sandpaper to get to the final shape.

I scaned the design in and then cleaned it up a bit. I then printed it on self stick paper like shipping lables only bigger and stuck it to the blank of plexi.

And the rest is history!

Ned

[JD Alan]

That's some good figerin there Ned. Thanks!

[Ned Buckshot]

It works very well for me and I've been useing them for over 10 years!

I've used the same type pattern for other often duplicated pieces like a purse that I've easily made over a 100 of!

I know what you mean JD the sharp angled taper on the buckle end is tough, particularly the shoulders going back to the main belt width can be very frustrating!!

Ned

PS Happy Labor Day, hope ya don't have to labor any!

[Ned Buckshot]

Forgot to say when the template is ready to go I use REMOVABLE Scotch double stick tape to hold it in position ON THE BACK SIDE and cut and punch your way to a new belt end in just minutes.
If you would like instruction on how to polish edges of Plexi just ask.

Ned

[Professor Marvel]

In the ancient days of yore we made templates for the leather and woodworking shop (esp for complicated chair and table legs) from tempered masonite. At the time masonite was quite cheap compared to plexi and has the advantage that is does not crack as easily. Plexi on the other hand has the advantage of being clear, which allows one to see the leather or wood and adjust the template as desired.

yhs
prof marvel

[Farmer]

Heck JD,...I've used the ends of bottles,.....large coins,....if all else fails I mark it with a compass.

[JD Alan]

Farmer, that's just what I did. I laid some lines out on graph paper, figured out the curves I wanted, and used a spray can bottom for one set of curves, and a coffee can for another. From paper I went to card stock, then finally poster board. They are pretty solid now, and I've used then to lay out several belt ends.

I'm glad to see I've gone in the direction others have. Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it. JD

 

[knucklehead]

with all the information on this subject i just figured out that i have been doing it the hard way

i just measure in from each end of the belt 1/2 the measurement of the belt buckle slot needed.
mark this on both sides of the leather. mark two times on each side of the belt about 4" apart.
this way i can line up a straight edge down the belt.

then i determine how long the buckle piece needs to be before tapering down from 2".
then i draw the curve on the leather. then rough cut the curve and cut the straight line with a straight edge.
i then go to a drum sander and finalize the curve cuts.

see i told you i do it the hard way

but it works for me as i dont do that many belts with the taper down area. i much prefer the ranger belt styles.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy All


      When I do my tapered belts, I don't have a set rule, I either use an abrupt curve or a gradual curve, it has a lot to do, ( with me ) on the buckle I'm going to use , setting a curve is as simple as using a lid off a water bottle or other round object, like Farmer pointed out, you could even use a piece of 1/4 round wood molding, you just need to line up all the straights then draw in your curve, I try to design my tapered belts to be pleasing to the eye.   I put all my patterns on poster paper, and keep them in a file box to kepp them in good shape,I'm sure others will have more ideas on this.

                                             tEN wOLVES