Episode 3, the last slide!

[Slowhand Bob]

The last slide and we just do everything the same as the earlier slides up to the point of preparing for the cartridge loops.  Guys I got a bit confused in transferring and measuring the 4-5oz loop material so if those who do this regularly would check my measurements against theirs and let us know if I messed up, it would really be appreciated.  What I thought was going to be one size turned out to be the other or vicy versy or nuther!  For the three round version I use the same spacing on the slide body and just size the lighter loop material according to caliber.  I would not do this for longer runs of cartridge loops than this.

[Slowhand Bob]

I will go ahead and post the finished trio of slides.  Forgive me for not retreiving my badge for another photo op but it was up at the house and my feets were all wore out.  I will show my fast and dirty method of hand sewing cartridge loops on this project but if you are a purist you might want to take a Pepto Bismol before oing on!

[Slowhand Bob]

In the first shot you can see where I marked the actual sewing lines using the pattern for layout (see the heavy dots).  Notice that there are diagonals connecting the vertical lines, this calls for a continuous stitch, rather than cutting and starting over for each loop.  Kinda looks like a series of three connected capitol Ns.

In the second picture you see that I have put a stitch groove on just the three diagonals, top point to bottom point.  Do not be scary with these cuts as we want our thread to lay deep here and the back is good heavy 8-9oz leather to support the deep groove.

[Slowhand Bob]

In this next step I performed my grandstand play, I punched the stitch holes.  These stitch punches are sized perfectly for this job when using 3/4" inch loop material as cut from my little Speedy Stripper.  I get four perfectly spaced holes while using just one tool and drop down one hole and repunch to get the quick fifth hole in place and perfectly lined up.  Notice that I punch on hard plastic so as not to get excessivly deep/larger holes as can happen with the rubber poundo material.  I do need to touch these holes up a bit with my old faithful awl to finsh penetration.  This finishes the slide portion and we will start the loop strap next. 

[Slowhand Bob]

Using the little stitch guide included on the pattern I mark off the correct length of 4-5oz loop material and cut it to length with a 3/4" strap end punch.  I mark my individual loop spacing with a pencil and square which prepares me for punching the stitch holes here.

Using the same four hole punch here, I am able to get my matching stitch alignment for combining the project pieces.  In the photo you see how I overhang the punch to do this.

 

[Slowhand Bob]

Though I will show a couple of pictures of the sewing in progress, this is not a sewing tutorial and the rest is basic.  I started on the left side and began my stitching in the center hole, sewing down.  At the bottom I reversed directions and sewed to the top  and then diagonally back to the bottom, under the loop material.  As you start each new cartridge loop you will need to pinch the excess material into alignment under the thumb while getting the stitches into place.

The next shot shows us almost through and if you look close you can see that I do skip some stitches on the hidden diagonal lines BUT keep them tight and in the bottom of the groove.  I'll add one more post with a photo of the back showing the skip pattern there.

[Slowhand Bob]

And the final one showing the back of the completed project.  Above the stitching you see the fold line that was skived with a 1/4" French skive.  Sorry the photos are not better but I have never been accused of being a photographer.  The thread you see here is much heavier than the job calls for but I wanted you to be able to see the stitches better.  If I can be of any help explaining things better just let me know.

[White Buffalo Chip]

Howdy ShB,
I really like the look of
that 'skip-a-stitch', too
bad its hidden.Great work
pard.

WBC

[JD Alan]

Once again Slowhand Bob, thanks very much for all of your efforts. I'm sure you're not surprised that I have a couple of questions. Do you know the size of the four prong punch you are using there? It looks like an Osbonre, certainly not a Tandy!

4-5 oz leather for the cartridge loops sounds heavy to me, just based on using it for the shotgun pouches. Are you thinning that down, or is 4-5 the way to go? I have no experience with these loops, but I'm going to after this!

Thanks again Robby, you Rock!

[Slowhand Bob]

WBC, sewing bullet loops by hand got to be a real challenge as I got older.  After a couple of clicker surgeries and the onset of various joint conditions I finally had to get a machine but those little punches did help make hand sewing bearable for a while longer.
One of the best exhibitions of hand sewing bullet loops is probably on the video produced by Dusty Johnson.  He also covers a really clever hidden skip stitch that is more traditional than what I do.  I rate it as an excellent beginners intro and there are a few techniques that more experienced leather workers might be interested in.

Morning JD, just enjoying that last small cup of coffee before hitting the wall again.  As usual, a one day plumbing job is dragging on forever.  There is this darn tiny little brass ring nut that holds the drain pipe to the base of the bathroom sink and it is totally frozen locked with green gunk.  Just when I thought I had it broken loose I realized that the whole assembly was turning and I am one hand short of being able to hold the pipe and turn the nut!!!!  The wife asked if she could help BUT I am afraid that our days of being able to squeeze into that small a cabinet are far past.  But I digress.

Remember, the weight (and even width) of the loop material is somewhat a personal choice of the maker and not always a right or wrong situation.  Sure you can get to heavy or to light for the need BUT there is room for choice between the extremes.  What I use is 2-3oz for .22rf  or .32 straight wall cases, the 4-5oz is used for most other larger cartridges and 6-7oz is used for my shotshell loops or double pouches.  It seems to be very common for makers to use 8-9oz leather for shot shell (loops or pouches) and large rifle calibers but I have not found that need yet.  Remember that you can gain strength by going wider with your loop material to an extent and if you go heavier it will require opening up the pattern to accept the extra bulk created.  SO, you get to be right and I will be wrong if that is your desire here and there will be fokes who can back us both up.      Now back to the toilet for this poor soul.     

[JD Alan]

Robby, I believe you've got to have some experience with something to be right or wrong, and I don't fall into the category with bullet loops. I'm just a pilgrim in search of an idea of how to go about this stuff. I'm convinced (and others who visit this forum regularly are as well no doubt) that I am the least capable person in the world of figuring this stuff out.

My brain seems to work fine in some areas but when it comes to this sort of thing I am as far from being a natural as one could be. That's one reason I so appreciate you and other guys taking so much time and energy to explain things to me again and again, when you could be doing fun things like plumbing    

[Slowhand Bob]

Well JD, I personally feel that making bullet loops is one of the tougher jobs we do.  For long runs it is imperative that everything be laid out precisely and the actual sewing is very tedious.  Well talk about aggravating, I finished my proto four and five last week and need to head on out to a shoot with them.  They are not very pretty but they will get tested today.  Holsters with a sheet metal skeleton!