open top questions

[arch]

hello eveyone,
New to the opentop world, got me a 72 opentop just about a month ago, and had some questions or you folks. First of all i have noticed wear on the cylinder, just past the notches, sorry im no fimilar with all the terms. I was wonderng if this is normal for revolvers or if there is some sanding that needs to be done? Also I'm thinking about getting a smaller barrel for the gun, now no where on the gun or the gun box does it say cimarron, just uberti, however on the recipt it says cimarron, am I safe to assume buying a barrel from cimarron is okay? And as a side question, if i am correct the "man with no name" gun has a opentop frame, so is it possible to just buy the barrel assembly seperate? Also i believe i read somewhere on this forum that barrels bought through cimarron come with the front sight already attached, can anyone comfim this? Last question (and probably a dumb question at that) my ot is .38 spl, it won't be able to handle .38+p will it?
phew...hats off to anyone who read and can respond to all those.
cheers
arch

[Major 2]

First and Foremost   38+p  NO !
you can shoot Cowboy 38 longs or 38 Spcl. no problems... forget the hot loads.

The wear ring you are speaking of is caused from a dragging bolt when you don't pull the hammer to full cock, rather you allow it to drop from half cock.
When you cock the piece pull it all the way to cock, don't lower from half cock
...it is common in Rugers (sometime called the Ruger Ring) because of their timing design , but by no means unique to them.

Uberti is the Maker.... Cimarron is the Importer..it may or in some cases may not be stamped Cimarron.
It could just as well be marked Taylor, Stoeger or nothing at all.
Cimarron may have a shorter barrel in stock , or you might give VTI a call 

" so is it possible to just buy the barrel assembly seperate?" yes and no.... yes if you are buying in the same model ...

72 OT barrels  for 72 OT frame...
....but be aware for example ....Type II will not interchange with OT

[Leverluver]

Not exactly sure what you mean by "just past the notches".  If the "wear" is in line with the notches, it is as Major2 says.  But if it is forward of the notches, it is most likely from burrs left from tapping the screw holes for either the tirgger/bolt spring screw or the forward screw for the trigger guard.  My Type II had those burrs and put a nasty scratch in the cylinder with just one rotation.  I took the barrel and cylinder off and filed down the offending burrs and all was well.  I'll need to reblue the scratch though.

[Flint]

Other than not going through full cock to lower the hammer (which will lock up some guns), the ring is caused by early bolt drop, and the bolt's wing should be adjusted for tension on the hammer cam.  If it doesn't respond to the wing's spring tension against the cam, then you need a new bolt.   Rugers suffer the cylinder ring because Ruger apparently deliberately drops the bolt early to ensure lockup.