Victorian Men's grooming

[TMMonroe]

I'm awaiting today the arrival of a bottle of Eau de Qiunine hair tonic from Pinaud and was wondering if anyone else here enjoys using what would be considered archaic men's grooming products such as would have been common, more or less, in the Nineteenth Century.

Who owns and uses straight razors, mugs and brushes. Who takes advantage of some of the traditional aftershaves still found on the market? Talc or no talc after shaving? Wax the moustachios up or down? Muttonchops or Dundreary whiskers, anyone?

It would be both interesting and instructive to hear any advice and insight on these products and their uses from some of the old hands.

[Don Nix]

I still use a mug and brush. There is nothing more soothing in the morning than the hot lather on your face. IMy Dad taught me to shave using a straight razor and I used one,Although i cheated and used a batbers razor with disposable blades until I went into the Army.
I had a big Handle bar mustache for years but recently grew a beard but i used Pinauds  wax daily for years.
A funny thing,
My daughter opened a beauty shop down at Mccleod Tx. its a small community and she has the only tonsorial establishment around so all the men get their hair cuts there as well as the ladies.
the first day one of the old men came into the shop and told her she had to have tair tonic and talc.
She called and asked what to buy and since I ouldnt remeber the names I had her call my barber who was in his late 70s.
She got the supplies and now when you get a hair cut  rhere it takes you back to when I was a kid ,yo not only look better  and you smell better.

[St. George]

Much of this has already been talked about - especially the 'shaving' part of it all.

Try this, for a change of pace...

St. George's Notes XXIV - Victorian-Era Men's Hairstyles...
« on: January 03, 2006, 01:00:48 PM »     

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A critical part of creating your Impression is how you wear your clothing and gear and how correct to the period it all is, since it needs to look 'natural',   and it should be able to be photographed in Black and White and look as though it belongs with those older pictures as seen in reference books.

For the most part - acquiring the gear is easy.
Expensive, sometimes - but easy enough when you're focused.

Here's some information to enhance that 'Look' - once you're done putting it all together - by a bit of judicious personal grooming to top it all off.

'Shave and a Haircut - Two Bits'...

Prior to the Victorian Era, males 'in general' maintained cleanly shaven faces - albeit with some difficulty - given the fact than shaving technology of the period was in its infancy - the Gillette Safety Razor not making an appearance until after 1904.

With the mid-eighteen hundreds came a widespread shift toward facial adornment in a wide multitude of styles.

Though the facial hair 'movement' of the Victorian era faded with the conclusion of the Nineteenth Century, it was a fad that affected nearly all men of the age.

Facial hair, ranging from bushy mutton-chops to carefully waxed mustaches, 'defined' the appearance of mid to late-nineteenth century men, and created a divide between boyhood and manhood

In pictures and photographs from the era, it is rare to find a male - past the age of manhood - depicted without facial hair in some way, shape or form.

As the century continued, the preferred style of facial hair grew progressively longer, bushier, and more pronounced, but it remained 'stylish'for men to wear facial hair of all sizes and descriptions .

Hairstyle Terminology of the Era:

Mustachio - an exceptionally luxuriant moustache

Beard - the hair on a man's chin, cheeks, and throat

Side-Whiskers - unusually long whiskers worn on the side of a man's face 

Muttonchops - side whiskers that are narrow at the temple, broad along the lower cheek or jawline, and separated by a shaven chin

Moustache - the hair growing on the upper lip, especially when cultivated and groomed

Small moustaches and short sideburns were coming into vogue by the time Victoria took the throne.
Prior to this, the good Victorian-era gentleman was clean shaven.

During the American Civil War - full curly hair was worn in a crest shape by men, who brilliantly brushed the hair back or forwards in order to create a curling front lock or a cowlick.
With these hairstyles, side and middle parts were common.

Hairstyles would  often emulate those worn by popular figures of the time - thus sideburns really began to take off in this period, growing longer and bushier as the decades progressed and were initially known as 'Burnsides' - after General Ambrose Burnside.
                             
Full beards became all the rage for males, and by the 1860's the 'Lincoln' look - a clipped chin beard without a moustache - became popular.

Also seen were Spade beards, and the more 'rounded' Imperials.
Men could decide if a moustache was the right compliment to their beard choice.

During this period, as with the previous century, hair was held in place with Macassar Oil, slightly perfumed.
On the other hand - working men who worked in hard labor jobs probably avoided it, as it had a reputation for dripping down into the eyes when one was sweating...

1865-1890:

Thanks due in large part to the rigors of Campaigning and the attendant 'lessened' personal hygiene suffered by soldiers on both sides - creating an assortment of various personal menageries - shorter hair became fashionable with men, although the side and middle parts remained.
By the 1870's, parts were expanded to extend from the forehead to the nape of the neck.

In town - Pompadours were actually worn by some men, particularly those who were wealthy and spent their days in more leisurely pursuits than the working man.

Muttonchop beards and a beard growing well under the chin became fashionable, although this kind of facial hair required quite a bit of maintenance.

The late 1870's and 1880's saw the arrival of the tell-tale Handlebar Moustache - the long, drooping moustaches worn without a beards.
Most often seen on Dragoons and Cavalrymen, initially - as a mark of distinction and indicator of an 'Old Campaigner'.

1890–1900:

Thanks to the 'civilization' of the Frontier giving a  closer number of towns and thus - 'Tonsorial Parlors'  - the clean-shaven look was "in" by the end of the century, with the distinguished gentleman sporting a smooth face.

Middle parts were also popular, although the more 'classy' man wore his a little to the left of center.

Moustaches shrunk considerably in this period, and were often very small and held in place with wax.
Sideburns were still popular, although considerably shorter than they had been previously.
Muttonchops and pointed chin beards remained however - giving men a great variety of styles to chose from.

Older men - most likely those who had had wonderful, long moustaches during the previous decades - adopted the 'Walrus' moustache - huge, bushy, drooping moustaches that covered much of their lower faces.

At any rate - whiskers of all types adorned the faces of Victorian-era men, from thin side-whiskers to full, bushy beards in accompaniment with thick moustaches.



Scouts Out!

[Professor Marvel]

I too have several shaving mugs and brushes, and a brass shaving stand to hold my heavy solid-brass handled safety razor, all gifts from my Lovely Spousal Unit. I have two good leather strops and several vintage straight razors, mainly with horn handles, all collected from various junque shoppes.

For many years Long ago in Minnesota I shaved daily with the straight razors, the most difficult bit was always shaving my upper lip which for one year I was required to do as a volunteer re-enactor at Historic Fort Snelling. According to the historians, privates in 1814 were to be clean-shaven, without beards or mustaches, but sideburns were allowed. Unfortunately except for a bit of mustache, my facial hair (including sideburns) is as pathetically wispy as an elderly Chinaman's . My First Nation Friends often joke that I should just pluck them pathetic chin hairs right out :-)

Then one day whilst shaving away, for some reason unbeknownst to me,  I nearly slit my own throat. After that I rather lost my nerve, So the straight razors went back in their boxes on the shelf and I picked up the good old vintage Gillette Safety razor, which I have discovered to be aptly named :-) . Haven't touched the straight razors since. Altho I must confess that when rushed I will use a disposable in the shower.

yhs, with throat intact
prof marvel

[Major 2]

Though I have worn a full jaw line beard for 40 years ( brief interludes with a van dyke or on one or two occasions mustache only ) I use a pure Badger brush & cup for throat and cheek areas, have used a Straight razor ( but left it by accident in a Hotel room ) a safety razor is now employed in it's stead.
I have a set of horse hair brushes, but alas my 4" wide part see's little need for their use anymore  

[TMMonroe]

Thanks everyone for your great responses! Please keep them coming!

As an aside, I got my hair tonic and aftershave yesterday. The Eau deQuinine is less greasy than the Vaseline Hair Tonic I have used for years. I am quite satisfied with it. The only thing is that I will have to become used to my hair actually having a noticeable fragrance now! The Lime Sec aftershave was a pleasant surprise. Even my immensely practical family members admitted to liking it.

[Forty Rod]

Aside from bay rhum, I don't, but I had a 'stache when I lived in Illinois and there was a barber shop in Peoria that would blacken and set a moustache for a half buck. 

They also did spot cleaning, sewed on buttons and patched small holes in clothing, pressed pants while you waited, had six or seven shoe shine boys, and cleaned and blocked hats.

I miss that place.

[Doc Cuervo]

I used the bay rum for several years but alas, my Lady doesn't like it. Last year a Buddy  and I rode our Motorcycles to Bents Fort Historical site and I picked up a bottle of "Florida Water" cologne which seems to be more acceptable. I sport a goatee and shoulder length hair. I figure if I can still grow it at my age, I might as well.

[TMMonroe]

What is it with bay Rum and modern women? It's my standard aftershave, been that way for years...then one day a few months ago my wife tells me she never liked it. After all these years of saying nothing!

I'll still continue to wear it, if only because I read that Philip Marlowe wore it in one of Raymond Chandler's novels, and he's a cool dude.

[St. George]

You might try asking modern women...

I did, one time - and was told that Bay Rum reminded them of their Great-Grandfathers...

More women than not preferred a 'clean' scent of shampoo, soap and shaving cream - and little more than that.

They looked at some of the scents as trying to cover up hygiene problems - like wearing a baseball cap continually indicates baldness or dirty hair - or both.

A recurring phrase in older novels when referring to the bad guy or ne-er-do-well is that of 'reeking of Bay Rum...' - so maybe that was the same effect it was having on our Grandmothers - way back when...

That Marlowe wore it means that it was fine in the '40's - but he was fictional.

Your body's chemistry may not react the same as that fictional character's and emits a 'different' scent to other olfactory senses - like 'Axe Body Spray' does, when it makes the average 15-year-old smell like a Seattle whore on Navy Day.

My advice is that if you want to wear a scent - have her pick it out, and you'll both be pleased.

There are a number of the old-time scents out there that are currently made, and if 'she' has a say-so - she'll find you one.

Give it a try - you'll reach a more harmonious outcome.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Rufus Cogburn SASS 60020]

I have a funny story about using victorian grooming aids.  I have used mustache wax my entire adult life, but have found it harder to come by. Recently I found some good wax on eBay, but before that, I would get it at drug stores.

I was in Walmart one day and remembered I was out of wax, so I decided to see if they had any.  It was kinda hot or miss at that particular store.  So, I was searching the shaving aisle and noticed a young woman straightening up the shelves.  I figured she would have no idea what I wanted, so, I searched in silence.

Finally, she asked if she could help me find something.  I asked, "Do you have any mustache wax?"  She looked puzzled and said, "Mustache wax?!? Why don't you just shave it off ?"  It took me a second to figure out she thought I wanted to give my lip a bikini wax.  After several minutes of histerical laughing, I dried my eyes and explained what the stuff was used for.

I don't bother with the dicsount store, anymore.  I just re-order from eBay.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

                         Now that's fuuuuunnnnnyy


                             tEN wOLVES