Hand Sewing Button Holes

Delmonico · January 20, 2006, 02:33:39 PM

I use two methods of sewing button holes. For the first, drag out a factory made shirt and look at the button hole. You will see two bars of stitching going the length of the hole and two shorter ones on the end of the hole. This is how most folks make them. Simply take a washable tailors marker and mark your hole where you want it. Make it slightly longer the the diameter of the button, 1'16 to 3/32.

You now simply sew the up and down bars, kepping your stictching just on it's side of the line. Sew the bottom bars, cut open the hole and trim the threads.

Most of my button holes I cut open the hole first and go around the hole with a whip stitch, I make my stiches about a 1/16 of an inch apart the first time and then got back and fill it in nicely. This keeps the material from fraying. if I don't finish it right away. I cut my hole with a small sisiors, the one on a real Swiss Army Knife is perfect. This makes a neat little oval button hole and many folks who also sew have commented they like the looks.

I also often use an embroidery hoop when sewing button holes.

I'll try to see if I can get some pictures up soon. I've waited to long to tackle that project.

Silver Creek Slim · January 23, 2006, 01:33:59 PM

Thanks, Del. I'm going to be tackling a button hole for my suit pants soon.

Slim

Kentuckian · April 10, 2009, 10:40:08 PM

The proper Buttonhole Stitch:

http://www.ushist.com/general-information/stitch_p.htm

'Monterrey' Jack Brass · April 24, 2009, 03:46:32 AM

Here's a period reference scanned for online viewing from The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese De Dillmont initially published in 1884 and reprinted various times over the years since then.

Open this link and you'll see the directions/illustrations on pages 27 & 28:

http://books.google.com/books?id=2AaeVjLMKioC&dq=the+complete+encyclopedia+of+needlework&printsec=frontcover&source=bl&ots=RcEpuOv_a_&sig=DfmGvOQ-ySQ-PmwZ0ndRijmnCZw&hl=en&ei=_XrxSfzlCp_MM4Kbsa4P&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=6#PPA28,M1

YMH&OS,

Brass

Wild Billy Potts · April 26, 2009, 11:18:28 AM

While the sewing guides of the period often showed the bar tacked button holes for lighter materials, on all original garments I've viewed up close the keyhole shaped button hole was always used. I will add that I have only viewed two original shirts while everything else has been coats, vest and trowsers.

Delmonico · April 26, 2009, 11:20:58 AM

Thanks MJB and K, I'm pretty much self taught on sewing.

Wild Billy Potts · April 26, 2009, 06:00:54 PM

I forgot to mention that some of the original button holes I've seen were cigar shaped, without any tacking on the ends.

Forty Rod · August 15, 2009, 10:59:22 AM

Quote from: Delmonico on January 20, 2006, 02:33:39 PM

I also often use an embroidery hoop when sewing button holes.

I thought I was the only guy who still used a hoop for anything. They're handy for doing beading, too, but can be a bi--- for heavier leather. I ended up making two of different sizes just for that.

Wish my hands worked well enough for that small work these days.

Professor Marvel · August 15, 2009, 11:51:44 AM

Quote from: Forty Rod on August 15, 2009, 10:59:22 AM
I thought I was the only guy who still used a hoop for anything. They're handy for doing beading, too, but can be a bi--- for heavier leather. I ended up making two of different sizes just for that.

Wish my hands worked well enough for that small work these days.

My appendages do not seem up to the task either. I have a hard time just picking up beads on a needle.
You folks that can "do" beadwork amaze me no end. The few times I tried I consistantly break threads, break beads, mangle the material, somehow mismatch beads and I end up with bulges and stacks and.....

The absolute worst part - the "completed" pathetic bundle of beads ended up with a rats-nest layer of thread on the backside that almost doubles the thickness of the material in use!

This in spite of hands on instruction, coaching, and supervision from my Lovely Spousal Unit who can "just whip out" lazy stitch, peyote stitch, bead weaving, loom work, and is working on learning quill work (not her favorite)

Beadworkers, I salute you.
yhs
Prof Marvel

Professor Marvel · August 15, 2009, 11:52:54 AM

strange things happening in computerland...

Forty Rod · August 17, 2009, 03:41:49 PM

Quote from: Professor Marvel on August 15, 2009, 11:51:44 AM
My appendages do not seem up to the task either. I have a hard time just picking up beads on a needle.
You folks that can "do" beadwork amaze me no end. The few times I tried I consistantly break threads, break beads, mangle the material, somehow mismatch beads and I end up with bulges and stacks and.....

The absolute worst part - the "completed" pathetic bundle of beads ended up with a rats-nest layer of thread on the backside that almost doubles the thickness of the material in use!

This in spite of hands on instruction, coaching, and supervision from my Lovely Spousal Unit who can "just whip out" lazy stitch, peyote stitch, bead weaving, loom work, and is working on learning quill work (not her favorite)

Beadworkers, I salute you.

I can honestly say that it takes a LOT of practice...obviously a lot more than I've put into it over the years. I haven't yet mastered get one bead in a row straight yet.
yhs
Prof Marvel